Visitors to the south of France are lured to St. Paul-de-Vence, the medieval, walled village perché with its steep, narrow, shop-studded, cobblestone alleyways leading to the ramparts overlooking flower-strewn hillsides down to the Mediterranean. For me, the town’s major claim to fame has always been the restaurant Colombe d’Or, a Riviera icon, where, for more than 30 years, I have loved lunching at the family-owned, art-filled auberge.
In 1990, when I made my first foray to visit museums in and around Nice, the restaurant was as much an art venue as nearby Fondation Maeght, a privately held museum. That first lunch was so memorable Colombe d’Or has remained my go-to Provençal restaurant, where I book a table as soon as my flights to Nice Cote d’Azur are confirmed. My memories include meals with my late husband; my eldest daughter; a good friend; my granddaughter; and Val, my childhood pal. It’s always magical to eat amidst paintings, sculptures, stabiles and ceramic murals and to enjoy culinary pleasures reflecting straightforward, house-made regional dishes that best represent locally sourced, farm-fresh ingredients.
On my most recent meal at Colombe d’Or this May, Val and I dined on the outdoor terrace, facing the vibrant, ceramic mosaic mural Fernand Léger created, framed by a vine-covered entry wall that separates the idyllic calm of the restaurant from the street. My 19-year-old granddaughter, Emma, and I sat at a similar table in 2015, when she let me taste her appetizer of grilled, local sweet peppers bathed in olive oil.
As usual, the waiter brought the multicolored, hand-written menu Paul Roux had designed; soft bread with a crisp crust; sweet local butter; and a little bowl filled with perfect, black Niçoise olives. Then, we shared Panier de Crudités, which arrived in a natural basket filled with tiny mushrooms, baby cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, teeny radishes, celery stalks, an artichoke and an endive, accompanied by a garlicky aioli.

© Irvina Lew
As I saw the waiter deliver asparagus to a nearby table, I recalled dining indoors, in 2018, with my daughter and I sitting side-by-side against an outside wall, while noticing the waiter carrying a platter of fat, white asparagus spears topped with a maize-colored Mornay drizzle. Of course, we ordered them. On this day, the asperges were fat and green and served with a light-as-air, creamy golden sauce. Suffice to say, I enjoyed them once again.
More often than not, I share the main dish I love best: the whole grilled fish. Part of that pleasure is watching the server debone it at the table. Using two forks, he precisely carved the herb-topped, olive-oil scented fish; moved the herbs away from the body; removed the head and tail; trimmed the sides; divided it for two; and served it on a plate garnished with a simple, parsley-studded, boiled potato and half lemon. Valerie only eats salmon, but instead of her usual smoked salmon, she ordered the bubbling, garlicky Escargots de Bourgogne. I splurged on a calorically and gastronomically rich foie gras from Landes, and received a plate with two thick slices of juicy seared foie gras on fresh vegetables, sided by a sauce touched with sweetness.
For dessert, we shared the house special, the Tarte de la Mère Roux; an apple-topped, delicately crusted delight named for and dedicated to Babtistine Roux, the “mother” who originally baked the traditional open-faced apple pie. Then, we had the pleasure of meeting Danielle Roux, working in the family business for 40 years.

© Irvina Lew
As usual, I lingered while walking toward the stairs and, en route, glanced into the front dining room to observe and absorb the beauty of the paintings; I admired paintings hung between arched windows with wooden shutters and stepped inside the white, stucco-walled room centered with a sunken cement banquette surrounding the fireplace.
Place du General de Gaulle
06570 Saint-Paule-de-Vence
France
tel 33 4 93 32 80 02
Read This Next
All Reads on This Topic
Read Them All

Introducing
FX Excursions
FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.
#globility
Insta FeedApril 2025
Apr 21, 2025Unwind Year-Round in Switzerland’s Charming Resort Towns
The best-known towns in the Swiss Alps are the ski resorts of Zermatt and St. Moritz, but skiing isn’t their only attraction. Winter or summer, you can expect a lively nightlife scene. Known for its posh hotels, St. Moritz was well-established as a year- round resort even before it hosted the Winter Olympics in 1928.
Sponsored Content
Royal Air Maroc Marks Five Years with oneworld: Strengthening Connectivity Between USA and Africa and Expanding Global Reach
Royal Air Maroc proudly enters its fifth year as a member of the prestigious oneworld alliance. Since joining in April 2020, RAM has demonstrated resilience during the COVID-19 pandemic, emerging as a dynamic airline that enhanced its digital services and expanded its network. The airline plans to grow its fleet to 200 aircraft by 2037, reinforcing its global presence.
Daily
Apr 21, 2025Alisal Ranch, California, Launches Culinary Bootcamps
Horses, California sunshine and great food are on the menu at luxurious Alisal Ranch in Solvang, located on 10,500 acres in the gorgeous Santa Ynez Valley. Throughout the year, guests can look forward to a great selection of programs designed in partnership with Chef’s Roll, a culinary community comprised of MICHELIN-starred chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, culinary students and hospitality industry professionals. Events at the ranch will include a BBQ Bootcamp May 4–6, and a BBQ University from Sept. 2 to 5.
Daily
Apr 21, 20257 Luxury Hotels for Mocktails
These seven luxury properties around the world offer sober and sober-curious travelers standout mocktail selections.
Sponsored Content
A Summer Sojourn Along Europe’s Rivers with AmaWaterways
This summer, elevate your vacation experience with award-winning AmaWaterways. Offering a seamless blend of unparalleled luxury, authentic cultural experiences and unrivaled service, AmaWaterways cruises are the perfect way to uncover the heart of Europe during the sunniest season with itineraries that glide along the continent’s most iconic rivers, including the Danube, the Rhine, the Seine and the Douro.
Slideshow
Apr 21, 20257 Reasons to Put Richmond, Virginia, on Your Travel List
It’s time to start dreaming of your next trip. Here’s some destination inspiration for you. Take a visual journey through Richmond, Virginia, with us.
Grand Hyatt Atlanta Buckhead Completes Renovation
Daily
Apr 18, 2025Daily
Apr 17, 2025Embark on a Whale Sharks and Dragons Expedition Aboard “Prana by Atzaro”
Hand-built of iron and teak using traditional boat building practices (and steeped in luxury), Prana by Atzaro — a traditional sailing vessel known as a phinisi — can comfortably accommodate up to 18 people in nine sumptuous stateroom suites. Experience this unique sailing experience yourself on board the stunning yacht during a new seven-night, eight-day Whale Sharks and Dragons Expedition.
Sponsored Content
Royal Air Maroc Introduces Groundbreaking Safety Video: A Captivating Invitation to Discover Moroccan Heritage
Royal Air Maroc continues to elevate the passenger experience with the launch of its new in-flight safety video — a cinematic journey that seamlessly blends essential safety instructions with a celebration of Moroccan cultural heritage.
Daily
Apr 17, 2025United Airlines Launches Direct Flights from Newark to Madeira, Faro
We’re calling it now: Portugal is going to be the destination of the summer thanks to a new partnership between Madeira Promotion Bureau, VisitAlgarve and United Airlines. These destinations are excited to announce the launch of two new direct flights routes from Newark (EWR) to Portugal’s Madeira (FNC) and Faro (FAO).
ShareThis