Spectacularly situation between Mt. Royal and the St. Lawrence River, Montreal is a favorite among Francophiles and sophisticated globetrotters worldwide with its provocative panache and infectious joie de vivre. The city’s French aura is both audible and visible as Quebecois-style French is widely spoken (most Montrealers are bilingual) and the city’s architecture, ambience and attitude exude a distinctive French flair.

Get an early start by greeting the sunrise at the lookout at Mount Royal Park high above the city. Inaugurated in 1876, this magnificent swath of green is home to many species of birds and plants and crisscrossed by walking and cycling trails. The park was planned by Frederick Law Olmstead, the famed designer who also created New York’s Central Park and Boston’s Emerald Necklace.

Experience the city’s old world charm with a morning stroll along the cobblestone streets of Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal) and the adjoining Vieux Port (Old Port). Many of the well-preserved buildings in this area date from the 17th through the 19th centuries and are open to the public including the Museum of Archaeology and History (350 Place Royale, tel 514 872 9150) which contains exhibits illustrating the city’s early days as a cultural and commercial hub. Those who prefer to ride rather than walk can take a tour by horse-drawn carriage through this historic district where the city’s first European settlement was established in 1642.

It’s a short taxi ride from Vieux Montreal to the city’s modern downtown framed by a sleek skyline where two excellent museums — The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (1379-80 Sherbrooke St. West, tel 514 285 1600) and Canadian Centre for Architecture (1920 Baile St., tel 514 030 7000) enhance the city’s cultural appeal. For some quality shopping head to Ste. Catherine Street where more than 1,200 shops line the expanse between Guy and Berri streets. The city’s penultimate shopping venue — Underground City — lies beneath the surface along the 20 miles of interconnecting subterranean passageways that link eight shopping centers.

Montreal has a well-deserved reputation as one of the gourmet capitals of North America, with nearly 5,000 restaurants, bistros and sidewalk cafes. For breakfast try the St. Viateur Bagel & Café (1127 du Mont-Royal Ave. East, tel 514 528 6361) where hot bagels have been delighting customers since 1957. As noon approaches grab a seat at Schwartz’s (3995 Saint-Laurent Blvd., tel 514 842 4813). A Montreal landmark, Schwartz’s has been serving the best smoked-meat dishes in the city since 1930. Another popular place for lunch is Olive et Gourmando (351 St. Paul East, tel 514 350 1083) where there is a good selection of soups and hearty sandwiches with exquisite espresso chocolate brownies for dessert. At the top of the A-list of dinner choices is Au Pied de Cochon (536 Duluth St. East, tel 514 281 1114), a favorite of chefs throughout the city who join with tourists and Montrealers partaking of local favorites such as fois gras poutine, cassoulet, pigs feet and blood pudding tarts.

Montreal’s vibrant nightlife scene reverberates in and around St. Denis Street and Saint Laurent Boulevard where people-watching is popular pastime. The city has long been a jazz hotspot. Two of the best places to listen and imbibe simultaneously are Modavie Wine Bar Jazz (1 Saint Paul St. West, tel 514 287 9582) and House of Jazz (2060 Aylmer St., tel 514 842 8656).

Just across from the Vieux Port is Ile Notre Dame, a manmade island the site of Expo 67 and now home to the Casino de Montreal (1 du Casino Avenue, tel 514 392 0909). This European-style casino adorned with futuristic spires features a dazzling interior filled with more than 3,000 slot machines, 120 gaming tables and a 500-seat cabaret performance hall where world-class variety shows take the stage nightly.