
Business travelers who head back to the Frankfurt airport right after that last meeting are missing out on one of the city’s key attractions: its location in the romantic Rhine Region. Thriving vineyards, atmospheric castles and little towns with quaint architecture make the area an ideal destination for couples to explore a deux.
Castles dot the landscape — some 40 scattered along the Rhine — and an entire river cruising industry has sprung up to help visitors take it all in. Known as the birthplace of German Romanticism, the region is also steeped in myths and fairy tales. The musical history is no less dramatic, as the area inspired Wagner and Beethoven to create some of their most famous works.
Oenophiles, or just enthusiastic amateurs, can visit local vineyards, while hardy visitors will appreciate the opportunities to seek outdoor pursuits, including vast trail networks for hiking and biking. Finally, there are urban charms in the Rhine Region as well. In addition to Frankfurt, fans of art and culture can explore Wiesbaden, Mainz, Bonn and, the jewel in the crown, the medieval city of Cologne.
Cologne, Germany’s oldest city, retains its romantic old-world charm despite much of the city center being reduced to rubble during World War II. Miraculously, the famous Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, survived the bombing and today remains one of the region’s most-visited attractions. Tours are available (Domkloster 3, tel 49 221 925 84730) except during services. While in Cologne plan a visit to the Chocolate Museum (Am Schokoladenmuseum 1a, tel 49 221 931 8880, http://www.schokoladenmuseum.de) to see its famous chocolate fountain, or learn about the evolution of eau de cologne at the Fragrance Museum Farina-Haus(Obenmarspforten 21, tel 49 221 399 8994, http://www.farina.eu).
The annual Rhine in Flames fireworks extravaganzas light up the Middle Rhine region in summer. The festival moves from city to city, with dramatic fireworks over Burg Katz, otherwise known as Cat Castle (St. Goarshausen, Rheinland-Pfalz, tel 49 6771 1870). Stay for a falconry show at nearby Mouse Castle, and bring your camera for a shot of iconic Lorelei Rock (near St. Goarshausen, about 50 miles from Frankfurt), inspiration for the legend of Lorelei, the mermaid who lured sailors to their doom with her song.
Couples can pay homage to one of history’s greatest composers at the Beethoven Haus (Bonngasse 20-26, tel 49 228 981750, http://www.beethovenhaus-bonn.de) in Bonn. Attend a concert in the chamber music hall or simply wander the gardens and 12 tiny memorabilia-filled rooms of the musician’s birthplace. Art lovers can explore the Art and Exhibition Hall of the Federal Republic of Germany(Museumsmeile Bonn, Friedrich- Ebert-Allee, tel 49 228 91710, http://www.bundeskunsthalle.de), an arrestingly avant-gard facility with a roof garden and world-class exhibitions.
There are nearly 500 wine festivals in the Rhine Region every year. Three of the most popular are the Frankfurt Rheingau Wine Festival (Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse, Opernplatz, tel 49 692 123 8990, http://www.frankfurttourismus.de), held at the end of August into early September; the Mainz Wine Festival (Mainz’s Rosengarten and Volkspark, tel 49 6131 286210, http://www.info-mainz.de), which draws some half-million visitors; and the Ruedesheim Wine Festival (Geisenheimer Strasse 22, tel 49 67 22 19433, http://www.ruedesheimer-weinfest.de), offering a festival atmosphere with food, music and children’s activities. Save time for the Bromserburg Castle Wine Museum (Rudesheim am Rhein, tel 49 6722 2348, http://www.rheingauerweinmuseum.de), open from mid- March to the end of October, for tastings and a glimpse into the history of local winemaking.
The time-honored way to explore the Rhine River and its many castles is by boat, and the river cruise industry accommodates couples with daytime tours, evening dinner cruises and multi-day itineraries. Try a narrated trip from Cologne to Dusseldorf aboard the Koln-Dusseldorfer German Rhine Line (Frankenwerft 35, tel 49 221 2088 318, http://www.k-d.com) with daily cruises and onboard catering. Bring a bike for an afternoon of cycling through the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in the Middle Rhine or just enjoy the view of Cologne’s scenic Old Town.
Twosomes who would rather spend their quality time outdoors can take a hike along the Rheinsteig (http://www.rheinsteig.de), a network of trails that runs along the Rhine River between Bonn, Koblenz and Wiesbaden and allows frequent stops to explore the castles en route or a longer trek through some of the prettiest villages and forests in the region. Don’t miss Volcanic Park (Rauschermuhle 6, Plaidt, tel 49 2632 9875 0, http://www.vulkanpark.com/index-eng.php) for plenty of hiking and biking opportunities and an eye-popping view of lava cellars and interactive displays.
LODGING
BURGHOTEL SCHOENBURG
The Rhine region is all about castles, so why not stay in one? This 22-room property is fairy-tale pretty, especially the tower rooms, complete with private balconies and breathtaking views. Perched over the medieval town of Oberwesel, the hotel boasts an A-list location in the midst of vineyards and scenic bike and hiking paths and is less than a mile from the Rhine River boat docks. The hotel will arrange a wine tour in the neighboring vineyards, known for their high-quality Rieslings. There are 18 double rooms, two suites and two single rooms, all decorated individually but featuring free Internet, TV, CD player and minibar. The property, open from mid-March to mid- January, also offers a four-course Small Culinary Journey through Germany dinner on Mondays. $$$$
BURGHOTEL SCHOENBURG
Auf Schoenburg, 55430
Oberwesel am Rhein
tel 49 6744 93930
http://www.burghotel-schoenburg.de
EXCELSIOR HOTEL ERNST
Situated across from Cologne’s Cathedral, this 5-star hotel scores points not only for location — some rooms look out at the Cathedral dome — but for old-world elegance. The 142 guestrooms and suites are each outfitted with antiques and original art as well as such conveniences as wireless Internet and cable TV. Spend a romantic evening in the wood-paneled piano bar or choose from several restaurants, including the Hanse Stube for updated regional dishes and the more modern Asian Taku. Work off dinner at the fitness center, complete with steam room, sauna and beauty salon.$$$$
EXCELSIOR HOTEL ERNST
Trankgasse 1-5 Domplatz
tel 49 221 270 3220
http://www.excelsiorhotelernst.de/eng
STEIGENBERGER GRANDHOTEL PETERSBURG
Queen Elizabeth II and President Bill Clinton are just two of many dignitaries who have stayed at this country manor over the years, but that doesn’t mean the atmosphere is stuffy. Instead, the nearly 250-year-old estate, situated along the Rhine a little more than 10 miles from Bonn, exudes a fairy-tale charm ideal for a romantic getaway. The 99 guestrooms feature a mix of antiques and contemporary furnishings as well as cable TV and wireless Internet. No need to scour the countryside for haute cuisine thanks to the Rheinterrassen Restaurant’s French menu and extensive wine list. Book a spa treatment, swim in indoor and outdoor pools or book a session with a personal trainer.$$$$
STEIGENBERGER GRANDHOTEL P ETERSBURG
Petersberg, 53639
Konigswinter/Bonn
tel 49 2223 740
http://www.grandhotel-petersberg.steigenberger.com
DINING
JOHAN LAFER’S STROMBURG
Food lovers who gravitate to Relais & Chateaux restaurants can enjoy gourmet dining at the Johan Lafer’s Stromburg at the edge of the Palatinate Forest. Under the tutelage of owner Johann Lafer and Executive Chef Thomas Kahl, the restaurant takes full advantage of its proximity to top-rated local wineries.Dine in the castle or al fresco, surrounded by nature, and enjoy such menu choices as venison cooked with lemongrass and grilled asparagus. Guests can even visit the kitchen or the wine cellar before relaxing in the cigar lounge.$$$$
JOHAN LAFER’S STROMBURG
Michel Obentrautstrasse, D-55442
Stromberg (Rheinland-Pfalz)
tel 49 6724 93100
http://www.johannlafer.de
JAGDSCHLOSS NIEDERWALD
Rudesheim is known as one of the most romantic towns in the Rhine region. Charming scenery seemingly from another era and world-class wines are draws, but the area also offers no shortage of fine dining. The Jagdschloss Niederwald restaurant is known for such local specialties as grilled Victoria perch in herbs, venison served with cranberries and pine nuts and gourmet vegetarian selections. Wine pairings are also available with vintages from the Rheingau, including white Rieslings and red Assmanshauser. $$$
JAGDSCHLOSS NIEDERWALD
1 – 65385 Rudesheim am Rhein
tel 49 6722 71060
http://www.niederwald.de
ZUR ROSE
Couples looking for a break from pricey, formal castle restaurants can tuck into a romantic dinner at the Zur Rose in Wiesbaden. The eatery, which hasn’t changed its look all that much over its long history, boasts an ornate, white enamel oven holding pride of place in the dining room. The menu is traditional as well and includes such specialties as shellfish, smoked and fresh flat fish and roast duck, all washed down with regional wines. In summer head for the adjacent beer garden.$$
ZUR ROSE
Bremthaler Strasse
1, 6527 Wiesbaden Naurod
tel 49 6127 4006
http://www.hotelzurrose.de
INFO TO GO
The largest airport in Germany and the third-largest in Europe, the Frankfurt International Airport (FRA) is the principle airport serving the Rhine region. The airport (http://www.airportcity-frankfurt.com) offers a full menu of services, from business facilities and retail shops to a drycleaner, post office and a pharmacy. There are two main terminals with expansion plans under way to create a third.
The airport is served by two railway stations: The AIRail Terminal (adjacent to Terminal 1, http://www.bahn.de) offers long-distance and highspeed service to other German and European cities, while the regional railway station, (underneath Terminal 1, http://www.bahn.de) serves local S-Bahn trains. The two stations are linked via free Sky Line shuttle service. Scheduled bus service (http://www.rmv.de) is available at both terminals, and taxis are widely available for about $30 to $40 to Frankfurt city center. All major car rental companies are represented. For information about travel to Germany, visit http://www.germany-tourism.de
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2008
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