The Brisbane of old was a seedy river-port, where heavy drinkers huddled in dark and dingy pubs. Despite the balmy climate, outdoor dining and promenading were virtually unknown. People may have assumed that “al fresco” was the name of an Italian painter.

That’s all changed. Confident and sophisticated, with streetscapes of palm trees and canvas sails, the modern Brisbane could even be described as “cool.” The sea change in Brisbane’s sense of identity began nearly 20 years ago with the World Expo of 1988. Visitors from around the globe flocked to Brisbane, bringing with them new cultural attitudes and values that opened the eyes of Brisbane’s residents to a whole new world.

The site for the World Expo, on the southern bank of the lazy Brisbane River, now has been transformed into one of the city’s top draws: the public space known as Southbank Parklands. With more than 20 restaurants and cafes, a sandy beach, the South Bank Wildlife Sanctuary (with a great collection of butterflies, birds, frogs, sugar gliders and possums) and 40 acres of gardens, Southbank is a joy to visit, and as a big bonus, is open 24 hours a day.

Brisbane is currently growing faster then any other Australian city. An estimated 600 to 800 people a day relocate to the city. In particular, the Port of Brisbane has become the center of a major transport hub, the Australia TradeCoast precinct, which covers more than 30 square miles including Brisbane Airport (BNE) and (uniquely for Australian cities) provides a seamless interface between sea, road and rail transport. More money has been invested in transport infrastructure at the Port of Brisbane over the last five years than at all other Australian capital city ports combined.

Last September, Brisbane Airport received a greater number of arrivals than Melbourne, catapulting it into position as Australia’s second most important airport (after Sydney). The Brisbane Airport Corp. has committed to $2.2 billion in infrastructure projects over the next seven years — including a new runway — to support projected growth. And unlike Sydney (SYD), Brisbane is a curfew-free airport, allowing 24/7 movement of people and freight. A new bus network, the Inner North Busway known as INB, is under construction. Once completed, it will feature dedicated through-lanes and a number of central-city underground stations. Bus routes will all connect with trains at the new Central Station and, eventually, further expansion is planned.

Southbank is blooming, too. The stretch of riverfront land west of Southbank Parklands forms the center of the new Brisbane Cultural Precinct, home to the Queensland Performing Arts Center and the State Art Gallery. Adjacent to the Art Gallery, the new State Library, opened in November, is four levels of cool chrome and sparkling glass. Further along the Brisbane River, Australia’s biggest contemporary art gallery — the Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA) — opened last month.

As part of the South East Queensland Infrastructure Plan, the state government of Queensland has made a 20-year commitment to spend more than $50 billion on infrastructure by 2026. Some financial experts, however, have criticized the current level of spending as reckless. The Brisbane City Council ran up a record deficit in the first six months of 2006. This comes at a time when exports through the Port of Brisbane are set to decline dramatically, due to an unprecedented “once-in-a-millennium” drought throughout Australia, with Queensland being the worst affected of all Australian states.

In recent years, the individual precincts that make up Brisbane have become known as “villages.” For a while, James Street in Fortitude Valley was Brisbane’s chicest and most cutting-edge village, but that title now goes to the new Portside Wharf development in Ascot-Hamilton. Other popular villages include the funky West End, and the fast-growing former industrial area of Bulimba.

But maybe what best defines Brisbane is its au ra of dynamism and creative flair, within a totally laidback, climate-blessed environment. The days are sunny and mild throughout the winter; and the summers are never too hot (except for a few very humid weeks in February and early March). Given this fortuitous combination, it is little wonder that business in Brisbane is booming.

LODGING

BRISBANE MARRIOTT HOTEL

The Brisbane Marriott Hotel is a top-of-the-range establishment.The attention to detail in the public spaces, from the mahogany paneling to the range of fine antiques and paintings, is extraordinary. Guestrooms are lavishly decorated; more than half of them offer great views over the Brisbane River.The breakfast buffet is a well-known feature of the Marriott. Best of all, it’s just a one-minute walk from The Boardwalk, which affords a supremely scenic and relaxing stroll along the river to the restaurant complex at Eagle Wharf. $$$$
BRISBANE MARRIOTT
515 Queen St.
tel 61 7 3303 8000, fax 61 7 3303 8088
http://www.marriott.com

SAVILLE SOUTHBANK

If the brand-new Saville Southbank were any more minimalist, it wouldn’t be here at all. This property is all cool chrome and sparkling glass, rising above the Southbank precinct and within a few minutes’ walk of the Brisbane Cultural Precinct. Suites and apartments are furnished in yet more chrome and glass, with Tasmanian oak furnishings – a feature that is carried through to the in-house Stone Restaurant and Bar, which features contemporary Australian cuisine with fresh local ingredients prepared using Asian and Mediterranean techniques. All apartments have fully equipped kitchens or kitchenettes, and most also have washing machines and dryers. A gymnasium and lap pool are on site. $$$-$$$$
SAVILLE SOUTHBANK
161 Grey St., South Bank
tel 61 7 3305 2500, fax 61 7 3305 2599
http://www.savillehotelgroup.com.au

SOFITEL BRISBANE

Following an extensive refurbishment, the old Brisbane Sheraton has re-emerged as Sofitel Brisbane. Guestrooms feature new furnishings in subtle pastel shades to provide a restful ambience. All guestrooms have broadband Internet access. On-site amenities and facilities include a spa, a health and fitness center and a 40-foot heated swimming pool. Guests staying in the executive rooms on the top level have access to the Club Sofitel Lounge and a fully equipped business center. The Sofitel offers 13 conference venues, including boardrooms that can accommodate groups of 20 to 1,100. The hotel’s Brisbane City Sidewalk Restaurant features extraordinary buffets highlighting local seafood – the house specialty – complemented by a unique wine buffet. $$$$
SOFITEL BRISBANE
249 Turbot St.
tel 61 7 3835 3535, fax 61 7 3835 4960
http://www.sofitel.com

DINING

IL CENTRO

Il Centro, at Brisbane’s Eagle Wharf, is a local institution. The award-winning restaurant is known for its super-attentive service and knowledgeable waitstaff. New Executive Chef Romain Bapst has put his personal touch on the extensive seasonal menu. For starters, choose the sand crab and avocado salad or the deep sea scallop and truffle pesto ravioli. Entrees include sauteed Torres Strait lobster with potato gnocchi and roasted chestnuts, and Flinders Island milk-fed lamb. For dessert, try the creme brulee with pineapple and basil. One thing is for sure – you’ll be back for more. $$$
IL CENTRO
Eagle Street Pier
tel 61 7 3221 6090, fax 61 7 3221 6130
http://www.il-centro.com.au

CRU BAR AND CELLAR

Housed in the trendy James Street Markets in Fortitude Valley village, The Cru defines casual, relaxed dining – Brisbane style. Tables overlook the street, with bay windows creating a seamless outdoor/indoor interface. For starters, try the homemade lamb and pine-nut sausages. The limited choice of entrees include such flavor sensations as Mooloolaba tiger prawn linguini with Asian condiments, or aged grain-fed Burnett Valley sirloin. There is also an excellent range of cheeses and the in-house cellars are famous throughout Queensland. $$$
CRU BAR AND CELLAR
22 James St.
tel 61 7 3252 2400
http://www.crubar.com

MANX RESTAURANT

Located in the brand-new Portside Wharf complex, Manx Restaurant was attracting rave reviews within weeks of its opening. Owner and head Chef Paul McGivern presides over a waterfront dining room that spills over onto the waterfront with outdoor tables. Servings are ample, and seafood features strongly on the European-influenced menu. Best of all, diners can travel in relaxed comfort to Portside Wharf by the City Cat ferry, alighting at Bretts Wharf – just 220 yards from Portside.
PORTSIDE RESATURANT
Building 7, Shop 11, Portside Wharf
11 Hercules St., Hamilton
tel 61 7 3216 4999, fax 61 7 3216 6130

DIVERSIONS

Late at night, Brisbane rocks like jelly in an earthquake. In James Street Village (Fortitude Valley), the Alhambra Lounge (tel 61 7 3216 0226, http://www.alhambralounge.com.au) recently won Brisbane’s prestigious Best New Nightclub 2006 award. Featuring a variety of spaces, from private booths to a VIP lounge, Alhambra Lounge offers entertainment that is as diverse – funk, soul, lounge, live percussion and Latin and Mediterranean dancers – as its Moorish-influenced decor. Also in Fortitude Valley, Sunbar (tel 61 7 3257 4999, http://www.thesunbar.com) attracts some of the city’s top DJs. The village of West End is currently one of the best hangouts late at night. Possibly the trendiest new place in town is Zomba Bar (tel 61 7 3844 0842), open until 2 a.m. every day except Monday.

Given Brisbane’s usually excellent climate (“brilliant one day, perfect the next” is a popular local saying), outdoor activities feature high on the leisure-time agenda. The Desert is an extraordinary sandscape of surreal dunes on Brisbane’s Moreton Island, less than an hour from the city via fast launch. Sand tobogganning is a total buzz.You eat a bit of grit – but it’s all worth it. At Tangalooma Harbour, also on Moreton Island, the dolphins are super-friendly, and will eat right out of your hand. At Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort, you can’t swim with the dolphins, but going into the water and hand feeding them is the next best thing. Ninety-seven percent of Moreton Island is a national park — one reason why it’s often called “Brisbane’s backyard.” In a way, Brisbane seems to have the same kinds of qualities as the dolphins of Moreton Island – relaxed and laid-back. While other cities may age as they mature, Brisbane seems to become ever more youthful and alive.

Checking In With Campbell Newman, Lord Mayor of Brisbane

Global Traveler: Given the current emphasis on defining Brisbane by precinct, is there a danger that the cohesive image of the city might fragment into a network of interconnected villages?
Campbell Newman: There is a smorgasbord of lifestyle choices in Brisbane. Residents can, for example, enjoy the inner-city charm of historic Paddington, or base themselves at Manly Harbour Village to enjoy Moreton Bay and its myriad islands — or even enjoy country living in the mountains at Brookfield. But one of the unique features of our city is its strong connection between the city center and its surrounding urban centers. Detailed and innovative urban planning will ensure Brisbane continues to grow in such a way that we protect and enhance this connectivity, as well as the things we value about our city and its neighborhoods. It will also facilitate greater sustainable urban design and ensure that we build the sort of infrastructure that will support our phenomenal growth.

GT: How will the Australia TradeCoast hub be a magnet for business? Will the main benefits be due to lower costs, better turnaround times or other factors?
CN: Australia TradeCoast is already the fastest growing industry and economic precinct in Southeast Asia. According to forecasts by the National Institute of Economic and Industry Research,Australia TradeCoast will generate 14 percent of the jobs growth in the Brisbane Local Government Area in the next 20 years, and 24 percent of the city’s export growth. The ATC has also developed into a center for high tech and related industries, attracting leading companies involved in aviation, transport and logistics.

GT: In what way will the upgrading of the Port of Brisbane benefit the region, at a time when employment growth in manufacturing is lower than for any other business sector?
CN: It’s true that current employment growth in manufacturing is not so good. The greatest growth industries, in terms of the additional number of persons employed between 2001 and 2026, are forecasted to be retail, property and business services, health and community services and construction, followed closely by transport and storage.

However, Brisbane is in a unique situation compared to other cities throughout Australia. Our manufacturing industry is predicted to make the greatest contribution to Brisbane’s export growth in the years leading to 2026. The number of people employed in manufacturing-related jobs will also grow during this time.

GT: Can Brisbane’s cost-competitiveness be sustained in the current global environment of rising fuel costs?
CN: Brisbane will deal with any potential global fuel issue by being informed by the latest scientific innovation, more sustainable resource use and better work practices, as well as by technological advances in alternative, cleaner and more efficient fuel sources. At the World Technopolis Association’s “Smart Cities Ensure Smart Futures” conference right here in Brisbane, mayors from across the globe established the Brisbane Accord, a historic agreement to share information, experience and expertise on future challenges and aspirations facing cities around the world.The Brisbane Accord is designed to further advance the global networking of cities with a science and technology focus, as well as the growth of research-oriented universities around the world.

Just the Facts

Time Zone: GMT +10
Phone code: Country code 61; area code for Queensland (0)7
Currency: Australian dollar (AUD)
Official Language: English
Key Industries: Beef, sugar, tourism, aquaculture, advanced manufacturing technologies, Internet technology

INFO TO GO

Brisbane Airport (BNE) is one of Australia’s most user-friendly air terminals. The International Airport in particular is an airy, inviting structure with great decor, plenty of good shops and a relaxed feel. The airport is well connected to the city center. The Coachtrans company (http://www.coachtrans.com.au) runs buses to Roma Street Transit Center, where there is a coach/rail interchange. The fare is $7 one way. For $9, ride the Airlink rail service. Airlink has rail stations at both the domestic and international terminals, and the fare to the city is $9 (or $4 between the international and domestic terminals).