The final historic site we visited on our trip to the area around Ephesus in Turkey was the ruins of the Basilica of St. John. It was built during the reign of the Roman emperor Justinian in the sixth century, but time and earthquakes have left little of the six-domed, once enormous sanctuary standing. It sits at the crest of a hill which looks out towards the coast and boasts views of an even more ancient religious site, the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World). I appreciated my visit here mostly, I think, because there were very few tourists about. There was a sense of serenity here that contrasted sharply with the bustle of ancient Ephesus and the commercialism at the House of the Virgin Mary.

Later in the day, we stopped on our way back to Kusadasi for lunch on the wide marble terrace of KoruMar Hotel Deluxe. The lovely stretch of Aegean coastline north from Kusadasi to Izmir boasts a number of resort complexes, with the KoruMar dominating its own peninsula with private beaches, a spa and a host of activities in and around the water for its guests. I could easily picture returning to this area and using such a resort as a base for daytrips up and down the coast.

We ended our day in Turkey back in Kusadasi, where one needs patience and a friendly but firm “No, thank you” for the unendingly persistent shopkeepers in the bazaars and along the main thoroughfares. We came intending to purchase a small carpet, though, and were pleased with the service and courtesy we received at a shop which had been recommended to us. We found the staff to be knowledgable, and they actually steered us away from a more expensive carpet that they felt wouldn’t serve us as well in the high-traffic area where we planned to put it.

Later, as we finished choosing some lovely scarves for family members, the merchant who assisted us remarked that he appreciated that we had not reacted with impatience or rudeness when he had initially greeted us outside his doorway and invited us to view his wares. I thought, “Perhaps he doesn’t realize how weary the shoppers become with the aggressive behavior of some of the vendors,” but I was nevertheless glad that I had not succumbed to what I’m sure the locals must perceive as nasty American tourist behavior. A pleasant smile and a friendly tone of voice, even when one is saying “No,” is never a bad thing — and might even get you a bigger discount when you do buy!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor