Holding a draft of caramel-colored liquid up to the light, Helio, the sommelier, asks, “What do you taste?”
I inhale once more, deeply, and take a small sip of the tawny Port wine, urging my senses to identify something beyond the inherent sweetness of the alcohol.
“Roasted coffee beans,” offers a distinguished-looking gentleman seated across from my husband at the long wooden table.
“Toffee?” I say, more as a question than a statement. Helio nods. “Exactly.”
We are seated in the Wine Library at the Six Senses Douro Valley, a meticulously restored 19th-century manor house in Portugal’s (and the world’s) oldest demarcated wine region. Hugging the curves of the Douro River a 90-minute drive east from Porto, the terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley have produced and traded the world’s Port wine since the 18th century, when British traders turned to Portugal for wine during a conflict with France. Before sending red wines down the river, Portuguese vintners fortified them with brandy so they would keep on the long journey back to England, thus creating Port wine.
Though for centuries the UNESCO World Heritage region was known only for producing Port, its renown is growing for excellent reds and whites. (In 2014, Wine Spectator listed three Douro Valley wines among its top five in the world, and only one was a Port.) In addition to a vast list of respected quintas (estates) increasingly drawing enotourism, the valley boasts a spate of elegant new restaurants and hotels and stunning landscapes of terraced vineyards dotted with olive and almond trees.
Among them, the Six Senses Douro Valley debuted last fall as the first Six Senses resort in Europe. Perched atop a vine-covered hill overlooking the river, it’s the latest in eco-chic, featuring 50 guestrooms and 21 villas with floor-to-ceiling views of the surrounding woods and river, a sleek spa offering grape-derived treatments, and a restaurant that sources produce from the on-site organic garden.
Though our wine vocabulary rarely extends beyond red versus white, sweet versus dry, my husband and I decide to make the most of our weekend in the valley with all manner of wine-centric activities, starting with a Complete Grape Rejuvenation at the resort’s award-winning spa.
Inspired by the antioxidant properties of grapes, the treatment begins with a dry skin brushing to stimulate and exfoliate the skin. Next, the aesthetician spreads a cool clay that combines grape pulp and grape seed oil over my body before wrapping me in a moisture-sealing covering to allow the body mask to soak in. Lying in the warm, dim room with the sound of rain trickling down the windows, I feel a bit like a seedling being carefully coaxed to sprout within a greenhouse.
After the treatment is complete and the body mask removed, I retire to the pool and sauna area to make a circuit between the half-dozen dry saunas, aromatic steam rooms and relaxation areas. In addition to pampering treatments, the spa offers a range of wellness options including yoga classes, detoxifying regimens and consultations with holistic health experts — a welcome balance to the all-out indulgence that otherwise accompanies a wine-tasting weekend.
Since one of the highlights of the Douro region is the river itself, which flows from Soria Province in northern Spain to its outlet in Porto, one of the most popular ways for tourists to enjoy the valley is by boat cruise. When the rainy spring weather clears after lunch, revealing blue skies and piles of cumulus clouds, we decide to take advantage of the hotel’s Wine with a View boat tour.
Along with our private Six Senses sommelier, we board the Pipadouro, a retired 1950s British naval boat outfitted in polished wood with gleaming instruments and even a silver tea set. As the boat pulls away from the dock, we settle into deck chairs on the prow and sip the first chilled white wine the sommelier, Pedro, produces from his picnic basket.
“This is a Quinta do Crasto Douro White,” he says, showing us the label and gesturing with his opposite hand to the bank of the river, “which is produced on the estate you see there at the top of the hill.”
As we glide past one terraced vineyard after another, each topped with a whitewashed manor house, Pedro reveals a new vintage corresponding to the sun-drenched estates. He explains that at many of the small estates, grapes are still harvested by hand and crushed with bare feet in vats (a process tourists can take part in during the autumn harvest). A loose collection of wine producers known as the Douro Boys have dedicated themselves to maintaining the region’s traditions while continuing to improve the quality of the wines.
We sniff, swirl and sip, savoring the spring sunshine on our faces along with the cured meats, cheeses and traditional Portuguese pastries produced from Pedro’s abundant picnic basket. Eventually the boat turns at Pinhão, a pretty little town that hugs a bend in the river, and starts the journey homeward. We settle back with a final, delicate Port, its golden hue a perfect reflection of the setting sun on the river.
Douro Valley Info to Go
The Douro Valley is a 90-minute drive from Francisco Sá Carneiro Internatianal Airport (OPO) in Porto. Regular trains depart Porto’s São Bento train station and take approximately two and a half hours to reach the Douro Valley. One of the most popular ways for tourists to travel between Porto and the valley is by Douro River boat cruises, which range from half a day (non-stop) to multiday journeys with stays in the valley’s villages.
Where to Stay in the Douro Valley
QUINTA DO PÉGO This wine estate perched high on the banks of the Douro River offers 10 tastefully furnished bedrooms and stunning views. Estrada Nacional 222, Valença do Douro $$$
SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY Six Senses’ first European hotel, this superbly renovated 19th-century manor house features restaurants and a luxury spa. Quinta Vale de Abraão, Samodães, Lamego $$$$$
VINTAGE HOUSE HOTEL Part of a former 18th-century wine estate, this hotel, set on a bend in the river, is perfect for sunsets on the terrace. Rua António Manuel Saraiva, Pinhão $$$$
Restaurants in the Douro Valley
RESTAURANTE D.O.C. Tradition meets modernity at this sleek and super-stylish restaurant with a terrace and an extensive wine list. Estrada Nacional 222, Folgosa $$$$$
RESTAURANTE QUINTA DA PACHECA One of the oldest Douro wine brands, Quinta da Pacheca pairs its popular vintages with elegant Portuguese dishes at its on-site restaurant. Rua do Relógio do Sol 261, Lamego $$$
VALE DE ABRAÃO RESTAURANT Monthly winemaker dinners spotlight local wines paired with dishes that emphasize organic ingredients from the hotel’s garden. Quinta Vale de Abraão, Six Senses Douro Valley, Lamego $$$$
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