Unlike modern saunas, the temazcal (the Nahuatl word for “house of heat”) variety is usually a domed structure, representing the womb of Mother Earth. The idea is you go in and come out reborn from the experience — sans the birth trauma, of course.

Spa and temazcal © LODGE & SPA AT PICO BONITO

While temazcals are typically constructed with volcanic rock, The Lodge & Spa at Pico Bonito appeared to take some modern design liberties on the dome. For instance, the entry was through a large, thick wooden door that reminded me of the kind I had seen across colonial Central America when I lived there just a year earlier. Antigua, Guatemala; and Suchitoto, El Salvador, came to mind.

We removed our white robes (with swimsuits underneath) and were guided in carefully, one by one, shuffling in backwards to show our respect. Of course, if you show too much respect, you might come dangerously close to the hot pile of rocks in the middle, as I did. From there the instructions were simple: Sit and inhale the vapors through your nose and relax. As we did this, the door was closed behind us, shutting out the evening light.

Our group took turns pouring water over the hot rocks and taking the three deep breaths while carefully hovering above the steam. If we felt so inclined, which I did, there was a small bowl with “therapeutic lavender-infused mud” from the area. When rubbed on skin, it becomes soap-like and runs smoothly across the body.

None of this is usually my cup of tea, but I have to say I loved it. Within a short time I had a glistening layer of sweat and the relaxed, rhythmic heartbeat of someone in deep sleep. I’d lost track of time when the moment came to throw our robes back on and shuttle out of the sauna. Then it was onward to the outdoor shower to wash away the sweat and mud.