The walled Old Town district in the middle of Tallinn, Estonia, is a well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage site where restaurants, shops and art galleries are built into the lower floors of 13th-century buildings. Although daytrippers swarm Old Town during the peak summer season, one restaurant remains an undiscovered gem: an out-of the-way private home where Priit Kuusik and his wife, Beatrice, welcome guests to nAnO (www.nanohouse.ee).
Reservations are mandatory at the three-year-old venue with seating for six on the private patio and another three tables (seating up to 12 total) inside. You may want to scout the location early in the day: It’s marked only by a tiny sign outside an unassuming doorway at the corner of a narrow street. I stepped inside to find Beatrice at the kitchen table helping her young son with his homework. Priit was standing near the stove, making soup for the day’s lunch. Dozens of magazine covers featuring Beatrice, a former model and actress, lined a kitchen wall.
My companion and I sat on the patio, shaded by trees and umbrellas. There is no set menu. Instead, Priit describes the day’s offerings — locally sourced food that might include thick split pea soup, beef Stroganoff with roasted potatoes and salad or freshly caught pikeperch. Dessert might be chocolate mousse one day and Pavlova chiffon pie. Wine is available.
This simple hideaway is an inexpensive find where the quality of the food, the eclectic atmosphere, and the casual and friendly owners add up to a unique Estonian experience. (Sulevimagi, 5, Old Town, tel 555 22522)
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