FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Saipan And Guam: Twice As Nice

by Gtrav

Aug 1, 2008
2008 / August 2008

The islands of Guam and Saipan stand like little oases of the United States hidden among the far-flung islands of Micronesia, considerably closer to Tokyo and Manila than Honolulu. Their familiar chain restaurants and ties to the U.S. mainland have earned them the title of “America in Asia.” Punchy labels aside, in reality these bits of paradise only have a lunar connection to the mainland — largely because a journey here seems to take nearly as long as a trip to the moon.

Commonly, though unfairly, known primarily for World War II devastation, duty-free shopping and hordes of Japanese budget tourists, the islands have a surprising depth of activities, history and culture ranging from humble to breathtaking. Island vacation veterans may typify them as “Diet Hawaii,” but this is not necessarily a bad thing. Seven to 10 days of comparable accommodations and activities on Guam and Saipan, airfare included, cost significantly less than the same interval in Maui.

The South Pacific marine climate keeps the islands hot and humid, with nominal seasonal variations. The average annual rainfall of 96 inches arrives mostly between July and November. The opposing dry season is far more appealing, with January and February marking the coolest part of the year.

Mother Nature can be brutal on this part of the planet. Guam and Saipan sit like bull’s-eyes in the middle of “Typhoon Alley,” and earthquakes are frequent. In 2002 Guam was hammered by a 7.2 earthquake in April, a typhoon in July and finally the Super Typhoon Pongsona in December, with sustained winds of 125 mph. Yet, locals show little concern for these potential sources of devastation. Stout earthquake-resistant designs and typhoon countermeasures are integrated into any building larger than a tool shed. The day after one of two bolt-upright-in-bed tremors transpired during my six-night stay, I heard islanders casually inquiring, “Did you have a nice earthquake?”

The sensation of flying 13 hours from the U.S. West Coast, alighting nearly 36 calendar hours later (crossing the International Date Line), while still spending U.S. dollars is more than a little discombobulating. You’ll spy familiar domestic names like Home Depot, Subway and Kmart (and Guam claims to have the highest per capita consumption of Budweiser in the world). But you’ll also find the islands’ native Chamorro food, culture and disarming kindness. There’s seemingly no end to the pristine blue waters, virgin jungle, legendary golf, and arresting Word War II memorabilia.

In fact, Guam’s ethnic diversity is a constant reminder that, while you may not have opened your passport to get here, you are decidedly far from home. The most developed of the Micronesia islands, Guam is home to nearly 173,500 people — a dizzying mix of Chamorros, Filipinos, Caucasians, Koreans, Japanese and Chinese. The official languages of the island are English and Chamorro. Guam was designated as an “organized, unincorporated territory of the United States” in 1950, and its residents enjoy U.S. citizenship, as well as U.S. domestic telephone area and postal codes, but no meaningful U.S. government representation save a single non-voting congressional delegate. U.S. military spending ($1.3 billion in 2004) and budget tourists from Asia drive the economy. Guam’s population and economy will soon get a boost as the U.S. Marine Corps’ III Marine Expeditionary Force, comprised of 24,000 marines and their dependents, transfer to Guam from Okinawa in stages between 2009 and 2013.

The influence of Spanish culture and language is evident on both islands. While in the service of the Spanish Crown, Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan landed on Guam in 1521, and Gen. Miguel López de Legazpi claimed it for Spain in 1565.

A Catholic mission arrived in 1668, when the islands were part of the Spanish East Indies and served as a trade-route stop between Mexico and the Philippines. The United States grabbed Guam in 1898 during the Spanish-American War and, apart from Japanese occupation for nearly 32 months during World War II, it has since remained a U.S. possession.

An impressive attraction in Guam’s capital, Hagatna (formerly Agana), is Latte Stone Park, featuring several enormous lattes — columns used to support prehistoric raised homes. (How these mammoth pillars of limestone were quarried and moved is still a mystery.)

Also explore the Spanish colonial Fort Santa Agueda (1800); historic Plaza de España, with neighboring St. Joseph’s Church; and the wildly popular village Wednesday Night Market where locals and tourists converge to enjoy street food, handicraft shopping and music. For a thirst-quenching, low-cost shot of local culture, seek out a ‘‘tuba stand” — a folding table and giant picnic cooler, quietly manned by a pensioner — to sample tuba, a sweet alcoholic drink made from fermented coconuts, sold in small and large cups for $1 and $2.

Northern Guam is ground-zero for resorts, shopping and water activities, There’s little reason to rent a car, since many services provide door-todoor transport from your hotel, and a fleet of inexpensive or free trolleystyle buses loop through the area at 15-minute intervals day and night, stopping at every hotel and street corner of note.

However, to venture to the less developed, languid southern end of the island, you’ll need private transport or the services of a tour operator like Discover Guam (tel 671 649 8687, http://discover@guamcell.net). Winding roads lined with mango trees take you through tiny villages, with glimpses of breathtaking bays. Along the way you’ll find the War in the Pacific National Park; the 1785 Taleyfac Spanish Bridge (listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1974); Umatac Bay, where some believe Magellan landed; the ruins of Fort Soledad, built to protect the Manila Galleons during their voyage from Acapulco to Manila; and the Gef Pa’go Chamorro historic cultural village. Intrepid explorers (with stout footwear) should seek out Gadao’s Cave in Inarajan, one of seven caves containing prehistoric pictographs.

Saipan’s prehistory and culture largely mirror Guam’s. In recent history, the island was ruled first by Germany (1899–1914), then Japan (1914–1944). Taken from the Japanese during World War II, Saipan joined the United States in 1986 in a somewhat nebulous relationship, with exemption from certain U.S. federal laws that facilitated several political, labor and sex scandals. The media attention from these events continues to haunt the island, plunging Saipan into a tourism slump. Despite being blessed with better natural scenery and a slower pace than Guam, the economy has declined due to a rising cost of living for residents and a critical drop in visitors. The island is working toward improved tourism, a stronger infrastructure and general revitalization of its image. Meanwhile, those who visit will enjoy underdog-caliber prices and hospitality, to say nothing of the profound beauty and escapism that punctuate most visitors’ impressions.

While the south of Saipan is largely clustered with hotels and shops, the north is flush with scenery and World War II sites, including the haunting Kalabera Cave, Bird Island, Suicide Cliff and the Japanese “Last Command Post” decorated with salvaged military weapons. Managaha Island, a speck of soft white sand and palm trees on the edge of Saipan’s Tanapag Lagoon, is a day trip of pure leisure, enriched by crystal clear waters and a general theme of repose. ‘‘Managaha,” incidentally, means “relax for a while.” If you plan to independently explore Saipan beyond the touristbusy Garapan district, a rental car or a private tour is required.


LODGING

SHERATON LAGUNA GUAM RESORT

Opened in 2007, the Sheraton offers rooms tastefully adorned in dark wood, cream tones, flat-panel TVs and diffused lighting. Onsite eating and drinking options are all outstanding, especially The Point, a wine bar/café/lounge with Starbucks coffee, and the President Nippon Restaurant, serving exceptional Japanese cuisine, including a teppanyaki station. A manmade lagoon and beach lead to a seco nd-tier seaside Jacuzzi and infinity pool with wondrous views of the crashing surf below. Amenities include a WiFi-equipped business center and Angsana Spa.$$$$
SHERATON LAGUNA GUAM RESORT
470 Farenholt Ave., Tamuning, Guam
tel 671 646 2222
http://www.starwoodhotels.com

HILTON GUAM RESORT AND SPA
Though corners may have been cut on room décor, this sprawling landmark — the oldest chain hotel on Guam — enjoys a front-row seat to bustling Tumon Bay. Renovated in 2008, the 658-room resort is tailored to families, business guests and island revelers alike, including Hilton’s signature Tasi Club wing. More selfcontained village than hotel, it has onsite restaurants, bars, a café, a convenience store, shops, a water park and entertainment, with Tumon’s myriad enticements within easy walking distance.$$$
HILTON GUAM RESORT AND SPA
202 Hilton Road, Tumon Bay, Guam
tel 671 646 1835
http://www.guam.hilton.com

HYATT REGENCY SAIPAN

Standard rooms sport an island décor in colors so creamy you’ll wonder if there was anything left for the Alfredo sauce down in Giovanni’s Restaurant (one of four restaurants onsite, boasting the only genuine Italian chef in the Northern Marianas). Welcome touches including plush bathroom towels and hotel-wide complimentary WiFi are proudly offered, along with regular yoga classes and the luxury i Saguá Spa with the only residential suite in Micronesia.$$$
HYATT REGENCY SAIPAN
P.O. Box 5087, Capital Hill Rural Branch, Saipan
tel 670 234 1234
http://www.saipan.regency.hyatt.com


DINING

SAM CHOY’S

The best reason to visit this Tumon-area chain restaurant is the selection of native Chamorro specialties wisely added to its menu of Hawaiian and Pacific Rim dishes. Forget entrees and simply graze on appetizer plates of barbeques, dried meats and local variations including kelaguen, a marinade of lemon juice, fresh coconut, green onions and hot red chilies for basting chicken, shrimp, fish and raw beef. The better-known crab legs and tall tropical drinks are delicious as well. The aquarium/bar and under-the-sea décor harmonize with the restaurant’s downstairs neighbor, Guam’s impressive Underwater World. $$$$
SAM CHOY’S
1245 Pale San Vitores Road, Suite 450, Tumon, Guam
tel 671 649 6637

DOLPHIN RESTAURANT
Two things will strike you as you settle down to a seven-course, surf and turf fixed-price dinner at this restaurant perched at the top of a 10-story tower: the amazing sunset view and the dizzying 14 pieces of silverware staring back at you. You’re gonna need ’em all as you dig into a parade of dishes, including a mouthwatering appetizer boat with a shrimp/apple salad, bruschetta and salmon, a scallop/shrimp/mussel starter, and a slice of chocolate coffee cream cake.$$$
DOLPHIN RESTAURANT
Hafadai Beach Hotel, Saipan
tel 670 234 6495

JEF’S PIRATES COVE
Jeff’s is an island landmark and bona fide tourist site with theme restaurant, souvenir shop, beach activities, a museum of unique artifacts, the wheel from the battleship USS Oregon of 1893 and ‘‘Yokoi’s true story wall,” telling the legend of the last Japanese World War II straggler captured in 1972, a whopping 26 years after the war ended. The seafood appetizer platter should not be ordered lightly and the Greek menu is of surprisingly high quality. $$
JEF’S PIRATES COVE
111 S. Chalan Antigo, Ipan Talofofo, Guam
tel 671 789 1582
http://www.jeffspiratescove.com


Diversions

Guam and Saipan share comparable recreation options, not the least of which are World War II memorials. The War in the Pacific National Historical Park on Guam (tel 671 477 7278, http://www.nps.gov/wapa) and the American Memorial Park on Saipan (tel 670 234 7607, http://www.nps.gov/amme) are excellent jumping-off points.

Some of the best dive sites in the wo rld are here, including the Grotto (Saipan), the Blue Hole (Guam), and the wrecks of the SMS Cormoran and Tokai Maru (Guam) — the only site in the world where wrecks from two world wars touch one another. Contact Tropical Dive Station on Guam (tel 671 472 4837, http://reservations@gtds.com) and Mariana Sports Club on Saipan (tel 670 233 0670, http://info@mscsaipan.com).

At Guam’s Seawalker Tours (tel 671 477 3830, http://info@seawalker.com.au), a rudimentary dive using a diving bell helmet is a low-impact way to explore the sea floor and admire a variety of colorful fish up close.

Other water activities (dolphin watching, banana boat rides, parasailing) are available through Alupang Beach Club (http://www.abcguam.com). For activities that don’t involve open water, the Pacific Islands Club (http://www.picresorts.com), on both islands, features pools, water slides, a swim-through aquarium (Guam only), windsurfing pool, kayaking and dry-land activities like tennis, badminton and game rooms. Sunset dinner cruises are de rigueur on both islands, though the Stars and Stripes cruise (http://www.starsandstripessaipan.com), proudly flying what is believed to be the only American flag sail on Earth, is a standout for the fresh vegetables and buffet spread, complimented by the awe-inspiring energy of Roger, a one-man floor show. (Be prepared to dance.)

The hike to Guam’s Yona Tank Farm is an off-the-beatenpath thrill for serious explorers. While no battles took place in the area, pockmarked ruins of Sherman tanks and other military vehicles sit where they were abandoned during heavy rains in 1944. Contact the Yona Mayor’s Office (tel 671 789 4798) for hike information. For more trekking options, contact Guam Boonie Stompers (tel 671 653 2897, http://davelotz@ite.net), which organizes hikes every Saturday at 9 a.m. On Saipan, Marianas Trekking (tel 670 322 0770,http:// http://www.marianastrekking.com) conducts The Forbidden Island Tour, a combination jungle, coastline and cave exploration, including a dip in a cave pool and snorkeling.

Both islands have impressive golf courses, including Talofofo on Guam, a cinematic stretch of links with mountain backdrops jointly designed by nine U.S. Senior Professional Golfers.

The Sandcastle dinner and cocktail shows are heavily promoted on both islands and offer acts combining dance, ice skating, acrobatics, magic and rare tigers.

If the ‘‘bustle” of Guam and Saipan proves too much, or a virtually deserted island beach sounds appealing, take a side trip to the nearby islands of Rota and Tinian — Rota for the epitome of soothing, small-island tranquility and Tinian for further World War II history, a collection of massive lattes and one of the most remote 4-star casinos in the world, the Tinian Dynasty Casino and Hotel (tel 670 328 2233, http://tinian.dynasty@pticom.com).


INFO TO GO

Guam

Antonio B. Won Pat International Airport (GUM ), also known as Guam International Airport, located three miles east of Hagatna. Taxi rates are fixed depending on your destination.

Saipan
On the southern tip of the island, Saipan International Airport (GSN/SPN), also known as Francisco C. Ada/Saipan International Airport. Taxi fares range from $15 to $35, depending on where you’re staying. Avoid unlicensed “private taxis.”

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