Situated on the west coast of Luzon, the largest of the 7,107 islands that make up the Philippines, Manila is a blend of the Occident and the Orient, shaped by a mix of Asian, European and American influences. The sprawling multi-ethnic metropolis of 12 million is the capital of the third largest English-speaking nation in the world (after the United States and Great Britain) and one of the leading commercial centers in Southeast Asia.

Nearly destroyed by extensive Japanese bombing during World War II, Manila rebuilt its infrastructure, and by the 1960s had become one of Asia’s emerging success stories. The city suffered a severe setback during the authoritarian regime of Ferdinand Marcos, who, after being elected in 1965, declared martial law in 1972 and ruled with an iron fist until his ouster in 1986. During the late 1990s, the Philippines came through the Asian monetary crisis relatively unscathed, compared with many of its neighbors. In recent years, the economy has registered modest annual growth of between 3 and 4 percent, while inflation has remained at about 5 percent.

Philippine President Gloria Arroyo is currently facing accusations of vote-rigging during the most recent election. The controversy has brought on anti-government demonstrations, and some members of the legislature have called upon Arroyo to resign. Political turmoil is not new to the Philippines: The previous president, Joseph Estrada, resigned from office in 2001 after being impeached for “the capital offense of economic plunder.” But, despite its roller-coaster politics, the Philippines remains a steadfast U.S. ally.

An easy-going, fun-loving people, Filipinos are exceptionally warm and hospitable hosts who gladly welcome Americans to their homeland. English is the common, unifying language of commerce, education and tourism, which makes Manila especially “user-friendly” for Americans. Major industries include electrical products, dolomite and copper mining, industrial-parts assembly, rattan and wicker furniture, and clothing manufacture. Manila also has emerged as a major center of outsourcing for U.S. corporations involved in computers and other high-tech and Internet-related industries, with call centers springing up throughout the city.

Americans doing business here typically head to the area in Manila known as Makati City, the financial and business district. Many of Manila’s largest domestic banks and business enterprises are located here, adjacent to top-of-the-line hotels that cater to business travelers. Besides being Manila’s financial hub and its most prestigious business address, Makati is home to foreign embassies and the plush residential area of Forbes Park, noted for its elite Manila Polo Club and Manila Golf Club. Makati is also a prime shopping and nightlife area replete with gigantic supermalls, fashionable restaurants and pulsing discos.

Business etiquette is similar to what you’d encounter in the United States. Both formal and informal discussions take place over lunch or dinner in hotels or restaurants. While it’s acceptable to be up to 30 minutes late for social appointments, punctuality is expected for business meetings. It’s also appropriate to exchange small gifts such as chocolates or cakes.

A good way to get acquainted with Manila is on an escorted half-day (four hours) tour by motor coach, which provides an excellent overview of the city while focusing attention on some of its most important sites. The highlight of the tour is a guided walk through Intramuros, the famed walled city built by the Spanish at the mouth of the Pasig River soon after their arrival here in 1571. Intramuros subsequently served as the capital and seat of Spanish sovereignty in the Orient for more than 300 years, until the Spanish were ousted in 1898. While much of Intramuros was reduced to rubble during the Battle of Manila in 1945, several structures of historic significance have been preserved or restored. Centuries-old San Agu stin Church, completed in 1606, has miraculously remained virtually untouched by fires, earthquakes and the bombardment of World War II. One of four Philippine baroque churches on the UNESCO World Heritage List, San Agustin is the oldest stone church in metro Manila.

Nearby stands imposing Fort Santiago, a restored garrison that served as the Spanish military headquarters and later came under the control of Japanese and American forces. It was here, during World War II, that hundreds of men and women were jailed, tortured and killed by the Japanese military police. The fort was subsequently destroyed by the Americans in the Battle of Manila. Following the war, the fort was eventually restored and turned into a public park filled with gardens, restaurants, art galleries, souvenir shops and a theater. Also of interest in Intramuros is the grand Manila Cathedral, the sixth to be built on the site since 1581, and Casa Manila, a reconstructed colonial home offering a glimpse of what life was like for the rich and privileged during the heyday of Spanish rule.

Another place of special interest is the Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, a moving tribute to the U.S. servicemen who paid the ultimate price during World War II. More than 17,000 American soldiers who died in battle in the Philippines are buried beneath headstones arranged in concentric circles on this 152-acre site.

The tour concludes with a drive down Roxas Boulevard, which passes through the Bay Area, where — if you time it right — you’ll get to view a brilliant Manila sunset.

LODGING

MANILA HOTEL

The city’s most famous hotel is to Manila what the Raffles is to Singapore and the Oriental is to Bangkok. Since opening in 1912, the Manila Hotel has hosted everyone from Ernest Hemingway to the Beatles. It served as the temporary home of Gen. Douglas MacArthur for six years. (MacArthur’s suite has been preserved and contains museum-quality artifacts; it is usually occupied by diplomats and presidents.) The hotel is a tourist attraction in itself, so visitors are often seen milling about in the lobby or dining in one of the restaurants. A favorite is the Cowrie Grill, which is uniquely decorated with 7,107 cowrie shells — one for each island in the Philippines. Nostalgia buffs should request a room in the original building, where the recently renovated guest quarters on floors six through 11 are richly furnished and retain much of the atmosphere of the hotel’s golden days. Each of these rooms has a view of either Manila Bay or the Club Intramuros Golf Course. $$$$
MANILA HOTEL
1 Rizal Park
tel 63 2 527 0011, fax 63 2 527 0022
http://www.manila-hotel.com.ph

MAKATI SHANGRI-LA, MANILA

This 700-room luxury hotel in the heart of Makati City is a favorite among international business executives for its location combined with top-of-the-line amenities and services. Guests staying on the hotel’s executive floor, Horizons Club, have access to an exclusive lounge where they enjoy breakfast, high tea and cocktails daily. The lounge also offers a separate meeting room and computers with Internet access. Horizons Club guestrooms feature fax machines, CD players, ergonomically designed chairs and separate work areas. The hotel also has one of the best-equipped health clubs in the city, with a variety of exercise and weight machines along with a Jacuzzi, steam room and massage facilities. There is also a terrific choice of food and beverage outlets, including Filipino, Chinese, Thai, and Japanese restaurants, plus a fine-dining French restaurant. $$$
MAKATI SHANGRI-LA, MANILA
Ayala and Makati avenues
tel 63 2 813 8888, fax 63 2 813 5499
http://www.shangri-la.com

INTERCONTINENTAL MANILA
Less expensive than other high-end hotels in the Makati district, the InterContinental Manila offers attentive service and above-average amenities. There is an excellent swimming pool and a gym, along with a 24-hour business center and 24-hour room service. Guest who book a room on the executive floor have access to an impressive non-smoking lounge where breakfast is served daily from 6:30 to 11 a.m. Afternoon tea is served fr om 3 to 5 p.m., and evening cocktails are served from 6 to 8 p.m. The hotel’s dining venues — Jeepney Coffee Shop and Prince Albert — are quality, inexpensive restaurants. Euphoria is one of the city’s most popular discos. $$$
INTERCONTINENTAL MANILA
1 Ayala Ave.
tel 63 2 815 9711, fax 63 2 817 1330
http://www.interconti.com

DINING

LE SOUFFLÉ

Specializing in innovative French-Filipino cuisine, this Manila institution is universally regarded as one of the city’s ultimate dining experiences. Its stylish yet unpretentious ambience allows for casual attire, and it is definitely the place to go to impress a client. Besides superb soufflés — the chocolate soufflé will knock your socks off — other tasty dishes include rack of lamb, confit de canard, pan-fried goose liver and grilled lapu-lapu, a local whitefish related to grouper, topped by a tomato-tarragon vinaigrette. $$$
LE SOUFFLÉ
Josephine Building
Makati Avenue at West Drive
tel 63 2 812 3287

KASHMIR

Locals and expats alike flock to this quiet, dimly lit space known for its vegetable and rice concoctions such as kesu pullao, a tasty saffron-seasoned rice dish. Chicken tandoori is another favorite. Most main courses come with an assortment of mango chutney, mint sauce and a spicy crushed-pickle-and-ginger dip. Carnivores should try the lamb chops in a mild mushroom sauce. $$
KASHMIR
Padre Faura
tel 63 2 524 6851

NIGHTLIFE

While New York is known as the “city that never sleeps,” Manila’s vibrant late-hours scene is one of the hottest in Asia, attracting night owls and other party animals who stay up well into the wee hours. Most places don’t get going until 10 p.m. at the earliest. Upscale Makati City is known for attracting a trendy, well-dressed crowd of partyphiles. A favorite hangout of Manila’s beautiful people, Venezia Bar (Glorietta II, Ayala Center, tel 63 2 845 1732) is where you can do some quality people-watching — from one of the plush art nouveau bar chairs — while Jools (5043 Burgos St., Makati, tel 63 2 897 9097) stages the city’s best cabaret show. Those seeking a more artistic, bohemian atmosphere will want to check out the bars and clubs along Remedios Circle, Nakpil Street and Maria Orosa Street in the Malate district, where the entertainers run the gamut from standup comics to folksingers to jazz musicians.

INFO TO GO

Downtown Manila is just five miles from Ninoy Aquino International Airport (MNL). Taxis from the airport to downtown cost about $6, while a shuttle bus is $2.50. Taxis are inexpensive, reliable and available everywhere in the city. A typical fare for a short-haul taxi ride is $1 to $1.50. For a unique experience, hop aboard a “jeepney,” a distinctive kind of vehicle constructed from abandoned WWII jeeps. Found throughout the city, the jeepneys each sport a strikingly creative paint job. It costs just a few Filipino pesos to go considerable distances in a jeepney, although the seating is often cramped and there is minimal leg room. For more information, contact the Philippine Tourism Office at 213 487 4525, or visit http://www.wowphilippines.com.ph