Founded by the Spanish in 1571 on the site of an earlier Malay trading town, the walled city of Manila became the capital of the island colony the Spanish named the Philippines. Built on an isthmus facing sheltered waters that offered easy access to the South China Sea, Manila provided an ever-busy port for the galleons that carried the wealth of Asia back to Acapulco and then on to Spain.

Today’s Manila is actually an urban mix of many politically separate municipalities and districts with a population of more than 12 million, with additional millions in the adjacent suburbs. Metro Manila includes a central core of districts that is the political, cultural, industrial, business and social heart of the country, a hub for commerce and finance that generates nearly one-third of the entire Philippine gross domestic product, attracting business people and investors from around the world.

For the business traveler, the city of Makati, site of the city’s former main airport, U.S.-built Neilsen Field (the old control tower is a Makati landmark), represents Manila at its most modern and prosperous. Home to the city’s best hotels and restaurants, its neon-lit side streets with strip clubs and restaurants are frequented by expats on holiday.

Makati is relatively convenient to other parts of the city, including the airport, historic Intramuros and Binondo, shopping at Greenhills and business districts like Quezon City and Pasig City. As far as business travelers are concerned, none match Makati, with most high-profile companies and banks headquartered here. In terms of attractions, Makati has little to offer aside from the American Cemetery and the Ayala Museum (Makati Avenue at De La Rosa Street, tel 63 2 757 7117, http://www.ayalamuseum.org). Founded and funded by one of the country’s wealthiest and most influential business dynasties responsible for much of Makati’s seismic growth, its permanent exhibits include 50-plus dioramas that trace the country’s history, providing a context for today’s political and economic environment.

Two decades of development have provided the city with explosive growth. Its configuration of high-rise office towers and apartment buildings separated by residential districts gives the city one of the world’s highest population densities and a guarantee of congested streets and legendary traffic.

Roxas Boulevard faces Manila Bay, providing the city with a promenade particularly popular at the end of day, when the heat dissipates and the sunset paints the sky with vibrant color. The American embassy and the historic Manila Hotel (One Rizal Park, 0913, tel 63 2 527 0011, http://www.manila-hotel.com.ph), where General MacArthur established himself at the end of World War II, are located here, as is the new Manila Ocean Park (tel 63 2 567 7777), a worldclass aquarium with walk-through viewing tanks and a fascinating collection of exotic sea life.

While civic charm is in short supply, Manila generates a vibrant energy made appealing by the warmth of the Filipino people, whose ready smiles belie concerns over inflationary pressures highlighted by the fast-rising cost of rice and other staples. Happily for Americans, who are generally well liked here, the dollar has maintained more of its value against the peso than it has against many other foreign currencies, making hotels, dining and shopping relative bargains.

LODGING

MAKATI SHANGRI-LA HOTEL

Manila Some consider this 699-room high-rise hotel Manila’s finest. Spacious rooms offer chic, modern décor, wood laminate walls and a 25-inch entertainment system. Horizon Club services include a dedicated concierge, late check-out and broadband Internet service. In addition to acclaimed restaurants, facilities include a 24-hour health club and a full-service spa, outdoor pool, tennis courts and business center.$  $$$
MAKATI SHANGRI-LA HOTEL
Ayala and Makati avenues, 1220 Makati City
tel 63 2 813 8888
http://www.shangri-la.com/en/property/manila/makatishangrila

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MANILA

The layout is convenient, the feel more intimate than grandiose, and the service is first-rate, with a friendly staff that aims to please. Guestrooms are spacious, comfortable and equipped with multi-function communications services. Three Mandarin Oriental Club floors offer elegantly decorated guestrooms, a dedicated work station in The Oriental Club and three boardrooms available for guest use. In addition to several excellent restaurants and an extensive breakfast buffet, there is a fully equipped business center. The large and inviting outdoor pool is complemented by the two-story spa with treatment rooms for massage, aromatherapy and the like.$$$$
MANDARIN ORIENTAL MANILA
Makati Avenue, 1226 Makati City
tel 63 2 750 8888
http://www.mandarinoriental.com

THE PENINSULA MANILA

The look of classic elegance prevails at this newly upgraded property, starting with a nicely attired staff, a grand-scale lobby and guestrooms where dark woods, rattan furnishings and appealing neutral tones provide a relaxing environment, with flat-screen televisions, broadband Internet and other in-room communications conveniences. The Club offers two boardrooms, an executive lounge, complimentary dining options, a satellite business center and butler services. Facilities include four restaurants, a spa and fitness center with steam room, sauna, cold plunge and whirlpool tub.$$$$
THE PENINSULA MANILA
Ayala and Makati avenues, 1226 Makati City
tel 63 2 887 8888
http://www.manila.peninsula.com/tpm/contact.html

DINING

RED

This signature restaurant at the Shangri- La Hotel is a popular choice for business travelers who appreciate both the quality of the innovative European cuisine and spaciousness that provides privacy and a quiet atmosphere for a business breakfast, lunch or dinner. One suspects that the beautifully uniformed servers were chosen for their elegant good looks.$$$$
RED
Ayala and Makati avenues, Makati
tel 63 2 813 8888

SALA

This small restaurant gets raves for both the innovative Euro-style cuisine and presentation. Candlelit tables, with al fresco seating a pleasant option, are complemented by elaborate floral displays.$$$
SALA
610 J Nakpil St., Makati 1004
tel 63 2 524 6770

LA TIENDA

Authentic Spanish food is the specialty in this moderately priced, informal restaurant popular with Manila’s Spanish community and other expats. The décor provides provincial charm, while strolling musicians add to the relaxed and convivial atmosphere. Try the steak a la pobre, fresh fish baked in olive oil and garlic, or one of several types of paella, accompanied by a selection from the extensive list of Spanish wines.$$$
LA TIENDA
43 Polaris St., Bel-Air, Makati
tel 63 2 890 4123

DIVERSIONS

Manila’s attractions are not centrally located. Even the branches of government are located in different parts of Metro Manila. Malacanang Palace, the president’s residence (partially open to the public), is in the San Miguel district, while the Senate meets in Pasay City and the House of Representatives in Quezon City.

Intramuros

(“inside the walls”) lies to the west, offering a glimpse of what once made Manila the Pearl of the Orient, its cobbled streets quiet and uncrowded. This heart of Spanish Manila is home to historic gems like the San Agustin Church and Monasteryand Casa Manila, a restored Chinese merchant’s home. Fort Santiago, complete with dungeons and walls, anchors Intramuros on the Pasig River, with Binondo on the other side.

Even before the Spanish arrived, Chinese and Malay traders from mainland Asia had established themselves in the area, and their descendants remain a component of the city’s ethnic mix. The Chinese Cemetery, several miles north of Chinatown proper, presents an elaborate mix of tombs, some resembling homes, complete with balconies and swimming pools.

Shopping at one of Manila’s mega-malls is indeed a uniquely Philippine experience, as much for the crowds they attract as for the goods for sale. Makati offers the >Glorietta Mall, but if time permits the Mall of Asia, ther the sun, sprawls along the world’s third-largest and home to every name brand unde shores of Manila Bay, providing Filipinos with a place to go for air-conditioned comfort from a climate that is tropically humid year round.

The Greenhills Mall offers a similar refuge, with high-end shops neighbor to stalls piled high with pearls of every color and description at prices that are a fraction of their cost in the United States. The pearl vendors, almost entirely Muslim women from the southern Philippines, add a colorful sense of place to a visit. Prepare to bargain, even when prices already seem incredibly reasonable.

INFO TO GO

Ninoy Aquino International Airport (MNL) is located four miles south of Manila. Jeepneys (converted military jeeps) and buses connect the terminals. Metro Manila offers frequent and reasonably priced transportation to the city center. Taxis are another option. Traffic can wreak havoc with transfers, with average travel time ranging from 30 minutes to upwards of two hours during peak times. Arrange taxi service at one of the taxi desks before leaving the airport. Flagging down an airport taxi is not advised.

Manila’s narrow roads and congestion make it a difficult city to navigate. A ride from one part of the city to another can easily take 30 to 40 minutes, longer if gridlock takes over. Metered cabs are abundant and inexpensive. Make sure the meter is triggered when the ride begins. Taxi drivers are amenable to providing hourly rates that include wait-time should you want to assure convenience. In neighborhoods like Binondo or Intramuros, callesas — horse-drawn carts — are still widely used and provide enjoyable travel or touring.