The big, busy, bustling, modern metropolis that is Seoul has been the center of Korea’s politics, economy and culture for six centuries. The city seems to be always on the move and, though at first glance it might seem that Seoul is all business, there are plenty of sights and activities to entertain spouses, partners, friends and families.

Seoul has museums galore, one of the most obscure being the Tteok and Kitchen Utensil Museum (Waryongdong 164-2, Jongno-gu). Here you can view displays of old utensils and other rice-cake-related items on the second floor and then move downstairs for a relaxing tea and rice-cake break at café Jilsiru.

More mainstream museums include the modern, stylish and new National Museum of Korea (135 Seobinggo ro, Yongsan-gu, tel 82 2 2077 9000), which houses some of the country’s most cherished and valuable treasures. Dedicated to preserving and passing along Korea’s heritage, three floors of galleries are arranged around a central hall, highlighted by a 10-story pagoda. The adjoining Children’s Museum provides an opportunity for the younger set to learn about Korean culture through interactive exhibits. Fun stuff includes trying on armor and playing ancient musical instruments.

The National Folk Museum of Korea (tel 82 2 3704 3114), located on the Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds, offers an insight into the everyday lives of ancient Koreans, both common and royal, particularly during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). There are hands-on activities for kids, and the surrounding gardens display interesting statues in wood and stone.

Another place to learn about lives of long-ago Koreans is Namsangol Hanok Village (tel 82 2 2266 6923). Located in Namsan Park, the village comprises three parts: a traditional Korean garden, Time Capsule Plaza, and the village itself. The fully restored traditional Korean houses, called hanok, are from the Joseon Dynasty and have been moved from their original locations around Seoul to the village site. The park itself has walking and jogging trails surrounded by greenery, making it a great place to get a little exercise and unwind.

Shopping opportunities in Seoul range from high-end department stores like Shinsegae, where the salespeople frequently outnumber the customers, to street markets selling everything from knockoff Prada bags to microwaves. Trendy and crowded, the Ssamzie Market (Gwanhun-dong 38, Jongno-gu) in the Insa-dong neighborhood is a pedestrian-only area covering a number of blocks in central Seoul. Besides the three-story Ssamziegil shopping complex, there are stores, restaurants, outdoor stalls and all sorts of activity. You can buy almost anything here from fine art to the tackiest souvenir.

For an entirely different kind of market experience visit the Noryangjin Fish Market (13-8 Noryangjin-dong, tel 82 2 814 2211). Hundreds of stalls occupy the huge warehouse-like space displaying fish of every description. Vendors plop live wiggling fish into plastic bags, sell dried seafood or filet your choice on the spot. The market’s open all day, but if you come around lunchtime you can feast on the freshest fish dishes at one of the market’s small restaurants.

Seoul has its fair share of palaces with the smallest being Deoksugung. The complex, located across from Seoul’s city hall, claims to have some of the best examples of royal architecture of the Joseon Dynasty. In addition to the traditional-style buildings, with tile roofs and colorfully painted designs, this is where you can see the changing of the traditionally dressed guards, which happens three times a day except Mondays.

The Gyeongbokgung Palace complex (1 Sejong-ro, tel 82 2 734 2458) is vast, but only a handful are left of the hun dreds of buildings that originally occupied the site. Most of these have been rebuilt at one time or another and are scattered amid a tranquil garden landscape. This is one of the loveliest places in Seoul to spend time just wandering through a peaceful and pleasant garden, punctuated by traditional buildings and walls.

For a night of unique high-energy entertainment, head for the Nanta Theater (86-I Cheongdam-dong, Gangnum-gu, tel 82 2 739 8288). You don’t need to understand Korean to enjoy the show; it is entirely nonverbal. The whole performance takes place in a kitchen with the various cooking implements being used as percussion instruments.

LODGING

JW MARRIOTT

Glamorous and spacious, the JW Marriott is Seoul’s newest super-deluxe hotel. Plenty of marble and warm woods are used throughout, and the guestrooms are among the largest Seoul has to offer. The state-of-the-art spa and fitness center is one of the most comprehensive in Asia and includes the latest exercise equipment, classes in classic Asian disciplines, an impressively large swimming pool and a myriad of treatments. The buffet breakfast is one of the best anywhere, and if you get the shopping itch visit the fabulous Shinsegae Department Store, which is connected by a hallway to the main lobby.$$$$
JW MARRIOTT
19-3 Banpo-dong Seocho-gu
tel 82 2 6282 6262
http://www.marriott.com

MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON

Located at the foot of Mount Namsan, this hotel has so many amenities that you won’t need to leave it. You can choose from Chinese, Italian, French or Japanese cuisine at one of the hotel’s seven restaurants, shop at the onsite shopping area, swim laps in a 82-foot pool, or practice your golf swing on the hotel’s driving range. At Orangerie’s play area kids can play on slides and carts, watch cartoons, play video games and order from a kid’s menu. Executive rooms include private check-in and access to the Executive Lounge, which offers continental breakfast, nightly cocktails and Internet access.$$$$
MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON
395 5-ga, Namdaemun-ro, Chung-gu
tel 82 2 317 3114
http://www.hilton.com

PARK HYATT
Checking into this luxurious modern hotel near the convention center sets the tone for the rest of your stay. Forget a first-floor lobby with a view of the parking circle; this 24-story hotel’s lobby is on the top floor, meaning that guests are treated immediately to panoramic views of the city. The hotel’s recreational facilities are also located on the upper levels, so the active set can work out on the latest TechnoGym equipment in the fitness studio with dramatic views from its floor-to-ceiling windows. There’s also a full-service spa, and the rooms are spacious, modern and graciously appointed.$$$$
PARK HYATT
995-14 Daechi 3-dong Gangnam-gu
tel 82 2 2016 1234
http://seoul.park.hyatt.com

DINING

THE SAMWON GARDEN RESTAURANT

Light and airy, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto a garden complete with a waterfall, this restaurant is a favorite with locals and visitors alike. Traditional Korean dishes such as beef short rib stew and buckwheat noodles with cold beef are accompanied by a variety of kimchis, as are prime beef dishes, such as sirloin and chuck. The barbecue beef with scallions and vegetables is a specialty of the house, and the traditional sweet bean soup dessert is the perfect end to the meal. If the weather is nice, eating outside under the trees surrounded by flowers is a real treat.$-$$$$
THE SAMWON GARDEN RESTAURANT
623-5 Shinsa-dong
tel 82 2 548 3030
http://www.samwongarden.com

SANCHON KOREAN TEMPLE CUISINE
Founded by a former Buddhist monk, this is the place to go in Seoul for a great vegetarian meal in the tradition of Korean temple cuisine. Diners sit on cushions around low tables, the food is served by real monks dressed in traditional temple garb, the ambience is restful, and the food is organic, healthy and delicious. Made from roots, herbs, plants and vegetables that can be found in the country’s forest and mountain areas, specialties include vegetable pancakes, stews and steamed vegetables. A set-price dinner includes 16 dishes and can be accompanied by a home-brewed fruit wine.$$-$$$
SANCHON KOREAN TEMPLE CUISINE
Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu
tel 82 2 735 0312
http://www.sanchon.com

TOSOKCHON
More than just a place to eat, dining at Tosokchon is an experience. No-nonsense uniformed waitresses carrying giant trays rush around the multi-roomed teahouse-like restaurant at breakneck speed delivering piping hot bowls of samgyetang — a traditional Korean dish of a young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng, garlic and jujube dates in a herb-flavored broth served with kimchi — to hungry customers. Since President Roh Moo-hyun proclaimed this to be one of his favorite restaurants, the place has become more popular than ever, but the restaurant is big and the service fast, so the wait is never too long.$$
TOSOKCHON
Near exit 2 of Gyeongbokgung station
tel 82 2 737 7444

INFO TO GO

Incheon International Airport (ICN) is about 32 miles west of downtown Seoul and is served by flights to and from all parts of the world. Limousine buses run regularly between the airport and various downtown destinations, including the larger hotels, the Express Bus Terminal and the City Air Terminal, and cost about $15 each way. Less expensive, though not as fast or as direct, are the city buses.

For getting around the city there are city buses and a subway. Bus signs are written only in Korean, so check with the hotel staff who should be able to help you find the right bus to your destination. The Seoul subway system is excellent, and station names, ticket windows and transfer signs are in English. Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced, but traffic jams are a given in Seoul, so the subway will definitely be faster and cheaper.

For more information, contact the Korea Tourism Organization at http://tour2korea.com