A few weeks ago we decided to explore some of the wineries in our area. Southern Oregon is not as well known as its northern and more well-established Oregon AVA neighbors in the Willamette Valley, but there are now dozens of wineries down this way; and while some are still developing, others produce some pretty lovely wines.
We focused our attention on this particular day on the Applegate Valley, a bucolic 50-mile stretch encompassing the crystal-clear Applegate River boasting forested hillsides; a fertile, temperate valley floor; and farms producing lavender, grass-fed cattle, organic produce and, of course, wine grapes. Sunset magazine referred to it as “wine country the way it should be,” and, indeed, visitors often find friendly, enthusiastic vintners hosting their own uncrowded tasting rooms, eager to share their insights and wine. The pace is unhurried, the vibe laid-back, and everyone seems to be having a good time.
With just half a day to devote to wine tasting, we chose to visit just two wineries here, each standing out from its neighbors in compelling ways. Our first stop, Wooldridge Creek Winery, allowed us to taste not only wine but also cheese from Oregon’s first combined winery and creamery. CrushPad Creamery, as its name implies, sits adjacent to the winery’s crushpad and produces cow and goat milk cheeses. We tried a sampling of wines and cheeses; and while I can’t say any of the wines really jumped out at me, we really enjoyed the cheeses and brought home a very light, creamy chevre and herbed cheese curds.
Vines were first planted here in the 1970s, but the winery itself wasn’t established until 2002. The current tasting room and production facility was built in 2005, and it offers several inviting indoor and outdoor seating areas where guests can purchase tasting plates and flights or bottles of wine and sit back and enjoy the views of the valley. My one quibble would be that our tasting host seemed to be responsible for too many areas and jobs to effectively interact with those of us in the tasting room. More staff and/or a more engaged personality may be in order. Our wine travels have taught us that a lively tasting room host who enjoys the wine he or she pours and meeting and sharing that with guests has a huge influence on their perception of the wine and, therefore, how much wine they purchase.
I think in this area, Wooldridge could have done better. We were eager to return to Cowhorn, a biodynamic winery producing Rhône-style wines, which we first visited around 2010. We fondly recall sitting outside the production barn, tasting these wonderful wines and chatting with owner Bill Steele about the holistic system which encompasses every aspect of his farm and vineyard. Our long-delayed return brought us to a magnificent new tasting room which has the Living Building Challenge Petal Certification. Built using local materials free from harmful chemicals and toxins, it is said to be 70 to 90 percent more energy efficient than conventional construction.
From the outside, its clean, modern lines make you wonder whether it will feel cold and clinical inside, but we found a welcoming, calm space magnificently bound on one side by enormous sliding windows admitting tons of natural light and a stunning view of the vineyards.
Our hostess proved knowledgeable about all aspects of the wines, their production, the vineyards and the building itself. The care and consideration that go into the wines really shows in the glass and on the palate, and we came away determined to return soon.
— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
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