We met out-of-town friends recently at one of our favorite restaurants in the Rogue Valley: Smithfields in Ashland. We’ve dined there several times in the past, but we hadn’t been in over a year. The menu doesn’t change very much, with a daily fish special and an occasional switch-up in the dessert menu the only exceptions. Make no mistake, that is not a slam on the menu, as it offers plenty of great options, especially if you’re a carnivore.

Chef and owner Neil Clooney, an English expat, named his restaurant for the oldest meat market in London, and he sources most of the items on his menu locally. Known for his in-house charcuterie and nose-to-tail philosophy, his “meat-centric” menu nevertheless offers a few options for vegetarians and seafood lovers.

Portions are generous here, signaled, perhaps, by the small bag of popcorn on your copper-topped table in lieu of the usual bread basket. You don’t want to be filling up on bread once you see what’s to come. The menu offers a few “Munch” items, including house-pickled veggies and curry roasted cashews. Under the “Start” section, in addition to the aforementioned charcuterie board, are an eclectic range of first courses, some of which are ideal for sharing. There are a few soups, a few salads, and then amazing options like “House bacon beignets with maple chive crème fraiche,” roasted bone marrow, or St. Louis ribs with kimchi and a sweet chili ginger BBQ sauce. Next, “Developed” offers entrées served as complete plates, with sides, while “Meat” consists of half a dozen pork, beef, lamb and chicken options. “Sides” lets you pick and choose your veggie or starch companion to the meat on your plate (fries, mashed potatoes, collard greens and such). Wrapping up with “Sauce” (red wine reduction and green peppercorn, to name two of the six offered), one can play mix and match all night long to achieve a perfectly personalized meal.

When you have a large group, it’s easier to order a sampling of sides (each serves at least two diners); this evening we opted for individual selections. I chose the butter lettuce salad with a light and lovely Meyer lemon vinaigrette, Harry went for the grilled asparagus soup with crispy prosciutto,   and our companions shared a grilled romaine salad. Friend John chose one of my favorite “developed” entrées: cider-braised pork belly with bacon-braised collard greens, mashed potatoes and apple chutney.   Debbie also chose from the “developed” list, selecting the pan-seared scallops on a bed of wild mushroom risotto. 

Harry and I each chose a meat — me, the 14-ounce lamb porterhouse and Harry, the bone-in pork chop — and shared a mashed potato side.   I found my lamb rather fatty and gristly,  and Harry thought his pork was just a bit ho-hum. On reflection, we realized our mistake was in failing to order a sauce to complement the meats. (Our server should share a little of the blame for not inquiring whether we wanted to add a sauce.)

We wrapped up the meal with a wonderful carrot cake, complete with a spiral of candied carrot on top.   It proved another wonderful meal, and next time we’re back, we’ll be sure to order sauce!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor