ARUBA | Carley Thornell
Aruba is the smallest of the ABC Islands, but its visitor numbers outpace the others by far. It’s easy to see why: Getting there (and getting around when there) proves easy, and the island offers plenty of hotels, experiences and dining for families and lovebirds alike.

Long considered the “adventure island” of the trio — with De Palm Island water park, kite surfing and skydiving aplenty — Aruba’s tourism board has in recent years attempted to redirect daredevils away from the ATV squadrons that zip across its 20 miles, turning heads with flying speed and sand.

You’ll find plenty of other ways to catch a thrill … and more sustainable ways to do it. Open-air, customizable “safari” Jeep tours (with seatbelts) offer up rugged fun without off-roading that tears up natural habitats for endemic species like the shoco owl. Rather than nest in trees, these tiny birds hop and pop from their underground lairs, and they’re easy to spot at Arikok National Park. Other surprises lurk beneath the surface — quite literally — across this protected oceanside stretch, including Quadirikiri and Fontein caves. The latter’s limestone walls are covered floor to “ceiling” with ancient drawings from the island’s native Arawak Indian tribe, just one of the many peoples who’ve called Aruba home for millennia.

Today, vestiges of the island’s multicultural history unfold at each corner with Aruba Walking Tours. Capital city Oranjestad brims with pastel facades and curved Dutch gables that fuse Caribbean flair with colonial sensibilities. The Dutch occupied the island for nearly two centuries, but the official language — Papiamento — comprises a blend of those who were born here, those who sailed through (like the Spanish and Portuguese) and those who stayed.

This melting pot’s playful tongue is as delightful as its diverse cuisine. A visit to Papiamento Restaurant feels like stepping back in time in the traditional 1886 cunucu home built in the thatched-roof, open-air style common throughout the Aruban countryside before air-conditioning and solar panels. Dishes such as keshi yena — tangy chicken with raisins, peppers and olives bundled in gooey cheese — are as rich in history as they are in flavor.

Those who’ve saved room for a nightcap — or for a souvenir in their suitcase — will want to check out the new Pepe Margo Distillery and bar, the island’s first craft facility for gin and rum production. Others who prefer sophisticated sips over swashbuckling spirits should hit up late-night Apotek Speakeasy, a dark and sexy foil to all things light and bright on the beach.

BONAIRE | Richard Newton
There are reasons to avoid Bonaire. It lacks the broad, sandy beaches of neighboring Aruba and Curaçao. It has little nightlife. It has no public transport. It’s often very windy. It’s mosquito-infested. And yet, for a certain type of family, it’s the ABC island of choice.

© Liz Grogan | Dreamstime.com

Not all families like to laze on a beach. For those who prefer to be active, Bonaire offers an abundance of options, starting under water. The ocean around Bonaire is a protected marine park, with 88 public dive sites in clear, warm water. Some of the best dive sites, centered on reefs and wrecks, are easily accessible from shore, making Bonaire the “shore diving capital of the world.”

If you’re a novice, no problem. Operators here provide courses certified by PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. Snorkel lessons are available for children aged 5–10, with diving courses for those over 10. Perennial winds provide the perfect conditions for sailing, windsurfing, eFoiling and kitesurfing. Again, this is the ideal place to learn, with local instructors offering courses for all ages and abilities.

Central to Bonaire’s thriving tourism industry, water sports transformed an economy that previously relied on oil storage and salt production. The pink-tinged salt ponds in the south of the island continue to produce salt for export and make an unlikely sanctuary for flamingoes and other migratory birds. Get the best view of the flocks from Pink Beach.

The north is arid, scattered with tall cacti and largely protected within Washington Slagbaai National Park. Among the interesting animal species to spot are iguanas, blue-tailed lizards nicknamed “blue-blues” and the characterful yellow-shouldered parrot locally known as lora in Papiamento.

A large population of donkeys has inhabited Bonaire ever since they were imported by the Spanish in the 17th century. They roam freely but are best seen up close at the Donkey Sanctuary, which houses 800 sick, injured or orphaned donkeys. You can even adopt a donkey, giving you another reason among many to return to Bonaire.

CURAÇAO | Kimberly Inlander 
Two worlds exist on either side of the island of Curaçao: the colorful Dutch-style buildings and enticing attractions of the more popular and more traveled eastern side, and the wild, lush vegetation and rugged coastline of the west. During our time on the island — celebrating a milestone birthday and a first couple’s trip after the birth of our daughter — we luckily had the opportunity to explore both, giving us a full-circle taste of life on the island.

© Rrushton6 | Dreamstime.com

The blue water really does radiate off the pastel hues of the buildings in the most brilliant way, just as the photographs indicate, in Curaçao’s capital of Willemstad. Here the iconic floating Queen Emma Bridge connects the Punda and Otrobanda neighborhoods across Sint Anna Bay. This is where our journey began and where much of life is centralized on the island. We took a guided tour from Cur Tuk Tuk to familiarize ourselves with the island and learn more about the vibrant streets, incredible murals and history.

The rest of the day was spent wandering the streets to absorb the island life, digging our toes into the white sands of our resort’s beach and digging into a thrilling, dishy novel — the exact picture of any idyllic island getaway.

Day Two was for exploration of Westpunt (Bándabou in Papiamento), the rural, western part of the island where some of the most beautiful beaches sit nestled in cozy coves tucked into the soaring cliffs. Here visitors also find Shete Boka National Park and various plantation houses. We lunched at Landhuis Klein Santa Martha, a 17th-century landmark and former plantation house that today serves as a restaurant and boutique hotel. But first we took to the water, enjoying a jet ski beach-hopping tour with Tourrific.

For a more leisurely dinner, we found ourselves at Pasawá Box Eatery, a street food market concept where music, TVs, a number of dining options, various seating arrangements and laid-back vibes awaited. An afternoon return flight allowed us to make the most of our last day in Curaçao. We spent the morning at the Curaçao Spirits Distillery at Landhuis Chobolobo to learn more about the traditional Genuine Blue Curaçao — nothing like the liqueur we know here in the United States. Brunch at Number Ten, an eclectic café on the grounds of Landhuis Bloemhof, afforded us the opportunity to explore the grounds, including the Cathedral of Thorns.

The electric island of Curaçao and its warm people ensured the perfect celebratory getaway with my dushi (Papiamento for “sweetheart”).

LODGING

BUCUTI & TARA BEACH RESORT
Avoid the crowds in the hulking High-Rise District and opt for sand and serenity at eco-friendly Bucuti & Tara. Nestled in the Low Rise District on one of the world’s best stretches of shore, the 4-star, 101 adults-only rooms all face the ocean. Don’t miss out on a sunset dinner (and superior wine list) at on-site Elements.
L.G. Smith Blvd. 55B, Eagle
Beach, Aruba
$$$$$

CAPTAIN DON’S HABITAT

This diving resort, established by a larger-than-life American, Capt. Don Stewart (1925–2014), offers comfortable rooms and dive activities for novices to experts.
Kaya Gob. N. Debrot 103,
Kralendijk, Bonaire
$$$

LIONSDIVE BEACH RESORT CURAÇAO
Situated on the beach, the resort’s two- and three-story Dutch Caribbean buildings offer various amenities for any group configuration, as well as several eateries and other features, including a pool. My favorite spot was a wooden chair at the ocean’s edge at Chill (a beach bar immediately recognizable from its various signs and license plates) at sunset.
Bapor Kibrà, Willemstad,
Curaçao
$$$$

DINING
HOLY SMOKE BONAIRE
Fresh seafood is abundant on Bonaire, but sometimes all you want is a good, meaty barbecue. This roadside stall keeps it simple: pulled pork sandwiches, smoked ribs or turkey legs.
Kaya IR., Randolph Statius
van Eps 17, Kralendijk,
Bonaire
$$

MOSA/CAÑA BAR & KITCHEN
A meal at Mosa/Caña Bar & Kitchen feels like dining like a local; this is a place attracting all for its Latin/Caribbean fusion menu
and its home-like setup and décor. We shared several small plates, from ceviche and tacos to sous-vide rum ribs.
41 Penstraat, Willemstad,
Curaçao
$$$$

PAPIAMENTO RESTAURANT

Part museum, part restaurant, Papiamento serves a menu as diverse as the island’s heritage, with fresh Caribbean catch, Dutch cheeses and flavors that captivated seafarers for centuries. Ask for a table outside under the illuminated canopy of trees, and order the rendang beef stew with star anise, ginger and peanut sauce.
Washington 61, Noord,
Aruba
$$$–$$$$

INFO TO GO

All three islands sit outside of the hurricane belt, with no rainy season and temperatures hovering around 82 degrees year-round — meaning there’s no “bad” time to go. Getting to Aruba is easy, with more than 100 direct flights weekly from 14 North American cities to Queen Beatrix International Airport in Oranjestad. As of mid-2024, Aruba charges a $20 sustainability fee for visitors arriving by air; the application and fee must be completed in advance through the Online ED Card system at edcardaruba.aw.

International flights to Bonaire arrive at Flamingo International Airport, close to the capital, Kralendijk. U.S. citizens must have a valid passport. Although no visa is required, there is a Visitor Entry Tax of $75 per person ($10 for children under 12), payable online at tourismtax.bonairegov.com or on arrival.

International flights to Curaçao arrive at Curaçao International Airport. All international visitors must complete a Digital Immigration Card within seven days prior to departure. Find the form at dicardcuracao.com