I had two choices to get to my safari resort in the Western Cape: Rent a car, watch Cape Town’s Table Mountain get smaller in my rearview mirror and navigate the stunning South African countryside myself, or let someone do the driving for me and bask in the scenery without the stress of having to remember to drive on the left-hand side of the road. Not surprisingly, I chose the latter.

My resort-arranged car service picked me up from my hotel at 9 a.m. Before I knew it, I was out of the buzzy cosmopolitan city and in an entirely different world. After a three-hour drive, we arrived at Sanbona’s visitor check-in gate where I gave the attendant my reservation information and signed a waiver. Sanbona Wildlife Reserve in the Western Cape is at the foot of the Warmwaterberg Mountains in the heart of the Little Karoo, one of South Africa’s semi-desert regions. It boasts more than 133,000 acres, making it the size of Singapore, and encompasses plains, the Cape Fold Mountains, indigenous flora and fauna and San rock art that dates back 3,500 years.

During another 45 minutes on a dirt road we passed the dramatic Cape Fold Mountains and Sanbona’s three other luxe properties: Sanbona Explorer, a seasonal luxury tent camp with walking expeditions; Dwyka Tented Lodge, with nine glamping tents with private decks and heated hot tubs; and Gondwana Family Lodge, perfect for families to stretch out and with a Kids on Safari program with educational and recreational activities. I even spotted a zebra in the distance.

When I arrived in the early afternoon, I was welcomed by the friendly faces of several staff members who offered me a refreshing towel and a sparkling wine cocktail. My luggage was delivered to my open-plan suite, whose tranquil, neutral décor certainly reflected a safari vibe. My bedroom included a gas fireplace and sitting room area that looked onto the property and the mountains in the background. For more fresh air I was invited to lounge on my patio, though I was warned not to keep my sliding glass door open or a baboon might just make himself at home. The en-suite bathroom had a spacious shower and freestanding bathtub; however, its stopper was missing and in its place was a laminated card reminding guests of South Africa’s extreme water shortage. His and hers tiled showers outside were a perfect consolation.

Since it was a warm and sunny late winter day, September in the Southern Hemisphere, I enjoyed a three-course lunch at a table outside. The menu is ever-changing and lunch may include dishes like spicy chicken livers, Mexican chicken schnitzel or marinated pork skewers with stir-fried vegetables. All meals as well as several cocktails and aperitifs are included with your stay.

Mid-afternoon, donned in my olive and khaki, I embarked on my first game drive with the take-along species checklist from my room in tow. Each night’s stay includes two, three-hour game drives in an open-sided Land Rover. My guide Alwyn was an incredible wealth of knowledge and I picked up fascinating factoids about so many animals. During the first of my four drives we saw hartebeest and rhinos, and a herd of elephants crossed right in front of us. It was truly amazing. Though it’s technically an “animal reserve,” Sanbona is so expansive it feels like the open bush. It’s unlikely you’ll encounter a fence on any of the game drives during your stay. This region is also malaria-free and requires no vaccinations, which makes planning a trip worry-free.

When it got closer to sundown we parked and partook in the South African ritual known as the sundowner: snacks and an aperitif, which at Tilney includes a choice of wine, beer, whiskey or gin and tonic.

Once the sun was low in the sky it got chilly, so I was happy to return to the living room and sip a choice of Port, or sherry-like fortified wine, or Amarula, the country’s answer to Bailey’s Irish Cream. Dinner is enjoyed at your discretion and again includes three courses of dishes like braised springbok shank or crispy pork belly. An impressive menu of local wines, including Chenin Blanc, Pinotage and Bordeaux blends, becomes even more special when you realize you won’t be able to get most of these bottles back home.

This part of South Africa offers some of the best stargazing in the world; after dinner, I joined other guests and our guide to peruse the night sky. Weather depending, you can see the Milky Way and the Southern Cross; the clouds were rolling in that night, but we did spot several of Jupiter’s moons and the rings of Saturn.

I returned to my room to find the fire thoughtfully burning, which made it all too easy to curl up and fall asleep — as did the fact that the morning wake-up call comes at 6 a.m. I sipped a steaming pre-breakfast mug of nutty Rooibos tea and a muffin, then headed out to spot more wildlife, including giraffes, zebras, Cape buffalo and lions on the prowl.

After breakfast I booked a facial at the Relaxation Retreat — they also offer body scrubs and various massages with Africology products — and soon it was time to don my hat and grab the camera. Tilney Manor was truly a unique experience that blended the best of wine, cuisine, luxury and safari.

Tilney Manor, Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, South Africa

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
Goedgeloof, South Africa
tel 27 28 572 1824