The Amazon Rainforest sat at the top of my bucket list for years, and I’d long wanted to explore the city of Manaus, otherwise known as the gilded city of the jungle. In the 1800s the rubber industry made Manaus the richest city in South America, earning it the nickname the Paris of the Tropics.

The capital of the state of Amazonas in northwest Brazil, Manaus serves as a hub for adventure, culture and business. When I traveled with my family, we were all excited to explore the history and heritage of Manaus, and some of us managed to squeeze in time to meet contacts and network, too. The trip to Manaus and the Amazon proves perfect for group or intergenerational travel, as it offers something to appeal to everyone.

Located on the banks of the Rio Negro, Manaus serves as a popular departure point for exploring the Amazon. Just east of the city, at the Meeting of the Waters, the black currents of the Rio Negro converge with the muddied brown Solimões River. You will find a unique cultural heritage in Manaus distinct from the rest of Brazil because of its location in the heart of the jungle.

PHOTO: © VISIT BRAZIL

We strolled the streets to appreciate the elegant architecture and tasted traditional Amazonian cuisine at Biatüwi. We also sipped cocktails at sunset while enjoying the view at Casa do Pensador, located in front of the Amazonas Theatre (another must-visit). This opera house in São Sebastian highlights the city’s architecture, and the surrounding piazza is lively and elegant, with live music played on the streets. We found the music scene eclectic and unique and the culinary options divine.

After four days, we were reluctant to leave, aware there was more to explore. But, of course, when visiting Manaus, you’d be remiss not to venture deeper into the Amazon Rainforest. Though my family and I are not always avid cruisers, in certain parts of the world an expedition cruise proves truly spectacular: the Nile, the Mekong and, of course, the Amazon. We considered Manaus the best port city for an Amazon cruise because, while the Amazon Rainforest covers 2.6 million square miles across nine countries in South America, 60 percent of the Amazon Basin lies in Brazil.

PHOTO:
© ERIC GORLEER

After our time in the city, we set out upon the Rio Negro deeper into the heart of the Amazon. We spent six days aboard the motor yacht Tucano, an eco-expedition via Amazon Nature Tours. Aboard this ship I discovered the forest truly comes alive at night, with the stars above reflecting on the black waters of the Rio Negro and the animals rising from midday slumbers to call for mates in the jungle. I’ve traveled all over the world and have never seen stars as magnificent as those in Amazonas. It’s astounding what the lack of light pollution does to a night sky, and this method of slow travel allows you to truly soak in the wonders of your environment.

The nature of the trip perfectly accommodates multigenerational travel, as I experienced with my family. On a cruise you can decide what activities to partake in and how relaxed you wish to be aboard. It’s a bit harder for business travelers, with no cellular service within the jungle, and many eco-cruises offer limited WiFi. But on this excursion, I regarded the lack of cell service and WiFi as a blessing, allowing me to connect more deeply with my surroundings.

Many residents of Manaus are indigenous to the Amazon, hailing from remote villages in this famously dense South American jungle. At Amazon Nature Tours, most of the staff hail from the riverside communities, offering unparalleled access to the jungle’s residents. Often we canoed ashore and spent an afternoon visiting families. Sailing the Rio Negro with the Amazonian staff, I learned so much about the history and culture of the region. I discovered the people are just as fascinating and integral to the rainforest as the famous pink dolphins and tropical birds.

PHOTO: © ERIC GORLEER

If you can’t commit to a week-long trip, half-day options can bring you further into the Amazon as well. As far as what to pack, invest in some lightweight outdoor gear to protect your skin from mosquitos and the sun while staying cool in the heat. Mid-length rubber boots and a hat are also necessary for exploring the jungle. Most of all, bring an open mind. It may be one of the truly wild places left on Earth, and I was overwhelmed by the vastness of the forest. To do your best to protect this historic wilderness, choose an ethical cruise operator for your journey, such as AmaWaterways or Amazon Nature Tours. The jungle awaits.

LODGING
Juma Amazon Lodge
This boutique lodge in the Amazon Rainforest features 20 stilted treetop bungalows overlooking Juma Lake. Beat the heat in the outdoor pool, sourced by natural waters from the local river.
Margem Esquerda do Rio Juma, Autazes – AM, Brazil
$$$$$

Juma Ópera Hotel
This high-end heritage hotel opened in February 2020 in the city center, right in front of Amazonas Theatre, one of the most striking establishments within Manaus.
Rua 10 de Julho 481, Centro, Manaus – AM, Brazil
$$$

Villa Amazônia
Though centrally located in Manaus’s historic center, steps from Amazonas Theatre, the property feels peaceful and secluded, with a swimming pool and 30 apartments overlooking an indoor garden.
Rua 10 de Julho 315, Centro, Manaus – AM, Brazil
$$$–$$$$

DINING
Banzeiro
Taste regional cuisine at this popular establishment, serving fresh fish from the Amazon River. Order the grilled tambaqui fish ribs and banana cake, two local favorites.
Rua Libertador 102, Nossa Senora das Graças, Manaus – AM, Brazil
$$$–$$$$

Choupana
This award-winning restaurant in the city center serves fresh local and regional cuisine. Specialties include duck tucupi, pirarucu fillet and seafood risotto.
Av. Mário Ypiranga 790, Adrianópolis, Manaus – AM, Brazil
$$$–$$$$

Rancho Búfalo
This Brazilian steakhouse (churras- caria) embodies the gaucho spirit in its menu and aesthetics. Order the baby beef ribs and lamb chops, and check out the extensive international wine list.
Av. Constantino Nery 3131, Chapada, Manaus – AM, Brazil
$$–$$$

INFO TO GO
Manaus–Eduardo Gomes International Airport services six airlines: avianca, Azul, Conviasa, Copa Airlines, Gol and LATAM Airlines. International travelers often route through the international airports in São Paulo (GRU) or Rio de Janeiro (GIG) before arriving in Manaus. The airport sits only 7 miles from the city center, roughly a 10-minute drive. Taxis await at the airport outside ground transportation, or you can access public transportation via Vega Manaus, a bus that runs every 30 minutes to the E2 Arena. Ride share options are also available, as Uber has coverage in Brazil.