We spent the second and third nights of our Iberian road trip in Santiago de Compostela, the terminus of numerous strands of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James, a major Catholic pilgrimage route since the ninth century. Walking the Camino (whose routes range from 110 km. to over 1,000) has grown in popularity over the past decade or so, with both the rigors and the camaraderie of the experience a draw for those of many different faiths (or none at all). Our travel companions, Paul and Julie, had hiked the Camino Frances (over 700 km.) two years ago and were eager to share with us some of the places they had visited along the way as well as their final destination.

We had a long drive from Burgos (see my blog from a few weeks ago on our visit there), so we stayed mostly on the well-maintained highways, stopping briefly in the cities of León and Lugo. The latter featured thick, ancient Roman walls   and Gothic churches.    Here we observed the symbol of the Camino, a scallop shell, embedded in the stone pavers.    Our route took us through a dry landscape of harvested fields of wheat, corn and sunflowers. We experienced lots of changes in elevation, with tunnels and long viaducts cutting through mountains and crossing steep valleys and gorges.

Once we’d dropped our luggage at our rooms at Hostal Airas Nunes, just two blocks from the Santiago Cathedral, we stepped out to explore. The old city, a UNESCO World Heritage site, features a warren of narrow rúas and alleys lined with shops, hostels, restaurants and a myriad of small museums. At the center sits the cathedral and government and city buildings surrounding a huge plaza where the Camino pilgrims end their journey. We watched as individuals and groups entered the square, some joyously singing and dancing, others clearly exhausted but with relief, pride and satisfaction etched on their faces. The impressive façade of the church loomed above us,   its newly refurbished stone released from the scaffolding that had enveloped it when Paul and Julie were here two years ago.

We learned later that the scaffolding has now taken up residence inside the church as renovations go forward to prepare for a grand celebration in 2021.      As a consequence, the pilgrim Masses normally scheduled daily here are located elsewhere around the city, and the spectacle of the enormous botafumeiro, a grand incensory which swings through the transept of the cathedral billowing incense, is suspended. Visitors can still see the mechanism from which it hangs;   view the ornate, gilded altarpieces and ornamentation;        and visit the crypt of the apostle St. James, whose remains are buried here. We weren’t up to standing in a long line to do so at the end of a long travel day, so we made our way outside.

Next week I’ll share some of the more secular sights we enjoyed around the city on our second day there.

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor