ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: The property is conveniently located in Wendake, near Québec City, and my friend Carl Etcheverry, the hotel’s sommelier, kindly offered to pick me up at the airport. Carl and I know each other well from his time at The Union League in Philadelphia and his participation as a wine judge in the Global Traveler Wines on the Wing business- and first- class airline wine competition. Having moved to Québec to be the sommelier for Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations and restaurant La Traite, Carl invited us to visit. As the Wendats and native investors own the hotel, founded in 1989, its staff represents nine of the 11 First Nations living in Québec Province.

Arriving at HMPN, we were guided to the front desk for an immediate check-in to our room. The swift process afforded us the chance to drop off our bags for a quick refresh before meeting in the Lobby Bar & Lounge before dinner. The lobby blends into the Huron-Wendat Museum, with the entrance just off the lobby, and you can arrange for guided tours. The museum was built to house and return Wendat artifacts and preserve them for future generations. Rather than simply building the museum, it was decided an adjoining hotel would allow guests to stay longer to experience the museum, longhouse and surroundings while supporting the local economy.

© Francis X. Gallagher

GUEST QUARTERS

We had a beautiful suite with a large living room and dining area with a separate bedroom, located in the new wing of the hotel. It included two bathrooms: a powder room immediately to the left at the entrance to the room, and a large bathroom off the bedroom. The living area was inviting, with a round table and chairs set up for dining and a sofa bed, a comfortable chair and coffee table at the end of the room. A gas fireplace made the room very romantic, and a large, flat-screen TV above a desk and work station proved convenient. In the bedroom, two nightstands flanked the king- sized bed, and the opposing wall held another large, flat-screen TV. The bathroom featured a roomy walk-in shower with glass doors and natural, gray-toned tiles. The sink’s off-white color complemented the wall tile. The provided Pharmacopia shampoos and amenities offered a clean scent.

© Francis X. Gallagher

SERVICES/AMENITIES

Once we settled in, we met Carl in the Lobby Bar and sat to enjoy the view of the woods and Saint Charles River beyond (the Huron-Wendat name for the river is Akiawenrahk). Down below and outside the restaurant, a seating area keeps a fire pit roaring in cooler months. During the warmer months, you may sit outside on the patio and enjoy a meal and drinks under umbrellas while listening to the river. We started the evening with a curated charcuterie board of cured local meats, smoked salmon, and local bread and jams. This was served with the cold, delicious “Adagio” Extra Brut Rosé crafted nearby on Île d’Orléans by Saint Pierre Le Vignoble. I never knew such a lovely sparkling wine could be produced in Canada. Carl has visited the vineyard multiple times, including the harvest, and told us the story and history, which is one of his great talents. After our cocktail hour, Carl accompanied us to La Traite, HMPN’s restaurant, for dinner. The restaurant prides itself on using local farm-to-table produce and game in its dishes, all helmed by Chef Anora Lia Collier (see our December 2024 Chefs column). Each dinner was paired by wine handpicked from all over the world and served with each wine’s story to complement. Under Carl’s lead, the wine list received the Award of Excellence (2023–24) from Wine Spectator. An entire section of the list features unique wines produced by native-owned wineries.

© Francis X. Gallagher

That evening I enjoyed the walleye carpaccio followed by the elk medallion. You will find local indigenous game meat and fish such as seal, Arctic char and wapiti (venison), upon availability.

I cannot say enough about the total, immersive, cultural experience when visiting the home of the Wendat First Nation. To start off your visit, I recommend a guided tour of the museum. A private guide will cover the entire history of the Wendat people, later named the Huron by the French settlers of Québec in the 15th century. Next to the museum is a replica Wendat Longhouse where you can listen to native tales that have been passed down through the generations. Guests may also overnight in the Longhouse for a truly unique experience. Take time to tour the museum after your guided tour to read the accompanying plaques.

Many walking trails wind along various sections of the Saint Charles River as it makes its way swiftly to the magnificent Kabir Kouba Falls right in the center of the village. (The Wendat name Kabir Kouba translates to Silver Serpent.) An impressive 92 feet high, these falls remind me of scenes in the movie The Last of the Mohicans. Well-defined steps and trails lead you to spots for taking the perfect picture. It also provides an opportunity to work up an appetite for your meals at La Traite. While near the falls, make a stop at Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Church, founded by the Jesuits in 1730, with the current church built in 1865.

© Hôtel – Musée Premières Nations

We also visited the Fumoir Oushata’, an artisanal smokehouse in Wendake run by a local gentleman, Guy Blouin. Guy smokes salmon, great corégone whitefish and trout in his professional and regulated facility in his home. Some of the best smoked salmon we have ever tasted, it is sold locally in stores and served at the hotel.

Next, we visited Bastien Artisanal Moccasins Factory of Wendake, where owner Jason Picard Binet took us through the entire indigenous process of making moccasins using a combination of very old equipment and handicraft. We purchased a pair made of moose skin that are unique and comfortable.

The pièce de résistance, Onhwa’ Lumina (light show) offers a night walk that celebrates the Huron-Wendat Nation culture and stories. The trek covers two-thirds of a mile with a station-by-station light show and touches on aspects of Wendat cultural history. Orchestrated as a light program of video projection, sound and songs, it topped off our trip to the region.

TOP TAKEAWAYS

• Attend the Annual Wendake Pow Wow held during the last weekend of June for a totally immersive experience.
• A great addition to a visit to Québec City

HÔTEL-MUSÉE PREMIÈRES NATIONS
5 Place de la Rencontre
Wendake, QC G0A 4V0 Canada
tel 418 847 2222