It was good to be back on Tortola — to breathe the sea air and let the tropical sun warm muscles grown stiff from sitting in airports and planes. We’d visited the British Virgin Islands before, staying at various resorts and scuba diving the popular sites. And one winter we’d spent a memorable week kayaking among the islands, sleeping in tents on deserted beaches and cooking over campfires.

This visit would be different. We planned to wander among the islands aboard a sleek, 44-foot sailboat. The B.V.I. remains a favorite of the yachting crowd — including rich (and sometimes famous) yacht owners as well as ordinary families who charter boats. The region is famous for its well-charted waters; plentiful harbors; and excellent diving, snorkeling and fishing. As a British colony, it’s also “user-friendly,” with English the official language and the U.S. dollar the official currency.

During the taxi ride to our yacht, I recalled what it was like to cross the Sir Francis Drake Channel in a kayak. After about a thousand paddle strokes, I lost track of where the sea ended and the sky began. Our tiny flotilla of five white sea kayaks bobbed like seed pods in a world of Picasso blues — the cobalt bowl of the sea beneath us, a dome of cloudless turquoise overhead. About 2,000 years ago, the Arawaks migrated here from South America in vessels shaped like ours but made of bark. Scary! At least we knew that somewhere ahead, though not yet in sight, lay Tortola, largest of the British Virgin Islands.

“Largest” isn’t very big. If you glued the 60-odd islands and cays of the B.V.I. together, the land mass is slightly less than the area of Washington, D.C., and the B.V.I. population of 28,000 would be swallowed up in the harried humanity (600,000-plus) of the U.S. capital. This was why we fled Washington in the ugly gray grip of winter to paddle kayaks in one of the most pristine areas of the Caribbean.

Snorkeling in turquoise water among huge granite boulders at The Baths on Virgin Gorda © Alexander Shalamov | Dreamstime.com

Only 16 islands in the B.V.I. are inhabited, principally Tortola, Anegada, Virgin Gorda and Jost Van Dyke. The other dozen enjoy sparse populations … and the rest are deserted, randomly shaped volcanic cays topped with lush vegetation and ringed by white beaches, clear waters and an underwater zoo stocked with colorful sea life.

Shallow coral reefs protect most of the small islands from the approach of conventional boats, but our kayaks provided unlimited access. We pitched our tents on any beach and snorkeled any reefs that caught our fancy. Bathing entailed a plunge in the warm, salty Caribbean. Dressing for dinner by the campfire meant pulling a dry T-shirt over a swimsuit. At night, the sounds of “bo-peeping” tree frogs and the lapping of waves on the beach lulled us to sleep.

My reverie ended as we reached Tortola’s Fat Hogs Bay and boarded the sailboat chartered for us by the Womanship Sailing School. During the next seven days we would not only learn to sail but also see how the “yachting half” lived, following an idyllic daily regimen of swim, eat, sail, eat, snorkel, sail, eat, sleep. Every night we watched a glorious sunset in a different harbor. We prepared dinner on board or took the dinghy to a waterside restaurant. As we encountered other sailors at anchor or on shore, we exchanged knowing grins. Rich or not, we were living the good life.

Visitors find as many ways to enjoy the B.V.I. as there are islands — and every island offers its own unique pleasures. In addition to watersports, opportunities abound for hiking, birding and exploring uninhabited cays, nature preserves and historic sites.

Columbus passed through these islands in 1493 on his second trip to the New World, naming them Las Virgenes (The Virgins) after St. Ursula’s 11,000 virgins. One hilly island he dubbed Virgin Gorda (Fat Virgin) because of its shape. Despite easy access in the modern era, the islands remain somewhat virginal in nature, aided by sustainable tourism practices.

Cave at The Baths on Virgin Gorda © Alexander Shalamov | Dreamstime.com

The capital of the British Virgin Islands, Road Town, lies on Tortola, along with the Terrance B. Lettsome Airport, the main gateway to the islands. Away from the downtown bustle you’ll find secluded beaches and unique places to stay ranging from campgrounds to luxury villas and resorts. Visitors can get a taste of local history in the museums here as well as literal tastes of local favorites such as fresh lobster and conch, curried goat, johnny cakes and roti. Road Town serves as shopping central, offering everything from local jams and soaps to jewelry and artwork. The island’s Sage Mountain Park, a nature preserve, includes vestiges of a primeval rainforest.

Despite its modest size (8.5 square miles), Virgin Gorda contains six national parks, including the world-famous Baths, where massive granite boulders lie scattered and stacked at the water’s edge, creating a labyrinth of grottoes and pools. As a popular spot for snorkeling as well as beach activities, mooring buoys and a dinghy dock lie offshore to protect the reefs and beach. Hiking trails lace the island’s natural areas. Several historic high-end resorts occupy the island, including the 5-star Bitter End Yacht Club on the North Sound, accessible only by boat or seaplane. Across from the Bitter End lies Necker Island, the exclusive resort owned by Sir Richard Branson, which rents for about $60,000 a night.

Sailboats along the coast of Jost Van Dyke © Donelle Oxley

According to local lore, Jost Van Dyke was named for a Dutch pirate who lived here. No treasure has been found, but that doesn’t keep beachcombers from dreaming. The island’s real treasure derives from its people and their local food and drink — conch stew, grilled lobster, barbecue and flying-fish sandwiches. On White’s Bay, head to the Soggy Dollar Bar at the Sandcastle Hotel, inventor of the infamous “Painkiller” rum cocktail. Foxy’s Tamarind Bar on Great Harbour serves as party central, especially during the annual Old Year’s Night celebration on Dec. 31.

Most of the Virgin Islands are volcanic, but Anegada (meaning “drowned land”) is a coral atoll, 28 feet at its highest point. The 18-mile-long Horseshoe Reef, one of the largest in the Caribbean, protects its gorgeous beaches. The reef has claimed hundreds of ships over the centuries and still requires careful navigation. Shipwrecks, healthy coral and abundant sea life make it a draw for divers. Tourism and fishing are the main industries, and the lobster you consume anyplace in the islands was probably caught here. Rare rock iguana, several turtle species and flamingos that frequent the salt ponds also call Anegada home. Sadly, overfishing wiped out the once abundant conch; all that remains are huge mounds of shells.

British Virgin Islands Info to Go

There are no direct flights to the British Virgin Islands’ main gateway, Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport, on Tortola. Visitors make connections through other Caribbean islands such as San Juan (SJU); St. Croix (STX); Antigua (ANU); St. Maarten (SXM); Barbados (BGI); and St. Thomas (STT). St. Thomas, a popular hub, offers an inexpensive ferry ride to the B.V.I. Once in the B.V.I., travel from island to island on chartered boats, water taxis or ferries. Most resorts and hotels offer shuttles to and from ferry docks.

Where to Stay in the British Virgin Islands

Bitter End Yacht Club Catering to families and watersports enthusiasts, BEYC’s airy cottages and waterfront restaurants overlook the North Sound, a favorite anchorage of the yachting crowd. Virgin Gorda $$$$$

Guana Island This private, all-inclusive island enclave with seven beaches and 850 acres of tropical wilderness accommodates 32 guests in luxurious cottages and villas. Guana Island $$$$$

Villa Aquamare The three 8,000-square-foot villas on Mahoe Bay, designed for families and small groups, feature five master suites, large living and kitchen areas and private pools. Virgin Gorda $$$$$

Restaurants in the British Virgin Islands

Caravela Restaurant Excellent service complements creative Caribbean dishes made with Anegada lobster, conch and tuna and the delightful second-floor view. Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina, Scrub Island $$$$

The Sugar Mill Restaurant The ancient mill and tropical garden set a romantic tableau for entrées (changed daily) such as grouper baked in banana leaves. Apple Bay, Tortola $$$$

Tradewinds Restaurant The seafood’s wonderful at this chic island restaurant, but the Angus tenderloin with eggplant caviar, celeriac and potato is sublime. Peter Island Resort & Spa, Peter Island $$$$$