On a clear day, the newest addition to the Mobile, Ala., skyline can be seen 30 miles away. The 35-story Retirement Systems of Alabama Battle House Tower is the tallest building in the state. (Outside of Houston, it’s the tallest building on the Gulf Coast.) The $165 million project took six years to plan and build, its opening delayed by five hurricanes, including Katrina. The name of the tower recalls two of Alabama’s most interesting entities — the RSA, which manages the state’s pension fund, and the historic Battle House Hotel.

Both have left a lasting imprint upon Mobile.

When RSA CEO Dr. David Bronner set his sights on diversifying the assets of the state pension fund while simultaneously bringing in a new source of revenue, he came up with a plan to develop the largest golf course construction project ever attempted — the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail. The original plan, conceived in the 1980s, called for 378 holes on eight golf courses spanning 100 miles. The project was so successful in attracting both revenue and attention to the region that in 2005 two more courses were added, bringing the total to 432 championship holes on 10 courses. The New York Times calls it “some of the best public golf on Earth.”

As the lavishly designed golf courses attracted positive media attention, lured retirees to the area, increased tourism and boosted the local economy, it became clear that an equally magnificent infrastructure would be need to accommodate visitors. The result is a world-class golf trail complemented by luxury hotels, European-style spas and fine-dining venues.

The Battle House, the newest addition to the trail’s resort collection, is adjacent to the sleek RSA Tower in downtown Mobile. Dating to 1852 and now a member of the Renaissance group of hotels, The Battle House boasts a celebrated history. Long regarded as the epicenter of local society, its grand halls were regularly graced by illustrious figures, from debutantes and captains of industry to American presidents including Grant and Wilson. The hotel eventually closed, remaining dark for more than 30 years. When it reopened last May, more than 5,000 enthusiastic local residents and visitors were on hand waiting patiently to tour the historic property in all its restored grandeur.

But that’s just the beginning. Aerospace contractor EADS recently opened an engineering center in Mobile dedicated to the design of Airbus long-range aircraft, and last May German steelmaker ThyssenKrupp selected the Mobile area as the site for a $3.7-billion steel and stainless steel processing plant. When it opens in 2010, the new facility will employ approximately 2,700 workers. In the meantime, construction-phase activity will create some 29,000 jobs.

And then there’s the pending completion of a new $300 million container port. At a groundbreaking ceremony last year, Alabama Gov. Bob Riley hailed the terminal as one of the state’s key transportation assets. Designed to take advantage of Mobile’s deepwater channels, interstate highway, rail and waterway connections, the new port will begin processing cargo in early 2008.

“Alabama is experiencing unprecedented economic growth that is bringing new jobs and new opportunities to citizens all across our state,” Riley said. “The improvements that are occurring at our port will help create an economy that is even stronger.”

With so much going on — and so much of the activity linked to the creation of new jobs — it’s no wonder CNNMoney named Mobile among its list of top 10 real estate bounceback markets for 2007.

LODGING

THE BATTLE HOUSE, A RENAISSANCE HOTEL

The Battle House Hotel’s lobby — 100-year-old stained glass ceiling, massive trompe l’oeil paintings and reproduction furniture in bright, modern colors — is spectacular. The spacious guestrooms are equally impressive. The bathrooms have separate baths and showers. In the Trellis restaurant, choose to dine beneath the stained-gl ass ceiling or beside the active open kitchen. $$$
26 N. Royal St.
tel 251 338 2000
http://www.rsabattlehouse.com

GRAND HOTEL MARRIOTT RESORT, GOLF CLUB & SPA

Nestled on 550 secluded acres overlooking Mobile Bay, the historic Grand Hotel is one of Alabama’s finest beach resorts. Newly renovated guestrooms feature Marriott’s Revive bedding, complimentary coffee/tea service and newspaper. Play a round on the 36-hole Robert Trent Jones Golf course or unwind at the 20,000-square-foot European spa. Majestic oaks surround the outdoor (adults only) pool. Biking and jogging trails meander through the property. $$$
One Grand Blvd., Point Clear
tel 251 928 9201
http://www.marriott.com

RADISSON ADMIRAL SEMMES HOTEL

The 170 guestrooms at the newly renovated Radisson Admiral Semmes Hotel in downtown Mobile have period reproduction furnishings, marble bathrooms, coffeemakers, desks and complimentary Internet access. Relax in the outdoor heated swimming pool or exercise at the nearby YMCA health club. A 24-hour business center, same-day valet and onsite restaurant complete the list of amenities. $$
251 Government St.
tel 251 432 8000
http://www.radisson.com/mobileal

DINING

NOJA

Rustic brick walls and a romantic courtyard create a comfortable ambiance. The menu is an innovative blend of Mediterranean, Asian and contemporary Gulf Coast flavors that chef/owner Chakli Diggs calls “Mediterrasian.” $$$$
6 N. Jackson St.
tel 251 433 0377
http://www.nojamobile .com

THE WASH HOUSE

Cornmeal-battered fried green tomatoes stuffed with fresh mozzarella tower over shrimp finished with a tomato cream sauce at The Wash House Restaurant. The name is a throwback to the days when the kitchen and wash house were situated behind the main house. $$$$
Highway 98, Point Clear
tel 251 928 4838
http://www.fairhopeeateries.com/TheWashHouse.htm

ORIGINAL OYSTER HOUSE STEAMER

Casual dining on Mobile Bay, the Original Oyster House Steamer has been a favorite with locals for 23 years. Try the homemade gumbo with crabmeat, flounder and shrimp. Entrees come with a selection of down-home side dishes such as turnip greens and cheese grits. $$$
3733 Battleship Parkway
tel 251 626 2188
http://www.originaloysterhouse.com

INFO TO GO

It’s a 20-minute drive from Mobile Regional Airport (MOB) to the downtown Mobile area. The Airport Shuttle (tel 251 633 0313, mobairport.com) provides minibus transportation; rates are $5 to $30 depending upon the destination. The city’s electric trolleys (known as “Moda!”) provide free transportation on a three-mile loop. Stops are marked with green umbrellas.

DIVERSIONS

Begin your tour of Mobile at Fort Conde (tel 251 208 7569), a partial replica of an original 18th-century French fort located downtown adjacent to the city’s welcome center. Costumed guides lead tours. Catch an IMAX movie at the Gulf Coast Exploreum (tel 251 208 6873). A regional science center with interactive displays and a full-scale chemistry lab, the Exploreum attracts visitors of all ages. The 95,000-square-foot Mobile Museum of Art (tel 251 208 5200) has American, European, Asian and African art, as well as special exhibits. Tour the USS Alabama battleship (tel 251 433 2703), winner of nine World War II battle stars.

Mobile Bay is also the birthplace of the nation’s Mardi Gras. Celebrate the two-and-a-half weeks prior to Ash Wednesday with more than 35 parades in historic downtown. If you aren’t in town during Mardi Gras, get the royal treatment at the Mobile Carnival Museum (tel 251 432 3324).

Feel like some fresh air? The 5 Rivers: Alabama’s Delta Resource Center (tel 251 625 0814) is Mobile’s 250,000-acre outdoor facility for recreation, conservation and land stewardship. Walk on the wild side at Alligator Alley (tel 251 946 2483), where visitors can see more than 100 of the critters in their natural habitat, or explore the 16 0-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary (tel 251 861 3607) on Dauphin Island.

Less than 30 minutes from Mobile, Bellingrath Gardens (tel 251 973 2217) is a popular garden estate that encompasses 65 acres of camellias, azaleas, roses, chrysanthemums and much more. Visitors are invited to take self-guided tours of the gardens, experience the Bayou Boardwalk, marvel at Mirror Lake, view the Asian-American Gardens, stroll through the Butterfly Garden and board the Southern Belle for a 45-minute cruise along Fowl River. Built in 1935, the Bellingrath Home was chosen as the first home in Alabama to appear on A&E’s America’s Castles.

The charming town of Fairhope is 20 minutes from downtown Mobile. Containers filled with flowers and baskets bursting with blooms line the sidewalks of the town, which is known for artists and authors. Stroll and shop Fairhope’s one-of-a-kind galleries and boutiques.

At Home with Judson ‘Judy’ Culbreth, Editorial Director, Mobile Bay Monthly

Global Traveler: You enjoyed a successful career in the New York publishing world, including stints as executive director at Redbook and Working Mother. What brought you back to Mobile?

Judy Culbreth: When my husband and I visited Fairhope and Mobile for my mother’s 70th birthday, six years ago, he fell in love with the area. We were both ready to head back South (he’s from Atlanta). On a subsequent trip, we looked at property and bought a lot on Week’s Bay, outside of Fairhope. We built a guesthouse, which we used as a vacation house for a couple of years. We hadn’t planned to leave New York/New Jersey as soon as we did. However, when I got a job offer with Mobile Bay Monthly, we stepped up our plan.

GT: Was it difficult readjusting to life in the South?

JC: It was an easy adjustment, except for driving. But I’ve certainly had practice now. It actually feels very natural to be back. I love driving down familiar streets, and it has been wonderful to get to know Fairhope. We feel as if we’re on permanent vacation.

GT: You’ve been working in Mobile during an exciting time for the city. What are some of the most interesting new developments?

JC: Mobile and Baldwin Counties are at a turning point. There is so much growth and potential growth, but residents want to preserve what we treasure … [so many people are] working to preserve the environment, quality of life, the arts and education. You feel you can make a difference here.

GT: What do you enjoy most about living in the Mobile area?

JC: I most enjoy the people — artists and activists — and reconnecting with my extended family and friends … I’m also stunned by the physical beauty. I wake up to herons squawking. I catch the sunrise on my commute across the Bay. When we [recline in] our hanging bed on the porch, it’s as if we’re in a tree house — a canopy of oaks surrounds us.

I also enjoy having a home, which I had not experienced in my adult life. Everyone our age is scaling back — we’ve done the exact opposite. We have five guest bedrooms. My porch is bigger than my living room was in Manhattan. My closet is bigger than my son’s old bedroom. I have no regrets — except for restaurants and friends I miss — in leaving the high-rise, co-op lifestyle.

GT: Tell us your favorite way to spend a day in Mobile.

JC: People are surprised by the beauty of the homes in Mobile and the quaintness of Fairhope. Guests love to see houses along the main streets — Dauphin, Government and Old Shell Road. Neighborhoods such as Oakleigh, Ashland Place and Monterey Place have amazing trees and homes. Friends also enjoy the little shops, restaurants and galleries in Fairhope. Nobody leaves without a visit to Mobile’s Dew Drop Inn and Wintzell’s. My brother-in-law drives down from Kentucky, every other mont h almost, just for the 25-cent oysters at Wintzell’s. Our friends also like to golf at Lakewood and fish on the rivers or in the Gulf. Our kids and their friends enjoy the beach at Gulf Shores.