Poor Brisbane. Visitors to Australia have long treated its third-largest city as merely a jumping-off point for the Great Barrier Reef (four hours north) or the world-famous Gold Coast waves at Surfers Paradise (one hour south). Even Aussies have historically snubbed “Brissie” for a lack of flash and sophistication, nicknaming it the “big country town.”

Of course, Brisbane’s open, unpretentious vibe is precisely its charm, particularly for travelers with young kids. Only the sleek Eagle Street Pier restaurants are likely to look askance at the bib-and-sippy set, while older kids always enjoy a friendly welcome. And the near-perfect climate creates ubiquitous opportunities for children to stretch their legs and blow off energy: Parks and gardens are plentiful, and most eateries include outdoor tables where youthful energy seems entirely appropriate.

But parents will discover much more than playgrounds in Brisbane. The city evolved since its ho-hum postwar era and now offers exciting arts venues, a bevy of accomplished chefs and nightlife that manages to feel both gritty and glamorous. All but the late-night scene appeal to kids as well as adults, making this a first-rate destination for families who like to combine outdoor play and creative and edible art with doing business.

When the meetings end, head to one of Brisbane’s utterly distinctive attractions, the Lone Pine Sanctuary ($33 adult, $22 child), where all ages share the thrill of hugging a koala. Australia’s first and largest such koala refuge, Lone Pine lets visitors cuddle with these iconic creatures, which are as easygoing as they are emblematic of the land Down Under. You simply hold out your arms to become a “tree” that the furry gripper can cling to.

The size of a plump housecat but with big, rounded ears that make them look like miniature bears, koalas feel surprisingly human and remind many parents of what it was like to hold their newborn. And for kids, coming face to face with these cartoonish critters creates a lifelong memory. There’s no additional fee for snuggles, but photos (even ones taken with your own camera) cost $16. It’s worth every penny to capture a child’s joy at touching a koala with his or her own hands.

To get here, catch a bus at Queen Street Station for the 45-minute trip, or book a river cruise on the Mirimar II, which offers daily trips to Lone Pine ($68 adult, $38 child; includes zoo admission). Cruises depart from Cultural Centre Pontoon at 10 a.m., and a narrator fills the 75-minute trip with interesting details about riverside mangrove trees and mansions.

Get up close and personal with those mangroves at Brisbane Botanic Gardens, which greens the southeast tip of Brisbane’s Central Business District. A wooden boardwalk once offered passage through the trees (which grow right out of the water), and although this walkway was demolished as a result of damage from the 2011 floods and 2013 storms, visitors can still stand on the edge of this ghostly forest, wander among a luminous bamboo grove and enjoy views across the river to Kangaroo Point.

Older kids (10 and up) can climb Story Bridge. A cherished Brisbane landmark, this steel span dominates views from the CBD and soars to fantastic heights above the Brisbane River. Standing 262 feet above the water, climbers overlook not only Brisbane but also Mount Coot-tha to the west and Moreton Bay to the east. Although cameras aren’t permitted (picture-taking distracts participants and compromises safety), guides can snap pictures of family climbs and provide mementos worthy of the holiday photo card.

More views enthrall riders on the Wheel of Brisbane ($15 adult, $10 children 4–12). Like London’s iconic Eye, Brisbane’s giant observation wheel is itself a spectacle, especially at night when its spokes glow red and gold. Climb aboard and you float 197 feet into the air (half the Eye’s height) for enchanting views across Brisbane. Daylight rides reveal every street, house and hillside from an on-high perspective that makes Brisbane look like a toy train set. But nighttime trips may be even more impressive since that’s when the city’s lights sparkle like diamonds.

Streets Beach © Brisbane Marketing

Located in the South Bank Parklands, opposite the river from the CBD, the Wheel is surrounded by plenty of other family-friendly attractions, most notably Streets Beach. Looking like a little patch of seaside paradise, complete with golden-sand beaches and palm trees, this manmade swimming lagoon even staffs yellow-shirted lifeguards trained to keep tykes safe. It’s perfect for toddlers, who are often tossed asunder by actual waves in real oceans. But older kids and teens also enjoy splashing in the shallow waters and sunbathing on the shore. And just when you feel you’ve been transported to Grand Bahama, you look up and glimpse the CBD’s skyscrapers towering above the water.

The new Nitrogenie ice cream shop in nearby Stanley Plaza makes the perfect post-swim stop. Instead of chilling sweetened cream with ice, or even a freezer (which seems quaintly antique after a glimpse of this shop’s wizardry), Nitrogenie uses liquid nitrogen to create its all-natural desserts. The slower it freezes, the more granular ice cream becomes — which explains why the texture of this version is spectacularly silky. And it all happens before customers’ eyes: Mist wafts out of mixing bowls that create classic flavors — Triple Choc Brownie and After Dinner Minty remain popular — as well as novel combinations like brown sugar and white miso.

If work obligations keep you from daytime sightseeing with the family, join them come evening when families and couples settle into chairs on the Parklands lawn to watch movies in the open air. The Ben and Jerry’s Openair Cinema stages various films in October and November, when peals of youthful laughter erupt to the likes of Despicable Me 2. Yes, cups of free ice cream cool the crowds, and live bands create a carnival atmosphere before the flicks even get rolling.

For loftier art events that are nevertheless approachable, head across town to New Farm, where a former power station has been “transformed” into a sensational venue for all manner of arts. Some of the Brisbane Powerhouse’s theater productions are staged just for kids (one recent show, Begin As You Wish to Continue, was actually written and performed by youth aged 9–26) while others are musical and comedic performances that appeal to adults. Exhibits on the industrial-era walls present visual arts and photography, and occasional outdoor markets — such as the Suitcase Rummage sales — attract artisans who sell their handmade, recycled and up-cycled products.

Maybe it’s the Brisbane Powerhouse’s bold eye candy or the engaging markets where families can haggle for unique treasures, but children always seem to be accounted for at this artistic crossroads. Live dance and music captivate young audience members, and families find that events here make for surprisingly inclusive entertainment.

After the show or shopping, kids can dash down the jacaranda-lined paths of New Farm Park, which surrounds the Powerhouse. A farmers’ market here on the second and fourth Saturday of every month attracts purveyors of local seafood and pork plus other Aussie delicacies that make this a foodie’s heaven and a great place to interest kids in the colorful variety of craft-grown produce on display. And a snack is always on offer: Roast chickens, festive cupcakes and fresh breads curb growing kids’ hunger and round out the park’s sensory delights.

Or pack a picnic and settle down by the river, Brisbane’s central artery. Like Parisians by the Seine, Brissies never tire of gazing at their water — and neither do kids.

Brisbane Info to Go

Bulldozers and hardhats surround the Brisbane Airport (BNE), where major upgrades are under way at the Domestic and International terminals (about 1.25 miles apart). Airtrain links both terminals ($5) and offers convenient service into the city ($16) with stops at Fortitude Valley, Roma Street Station and other key points. Children aged 14 and under travel free with a paying adult. Taxis depart from Level 2 on the northern end of the International Terminal, and fares to central Brisbane cost about $40.

Where to Stay in Brisbane

Hilton Brisbane Hotel A 2012 renovation jazzed up this mainstay with massive video screens in the lobby and sparkling new bathrooms. Palm trees and loungers make the outdoor pool feel like the Gold Coast. 190 Elizabeth St. $$$

MacArthur Chambers This handsome sandstone building dates from the 1930s but contains utterly contemporary one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments with access to the ninth-floor pool and barbecue area. 201 Edward St. $$

Meriton Serviced Apartments This brand-new luxury high-rise towers 860 feet above Brisbane River to offer stunning views from its smartly decorated studio and one-bedroom apartments, plus a gym, spa and indoor heated pool. 43 Herschel St. $$

Restaurants in Brisbane

The Brasserie on the River Seafood buffets are a Brisbane institution, and the spread at The Brasserie pairs expansive riverside views with heaps of simply prepared shrimp, oysters, fish and crab, plus plates of extravagant desserts. Stamford Plaza Hotel, Corner of Edward and Margaret streets $$$

Riverbar & Kitchen Chef Matt Moran’s newest venture, this nautical-themed eatery is casual (order at the bar, then seat yourself) yet gourmet, featuring duck rillettes, pork and fennel pizza and chili salt squid. 71 Eagle St. $$

Swampdog Fish and Chips Richard Webb elevates the classic with sustainable seafood (such as whiting) served breaded, crumbed or grilled. Or try the house-smoked sardines on sourdough. 186 Vulture St. $$

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