Tahiti is a laid-back land which drew painter Paul Gauguin, author Herman Melville and actor Marlon Brando, among many others, to soak in the sensorial pleasures and ever-changing light in this idyllic island locale. It’s not surprising the mere mention of Tahiti is enough to elicit swoons from Americans. Tahiti refers both to the largest island in French Polynesia as well as its 118 sister islands. I explored a few of the centrally located Society Islands (Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora and Taha’a) in this Garden of Eden with year-round tropical climate (devoid of poisonous snakes or insects) and took it upon myself to relax in the spas, which is almost a requirement of any visit.

Think juicy pineapple and fragrant grated coconut. We are not talking about piña coladas but some of the tasty ingredients becoming increasingly popular in French Polynesian spas. You may be scrubbed with black sand in Tahiti, wrapped with white tiare flowers in Bora Bora or luxuriate along with your special someone, covered in fresh coconut, on Moorea.

On my first day in Tahiti — its sparkling sand referred to as “Cupid’s dust” — I lost my watch and was reminded time slows down in a land associated with no stress. During a spa treatment, as I felt like a combination of Earth mother and Queen of the Pacific, my therapist explained, “Polynesians are close to nature and don’t like stress; they are very never-mind.”

While taking part in a canoe extravaganza in a double outrigger decked in greens and colorful flowers on Tahiti, I traded in my savvy New Yorker attitude for that nevermind philosophy, admiring the turquoise waters. After the boating jaunt, I sampled tasty tidbits of breadfruit, mango, poi, papaya, pineapple, watermelon and coconut.

In this land where Tahitian cultured pearls are the largest export, I discovered the Robert Wan Pearl Museum, pondering pearls from historical, mythological and philosophical perspectives. It’s the place to view the largest pearl in the world as well as a pearl bikini, and learn about this symbol of immortality used medicinally to treat madness, as an antidote to poison and, according to Francis Bacon, a potion to combat the aging process. Those enamored of pearls included Cleopatra, Charlemagne, Catherine de Medici and Queen Elizabeth I, but Tahitian lore claims pearls are “living with you.” They may shine or die, depending on whether your outlook is positive or negative.

It is easy to feel positive on these islands where flowers abound (red hibiscus, golden trumpets and lavender orchids), adorning everything from outrigger canoes to homes and hotels; locals believe the sweet fragrance of flowers keeps bad spirits away. Both men and women wear the delicate white tiare (Tahitian gardenia) — in back of the left ear, indicating their heart is taken, or behind the right ear, sending a message they are unmarried and available. But it was the enticing aroma of vanilla, the only edible fruit of the orchid family and a plant treated as royalty, which particularly drew me in.

French Polynesia is known for growing the champagne of vanilla beans. Throughout this honeymoon paradise, barefoot therapists massage you with aromatic Tahitian vanilla oil and resorts serve delicious vanilla crème brûlée. You can get up close and personal with vanilla on the island of Taha’a, which, according to legend, was detached by a sacred eel possessed by the spirit of a princess.

A garden safari tour in an open-air four-wheel-drive vehicle decorated with oversized ginger blossoms led to a vanilla plantation on the island of Taha’a. En route with Dave’s VIP Tours, discover the jungle pharmacy: Lime thorns are used to pierce ears, basil protects the home, the juice of the banana trees stops bleeding, and elephant’s ear philodendron chases away bad luck. At the plantation, the prized vanilla beans are hand-pollinated in a ceremony called “the marriage of vanilla.” Then they are massaged by hand. Why not? This is a paradise for everyone, even vanilla.

There are 200 species of vanilla in other parts of the world such as Central America, where hummingbirds and Melipona bees pollinate the plant. But Tahitian vanilla, considered the best and most expensive in the world, requires a labor-intensive process involving crossbreeding of different plants, drying for one to four months on sun-drenched drying racks and storing in a dry, dark location. At La Maison de la Vanille, five family members work 800 vanilla plants. It takes three years for the vanilla to produce flowers, which live for only one day. At French Polynesian resorts, many dishes are infused with this delicate scent; it is drizzled over watermelon balls, adorns papaya slices and is served in a cream over pineapple.

Vanilla gazpacho © Jon H. Davis and Iris Brooks of NORTHERN LIGHTS STUDIO

Vanilla — the most popular flavoring for sweetened foods — is not reserved for dessert. A decadent, cold vanilla gazpacho is served over roasted pineapple at the InterContinental Resort on the island of Moorea, and a variety of fish dishes, including mahi-mahi with a green vanilla sauce, are available at the excellent Lotus Restaurant at the InterContinental Tahiti Resort.

The sound of the lagoon lapping against the stilts of the thatched, overwater pavilion accompanies the tasty rock lobster carpaccio with turnip slices doused with a vanilla cream sauce, pineapple juice and a hint of rosemary at the deluxe Taha’a private island Relais & Châteaux property. While the food in general is excellent at this resort, the room-service breakfast is spectacularly delivered by two musicians paddling a canoe. A vocal serenade accompanied by a ukulele player announces their arrival at your water villa. Fresh-squeezed juices, real coconut milk for your coffee, perfectly ripened mangos and cereal served in a coconut shell on the deck are a great way to start a relaxing day on Taha’a, along with a balancing tarumi massage honoring the body, spirit and soul.

Room service breakfast serenade © Jon H. Davis and Iris Brooks of NORTHERN LIGHTS STUDIO

A visit to a French Polynesian spa is about more than luxuriating in a feel-good treatment. It’s a place to learn about the curative properties of the local ingredients like the noni fruit (the size of a potato, but not for eating), whose leaves help regenerate skin cells after cuts, while the juice is an immune system builder and acts as an aid to the digestive system. Beyond the health benefits, the noni roots contain a pigment used for creating yellow tapa cloth, a beaten bark made from woven coconut fiber.

Painted textiles, carved wood and woven baskets are part of the traditional craft demonstrations at The Tiki Village Theater on Moorea. Great sunset views and rum punch are a prelude to a dynamic show featuring fire-throwing dancers accompanied by traditional drummers. In an outdoor amphitheater, cameras click incessantly, focusing on a cast who delicately sway their hips in time to the island music and legends of the land.

Some prefer feeding sharks, snorkeling or surfing on the island of Moorea, nicknamed “the Nature Island.” I experienced my first helmet dive, allowing me to walk underwater while wearing my own glasses underneath a large helmet (think Jules Verne) connected to an air compressor on the ship above. Breathing normally, I felt a sense of wonder while viewing coral and a variety of exotic fish: blue damsel, large jackfish, colorful Picasso triggerfish, as well as huge manta rays that softly brushed against me. Ambling along the sandy ocean bottom in clear water on a helmet dive with Aquablue is a not-to-be-missed experience.

It was hard to depart from Moorea, leaving behind magical helmet dives and the extraordinary Hélène Spa, a sanctuary with fresh, local ingredients, but Bora Bora — dubbed “the most beautiful island in the world” by James Michener — was calling. Bora Bora (translated as “clapping” or “first born”) is associated with rejuvenation; some claim it is “nature’s botox.” I arrived by helicopter, and the water was so blue I erroneously suspected the windows were tinted, revealing basalt peaks soaring above a multicolored lagoon. These aren’t the only magical windows in French Polynesia.

The villas in many resorts are perched on stilts standing over the water. Sometimes they are equipped with a window in the floor, usually at the foot of the bed, looking directly into the sea. Through this in-room ocean aquarium, I watched puffers, sea cucumbers, floating seaweed, jackfish and more, feeling no need to change the channel on this reality show.

Sometimes, after lots of activity, kicking back is about enjoying your overwater bungalow and doing nothing at all. It’s easy to understand why honeymooners flock here. Panoramic views in French Polynesia reveal a palette of blue and green hues in jewel tones from sapphire and turquoise to jade and emerald. I climbed down a private ladder for a quick swim in the azure water, hoping to bring home a piece of this never-mind society. Then, intoxicated by the sweet air and sound of birdsong, I let go as the breeze and fragrances enveloped me.

Tahiti Info to Go

French Polynesia, commonly known as Tahiti, is approximately eight hours by plane from Los Angeles. Commercial flights to the islands arrive at Faa’ā International Airport (PPT) in Papeete, the capital and main gateway of Tahiti. Travel to neighboring islands is short and convenient via plane or ferry. Arrange transport to your resort in advance with your travel company or resort.

Where to Stay in Tahiti

InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa Set between mountains and a lagoon on the northwest coast of Moorea, swim to the bar or enjoy the exceptional Hélène Spa, a sanctuary incorporating local fruits and oils in revitalizing treatments. P.O. Box 1019, Moorea $$$$

The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort This resort truly evokes paradise — from the saltwater private lagoon with native fish and stingrays, to the overwater bungalows and modern 5-star amenities. Motu Ome’e BP 506, Bora Bora $$$$

Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa Opened in 2002, this is the ultimate hideaway, located on a private motu islet. Villas blend Polynesian traditions with refined elegance in a Relais & Châteaux property. Taha’a Island $$$$

Restaurants in Tahiti

Hiti Mahana At the Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti, this waterfront restaurant offers international cuisine and themed buffets overlooking a black-sand beach. Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti, Lafayette Beach, Arue, Tahiti $$$

Le Lotus Restaurant An inventive menu (citrus of scallops and crab meat, snail ravioli and Tahitian vanilla soufflé) is served at the InterContinental Tahiti Resort, only two miles from the international airport. InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, Faa’a–, Tahiti $$$

The Ohiri Restaurant Le Taha’a Island Resort has an excellent island-chic restaurant. Whether you are in the mood for lobster or lighter fare, top it off with a noteworthy vanilla crème brûlée. Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa, Taha’a Island $$$$

Read more about Hélene Spa.