Boasting Colorado’s largest ski mountain and a charming, distinctly European vibe, Vail has become synonymous with stellar skiing and outdoor adventure on tap year-round. While I love Vail covered in powder, I recently made the drive up for an autumn visit to reacquaint myself with the area and enjoy the brilliant, deep gold blankets of aspens covering the mountainside slopes — an experience I highly recommend.

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First, settle in at the luxurious, award-winning Sonnenalp Hotel, a cornerstone in Vail’s ski village concept. Offering a selection of luxury suites and large guestrooms overlooking Vail Village or Gore Creek, this property is run by the Faessler family, who founded it five generations ago as the American mountain-based edition of their successful hotel in Germany. The welcoming Bavarian ambience extends from the plush rooms with fireplaces and balconies to the magnificent breakfast buffet served at Ludwig’s Terrace. Opt for a table in the glassed conservatory area (open to the sky during warm months), and savor your meal while delighting in views of the lovely grounds.

While skiing is certainly a seasonal draw, visits to Vail during non-snow months offer opportunities ranging from hiking and mountain biking to golf at Sonnenalp’s semi-private, 7,100-yard championship golf course. There’s also trekking with llamas, horseback riding through aspen-covered slopes, yoga with goats, bluegrass and jazz festivals, and world-class entertainment at Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater.

Sonnenalp © Vail Local Marketing District

High-end shopping is steps away from the resort, where wide pedestrian avenues meander through the village. Once back at Sonnenalp, head to the expansive spa for a soak and body therapy. Modeled on Europe’s finest water-based wellness retreats, there are heated indoor and outdoor pools, whirlpool baths, and a riverfront sun terrace. In the spa, guests will find a tranquil space with separate men’s and women’s saunas and steam baths, and an excellent selection of massages, facials and wellness therapies. Waiting for your therapist is a relaxing experience thanks to plush seating around a central fireplace in the spa lobby.

Opportunities to nourish yourself on another level abound with a wonderful selection of stellar dining establishments in Vail Village. Here’s where I dined during my visit:

Mountain Standard © Vail Local Marketing District

Mountain Standard

For mouthwatering wood-fired cuisine, this is the best address in town. Located creek side in the Village, this low-key eatery is under the direction of Chef McLean Hyde, who uses an alchemy of live wood fire and creative seasonings to turn out menu items such as duck confit poutine, rotisserie lamb gyros and, my own favorite, the Cubano. Loaded with rotisserie mojo pork shoulder, Parisian ham, gruyere cheese, dill pickles and grain mustard aioli, it’s amazingly satisfying. Be sure to begin your meal with a bowl of Gary’s Clam Chowdah, with smoked clams, Benton’s ham and garlic sourdough croutons. There’s even a raw bar, where you can enjoy ahi tuna tataki, oysters on the half shell and Loch Duart salmon crudo. 

La Nonna Ristorante

At La Nonna Ristorante (reopening Nov. 19 for the snow season), local restauranteurs Luc and Liz Meyer, Simone Reatti and Mira Hozzova Cupka brought a little bit of Italy to the Rocky Mountains. The friendly, happy atmosphere is divine, the perfect backdrop to Rigatoni Arrabbiata e Salsiccia with Italian sausage, mild arrabbiata sauce and ricotta salata. Every pasta on the menu is made fresh, in-house each day with authentic Pivetti flour from Italy. Everything was so delicious, I was tempted to order a bowl of gnocchi for dessert.

Sweet Basil © Vail Local Marketing District

Sweet Basil

Sweet Basil is a pedigreed kitchen team that includes Executive Chef/Partner Paul Anders, Chef de Cuisine Will Edwards and Executive Sous Chef Travis Culver who recently had their skills recognized with a MICHELIN Recommendation, while Managing Partner Jessenia Sanabria was the winner of the 2024 MICHELIN Guide Colorado Exceptional Cocktails Award. A standard in Vail Village for more than four decades, Sweet Basil delivers a menu of impeccable, creative fare that shifts with the seasons. I love the whipped feta with ginger hibiscus honey for a starter, followed by the saffron cannelloni stuffed with buttered lump crab, tomato raisins, smoked tomato butter, tarragon and basil. Save room for dessert and try local favorites, including Sweet Basil’s decadent sticky toffee pudding cake with Meyer’s Rum sauce, served with brown sugar rum ice cream and peanut brittle. Once you’re home again, you can visit the restaurant’s website for cooking tips provided by the kitchen team.

Bully Ranch

If you’re looking for a great Western steak, burger or protein, Bully Ranch delivers. Located at street level in Sonnenalp Resort, menu options include a 16-ounce, wet-aged Fitch Farms ribeye, along with Bully beef fajitas, Bully bourbon burger, brick-pressed natural chicken and crispy whole Riverence Farms trout. Starters include wild boar green chili, Fat Tire-braised PEI mussels and the restaurant’s signature truffle tots. No chance you’re leaving hungry. If you took my advice and booked your suite at Sonnenalp, you only have to walk as far as the lobby.