Patagonia: Patagonian Adventure

Apr 1, 2008
2008 / April 2008

“Welcome to patagonia!” our guide said with a huge grin that was partly genuine, partly affected. The other guests and I were definitely affecting ours to the point of clenched teeth.

Having just disembarked a powerful jetboat on an inclement early December afternoon, our ecotourism group, every one of us dressed in five layers of warm and water-resistant clothing, stood on a haunting black beach, suffering winds strong enough to stagger a man and drive raindrops like BBs. Admittedly, this dismal “beach walk” was entirely our fault. The guides had warned us that the weather would be iffy, but our group was gung-ho, some of us still punchy after enduring 20-something-hour flights from the United States. Oddly, we couldn’t wait to leave the finely appointed, 4-star environs of our ship, Atmosphere, with its comfortable rooms (duvets nearly as thick as a standard mattress), open bar, platters of tasty snacks and complimentary spa services designed to immerse us in Patagonia’s elements.

Twenty minutes later we were being deservedly pulverized by those elements.

Though the beach was intriguingly stark and otherworldly, a half hour was all we could stand in such harsh conditions. We hailed the jet boat and raced back to Atmosphere. Shedding my clothing and gear on the run, I was settled in the warmth of the outdoor whirlpool tub within minutes of arrival, where I sat submerged from the nose down letting a dozen tiny water jets buffet my back. Cocktail in hand (a local concoction of Pisco brandy made from local grapes combined with lime juice, egg whites, simple syrup and bitters), I stared transfixed at a backdrop of dramatic mountains and lush rainforest.

In its second year of operation, Chilean tour company Nomads of the Sea is redefining ecotourism and “ultimate fly-fishing,” a term I took as a mirthful oxymoron until — a few days later — I found myself rocketing past volcanoes and cruising at a breathtaking 130 mph in a Bell 407 helicopter just tens of feet over the forest canopy en route to the ultimate fly-fishing destination.

By day we fished, sea kayaked, hiked through virgin rainforest and explored dormant volcanoes. By night we dined on king crab, Chilean sea bass, octopus, salmon, filet mignon, lamb and ostrich, accompanied by delicious Chilean wines. Rarely has such service been so intimately paired with such a spectacular natural setting.

Our ill-fated beach walk notwithstanding, that first day had been a rather lively combination of bouncing and skittering around lagoons in a Zodiac Hurricane catching glimpses of sea lions, dolphins, penguins and cormorants. Day 2, however, was another story. Upping the ante significantly, our guides tempted us with an offer of an invigorating morning of sea kayaking. The others in my group unanimously demurred, choosing instead to watch from the sidelines, seated in the accompanying Zodiac. Sensing our guide’s disappointment, and being none too sharp after having consumed what could charitably be described as fantastic quantities of Chilean wine the previous night, I stepped forward and accepted the challenge.

After paddling serenely through mirror-finish water in the lagoon, we moved out to more open (read: rough) water. I’m from Minnesota. We’re used to gentle lakes. As such we like to do our “sea” kayaking with the bare minimum of sea involved. So when the waves started rolling in, so did a flutter of private distress. Though in reality the actual waves were quite tiny, they seemed overwhelming to me: crashing over the front of my kayak, splattering my face with cold salt water, pushing me back and requiring heroic strength on my part to maintain forward momentum. Mercifully, we steered into a calm lagoon for a break.

My guide gave me ample opportunity to bow out and join the others in the Zodiac, but I refused. Surrendering to the elements wo uld have meant that the young, petite, female guide (I later discovered she was tougher than most grown men) would have to take my place in the kayak. Chivalry aside, there was no way I was going let my pride and masculinity take such a profound hit. Instead, I jumped back into the kayak and paddled to a distant rock teeming with sea lions: And I completed the journey with my dignity intact.

Later that day, after a brief rest on Atmosphere where we dined on caviar-topped salmon served on a bed of risotto, carrot cake and Terra Pura Sauvignon Blanc, we hopped aboard a chopper for dramatic transport to the starting point for our planned hike to Llanteles Glacier. From the flat drop-off location, we scrambled upward over loose rock and scrub, eyes trained on our looming destination, while surrounded on three sides by mind-bending mountains, including a towering cliff adorned with tiny waterfalls.

With house-sized chunks of ice continually breaking off the glacier and tumbling down the mountain, we dared venture no farther than the outermost edge of the ice field. After an indulgent photo shoot at the glacier (two professional photographers were in attendance), we retreated a hundred yards from the edge and enjoyed a picnic of cold meats, salmon, cheese, bread and wine. Oh, and whisky. Chilean tradition demanded we sip whiskey chilled with ice chipped off the glacier. Again, I was the only taker: I’d earned it.

The following day, we once again boarded the helicopter. After swooping past a spectacular waterfall and checking in on yet another colony of sea lions, we disembarked on a small beach: the put-in point for a day of fly-fishing. Though the set-up usually calls for two fly-fishers to every one guide, I was alone in a boat with my guide, Ricardo — probably for the best since casting did not come naturally to me.

The secluded lake was deserted and perfectly still with a stunning backdrop of virgin rainforest and, in the distance, snow-capped mountains. The previous night, I had confessed to the lead fly-fishing guide that I had never previously attempted the sport. He assured me that fish would be so abundant I would “catch four by accident.” In fact, I caught 10, including a massive brown trout, snagged a mere seven minutes into the adventure.

It was that easy. I could have let my fly trail behind the boat and lazily reeled in trout all day, but I’d come here to learn to fish and, by God, I intended to learn how to do it properly. So, Ricardo patiently took me through the casting process in incremental stages. My streamer fly and line twirled wildly over the tiny boat like an uncoordinated lasso routine. By some miracle, I managed not to bonk myself in the head or snatch Ricardo’s hat off his head during the precarious tutorials.

At lunchtime all the boats converged back on the beach, where everyone dined on a seafood and chicken pasta stir-fry — prepared on the spot in portable woks — salad, cold meats, cheese and, of course, wine. There was always wine. Then it was back to fishing.

By mid-afternoon Ricardo’s patient, bilingual coaching efforts wrought success. Through a complex series of deftly timed rod flicks and line yanks, I was able to make my fly (and the increasingly long and unwieldy line) do several crack-thewhip sequences just overhead. When I reached the end of my line, I gave my rod one final flick forward and my fly whizzed out a distance of 30 to 40 feet and gently plopped into the water. The moment was so exquisitely Zen that I looked around, half expecting to see Buddha returning to Earth. However, the fish were not so impressed, disappearing in unison, and I had to return to Atmosphere that evening unable to proclaim that I’d caught a single fish using genuine fly-fishing techniques.

When not buzzing low in a helicopter, enjoying Omni-Theater views of mountains, sea, volcanoes and forests, or bobbing in boats, just yards from herds of sea lions, we spent decidedly chill time on Atmosphere. A small army of hospitality staff catered to our every need. Drinks were continually on offer as we lounged on comfy couches and furry chairs. We indulged in a savory and colorful assortment of pre-dinner appetizers and soothed our weary bodies in the spa’s sauna, sea-water hydro-baths and whirlpool tu b.

Though finding food, service and comfort of this caliber on a cruise ship is admittedly nothing out of the ordinary, the simultaneous and wondrous fusion with nature was unforgettable.

Atmosphere sails from mid-October until the end of April (Chile’s spring/summer/fall), though, as with any seasonal activities, the weather and eco-opportunities tend to peak at the height of summer (January/ February). Seasonal activities include whale watching (blue, sperm, orca and more), horseback riding and rafting. Generally, passengers book dedicated fly-fishing tours or ecotours, though Nomads isn’t opposed to a little a-la-carte, mid-trip-impulse tour adjustment should one of the companion itineraries catch your eye. For more information, visit http://www.nomads.cl

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Daily
Oct 14, 2019

A New Generation of Sea Life Takes Up Residence in Las Vegas

The Mirage in Las Vegas welcomed a new addition to its Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat. A baby bottlenose dolphin, born Aug. 16, represents the fourth generation of dolphins living in the habitat.

Thessaloniki: Culture, Good Food and Shopping

Thessaloniki is the second-largest city of Greece and the most important center of the area. Built near the sea, elegant and refined, the Greek “Lady of the North” is a modern, vivacious city that welcomes visitors eager to learn about its history and culture, and at the same time have fun, relax, go shopping or simply explore the cityscape by the sea.

Feature
Oct 13, 2019

How to Prevent Your Miles and Points from Expiring

Keeping up with expiration dates for various miles and points programs is not typically something high on anyone’s to-do list. Here are a few ways to keep track of your points across programs and get ahead of any impending expiration dates.

Feature
Oct 13, 2019

Cathay Pacific Drops Dublin–Hong Kong Route

Hong Kong’s Cathay Pacific is suspending its Dublin (DUB) route this November. The move means Ireland will lose all direct links to Asia, as Hainan Airlines canceled flights to Beijing (PEK) and Shenzen (SZX).

To New Heights

United Airlines announces a number of new routes.

News
Oct 13, 2019

United Unveils New Livery

United unveiled a unique new livery at its Newark (EWR) hub last month. A Boeing 757 aircraft features livery designed by a New Jersey artist and the design prominently focuses on imagery from both New York City and New Jersey. The artist, Corinne Antonelli, won United’s Her Art Here contest, a competition that invited women around the country to submit their livery designs.

Feature
Oct 11, 2019

New Baggage Rules for Virgin Australia

Travelers flying with Virgin Australia will soon get an extra baggage option, but there’s one catch: The owner of the extra bag must be under 23 months old.

The Island of the Knights

Welcome to Rhodes, a medieval treasure beautifully preserved throughout the centuries. Rhodes is the capital of the Dodecanese, an island ideal not only for those who want to relax, but also for those looking for an action-packed holiday! With its bright green hills, rich green valleys and uninterrupted line of golden beaches, Rhodes is truly a blessed place. “The sun island” has more sunshiny days and milder temperatures throughout the year than any other location in Greece. It is, after all, one of the country’s easternmost places and among the first to welcome summer on its impressive beaches. Add in the excellent facilities for tourism, the island’s special blend of cosmopolitan and traditional, and numerous cultural and archaeological sites, the most important being the Medieval (Old) Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you’ve got the perfect holiday destination. While on Rhodes, don’t miss a daytrip to nearby Sými. An island of sponge divers and seamen, Sými used to have 30,000 inhabitants before the Second World War and was the richest island in the Dodecanese, despite its small size. Today, Sými attracts many visitors thanks to its beautifully preserved Neo-Classical buildings and the famous Archangel Michael monastery at Panormitis.

Feature
Oct 11, 2019

Ethiopian Airlines Adds WiFi to A350 Planes

Ethiopian Airlines helps passengers stay connected thanks to new in-flight WiFi service available across most of its Airbus A350 fleet.