Travelers in search of soft adventure — just two hours from America’s Gulf shores — find it in Belize, whether that adventure means diving the world’s second-largest coral reef, checking out Mayan ruins or trekking through virgin jungle.

Although this small Central American country lies just south of Cancun and the Riviera Maya in Mexico, it couldn’t be more different from its northern cousin. While Cancun has courted tourists by the planeload with promises of nonstop nightlife, Belize takes a more tranquil route. Here peace and quiet are far more important than partying, and ecotourism takes center stage.

Travelers find Belize an easy country to visit in many respects. Residents are of Spanish, Mayan, Creole, Caribbean and English descent. Add to this a growing expatriate population ranging from archaeologists and filmmakers (director Francis Ford Coppola owns more than one lodge here) to international investors and retirees. It all adds up to a diverse and welcoming destination.

Culturally, Belize combines elements of Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. The Maya were the first residents of the area, arriving sometime after 16 B.C. and thriving here, developing a sophisticated culture that understood astronomy and advanced mathematics. Today that early culture is recalled in Mayan ruins across the country.

It wasn’t until 1502 that word of Belize reached Europe; Christopher Columbus spotted the coast but didn’t land there. It was well over a century and a half later before European settlement began in the region. First falling under Spanish rule, Belize later became British Honduras, a crown colony of the United Kingdom. Self-government came in the 1960s; the country’s name was changed to Belize in 1973, although full independence wasn’t achieved until 1981.

Years of British rule left behind a legacy of English as the local language which, combined with good airlift (both international and domestic), makes this small sliver of paradise easily accessible to travelers from the United States. And, unlike some beach destinations, Belize has plenty to keep travelers occupied when they step off the sand, with an extensive menu of inland ecotourism activities as well as historic attractions showcasing the ancient Mayan culture.

Most visitors arrive in Belize City. With a modest population of 70,000, there is a redeeming charm about this somewhat dilapidated city. It is divided into 13 sections, each of which reflects a different part of Belize’s history. Haulover Creek, an arm of the Belize River, separates the commercial center from the northeast residential section. Albert and Queen streets, Belize City’s two main drags, bustle with activity and are joined by the Swing Bridge. The southern section is the oldest part of the city and forms its business district. On Regent Street, St. John’s Cathedral is the oldest Anglican church in Central America. The North Shore of the peninsula is home to some lovely old British-style colonial houses.

Most travelers, however, head straight to the beach resorts, especially to Ambergris Caye, the capital of the country’s tourism industry. Just a 15-minute flight from Belize City, this barrier island, located in the Belize District — one of 13 districts in the country — is 30 miles long and anywhere from 1,000 feet to three miles wide. The most developed of Belize’s many outlying islands is still a relatively unspoiled place. The island’s sole town, San Pedro, has only three main (but sand-covered) roads that are best traveled by electric golf cart.

Ambergris Caye lies, in places, just a few hundred yards from the Barrier Reef, the country’s most well-known and popular feature. The reef is the world’s longest, after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, and spans more than 200 miles, offering opportunities for snorkeling, diving and fishing.

North of the Belize District lies the northernmost, Corozal District. Here water lovers flock to the seaside town of Corozal, loca ted just 10 minutes from the Mexican border town of Chetumal. Good air access makes it easy to reach other destinations, an asset that has made Corozal attractive to travelers.

South of the Belize District, the Stann Creek District combines the attractions of beach and jungle. Its capital city, Dangriga, is also the capital of the Garifuna, who are descended from the Amerindian and African escaped and freed slaves who made their way here from the Caribbean islands. Today the Garifuna, with a population of close to half a million in Belize and neighboring countries, speak the Garifuna language and add their distinctive styles of dance, music and cuisine to the Belizean culture. South of the Stann Creek District, the Toledo District is one of the least populated, with small villages situated alongside ancient Mayan ruins.

Heading inland, two landlocked districts are favored by ecotourists: The Cayo District is a highland region along the Guatemalan border, remote and tucked into the jungle — a favorite of travelers looking for a back-to-nature experience. Activities here include spelunking, canoeing, kayaking, hiking, bird-watching and other outdoor pursuits. North of Cayo, the Orange Walk District, the country’s second-largest, is home to Mayan ruins and nature preserves.

LODGING

CAYO ESPANTO

This private island resort accommodates visitors in a handful of separate villas, each a private hideaway unto itself with a plunge pool and walls that open out to the sea. You’ll even have a dedicated houseman who serves as personal butler, waiter and bartender, just a call away via handheld radio. The Cayo Espanto experience starts before you arrive, with an online survey that covers everything from your preferred massage time to cocktail choices. The chef comes by daily to check on your evening selections, and a mini-fridge is stocked with your favorites.$$$$
CAYO ESPANTO
Three miles from San Pedro
tel 910 323 8355
http://www.aprivateisland.com

JOURNEY’S END RESORT
Reached by a private boat transfer from San Pedro, Journey’s End once had a reputation as an ultra-exclusive property, even appearing twice on Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. Today, however, the green resort emphasizes “barefoot adventure” and invites its guests to kick back and relax. Visitors can opt for bungalow cottages, suites or traditional guestrooms; beachfront cottages are just steps from the water’s edge. Although water clarity isn’t its best at this beach, it’s just a short kayak ride to the reef itself, where you can tie up your kayak in waist-deep water and snorkel. Adventurous guests can also book plenty of other activities, from manatee safaris to snorkel tours and dive excursions. $$$$
JOURNEY’S END RESORT
San Pedro
tel 800 460 5665 or 713 780 1566
http://www.journeysendresort.com

KANANTIK REEF & JUNGLE RESORT

Kanantik, which means “to take care” in the Maya Mopan language, is custom-designed down to its one-of-a-kind furniture. Surprising touches await — from an Italian wood-fired pizza oven to two-person rock-lined showers. Visitors enjoy an all-inclusive plan and an extensive menu of activities. Head out on a snorkel trip one day, kayak the nearby Sapodilla Lagoon to spot manatees or hike the world’s first jaguar preserve the next. Cabanas are largely open-air, although they offer the option of air conditioning. $$$$
KANANTIK REEF & JUNGLE RESORT
Dangriga
tel 877 759 8834 or 501 520 8048
http://www.kanantik.com

DINING

HARBOUR VIEW

Its view onto Belize harbor might be reason enough to visit this Belize City restaurant, but the innovative seafood dishes here are an even bigger draw. Diners can opt for a table on the wraparound verandah and enjoy dishes such as snapper cooked in banana leaves or pork tenderloin with a jalapeño relish. Many evenings feature live jazz. $$$$
HARBOUR VIEW
Fort Street, Belize City
tel 501 223 6420

ELVI’S KITCHEN

Known for its seafood and Mayan dishes, this casual eatery is a longtime favorite on Ambergris Caye and features the creations of Chef Doña Elvia Staines. A thatched roof and numerous ceiling fans, and even a living flamboyant tree growing through the center of the restaurant, keep the atmosphere authentically local, as does the menu including items such as Pibil pork, a smoked pork wrapped in banana leaves. $-$$
ELVI’S KITCHEN
Pescador Drive, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye
tel 501 26 2176
http://www.elviskitchen.com

THE WET LIZARD BAR AND RESTAURANT

With a name like the Wet Lizard, it’s not surprising that this Belize City eatery is laid back, funky and fun. Located on the boardwalk of the cruise ship terminal, this two-story restaurant serves casual fare including burgers, coconut lobster, seafood tacos, conch fritters and plenty of fruity cocktails. $$
THE WET LIZARD BAR AND RESTAURANT
Belize City Tourist Village, Belize City
tel 501 223 5973
http://www.thewetlizard.com

DIVERSIONS

Perhaps the greatest attraction for travelers in Belize is the countryside itself, a place with no shortage of recreational opportunities. Visitors can fill their days canoeing, whitewater rafting, hiking, horseback riding, spelunking, exploring Mayan ruins, swimming or just soaking up the sun.

Scuba diving is popular all along the barrier reef, which runs for 185 miles, but several places stand out among dedicated divers. Ambergris Caye is especially known for its access to the Northern Main Reef, 25 miles of unbroken reef lying just one-third mile offshore, where Mexico Rocks, Tunnels of Mata, and Caulker Cut challenge divers of varying experience levels. Fifty miles east of Belize City, Lighthouse Reef is considered by many to be the best diving in Belize, with drop-offs starting at a depth of just 30 feet. One of the top sites at Lighthouse Reef is the 150-foot-deep Blue Hole, a sinkhole boasting incredible stalactites (see photo previous page).

One of the most unique dive opportunities in the region is the chance to swim with the world’s largest fish: whale sharks. Weighing up to 20 tons and measuring as much as 65 feet long, they are found at the Gladden Spit Marine Reserve just beyond the reef from March through June. These plankton eaters, easily recognized by their size and by their white spotted backs, are best seen during full-moon periods. Numerous dive operators in the Stann Creek area offer tour packages for this unique sighting.

Mayan culture is also a top tourism draw. The site of Xunantunich is located eight miles west of San Ignacio Town in the Cayo District near the Guatemalan border. These ruins with their tall temples recall the apex of the Maya civilization that once ruled the region. Formerly a Mayan ceremonial site, the ruins, still under excavation, include more than 25 temples and palaces as well as six plazas. The centerpiece of the site is the 130-foot-tall El Castillo, once thought to be the tallest manmade site in Belize until the discovery of Caracol, also in the Cayo District. Caracol is also still under exploration but is already known to be the largest Mayan site in Belize. Canaa, or Sky Place, soars 143 feet from the floor of the surrounding rainforest.

Travelers looking for Mayan ruins easily accessible from Belize City head for Altun Ha. Located just 30 miles from the capital, the site is believed to have been inhabited by as many as 10,000 residents starting about 200 B.C. The largest building at this site is the Temple of the Masonry Altars. If it looks a little familiar, maybe it’s because it was used as a model for the logo of Belize’s national beer, Belkin.

One of the top places to view the jungle is Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in the southern Stann Creek District. Originally established as the world’s first jaguar preserve, these 100,000 acres are also home to puma, ocelot, jaguarundi, and almost 500 bird species including the keel-billed toucan.

While the jaguar is the highlight of Cockscomb, nearly 1,000 black howler monkeys are the residents of the Community Baboon Sanctuary, located 30 miles west of Belize City. The sanctuary includes 18 square miles of small farms and habitat favored by the monkeys, with walking trails and a small nature center.

Another favorite ecotourism stop is St. Herman’s Blue Hole National Park (Hummingbird Highway,  Belmopan). Not to be confused with the marine Blue Hole, this inland park features a collapsed karst sinkhole. Surrounded by dense rainforest, the 25-foot-deep sinkhole is a spectacular azure blue and a favorite of swimmers. Here the jungle is home to Herman’s Cave; visitors can follow the Hummingbird Loop through the undergrowth to the cave entrance and even walk about 300 yards inside for a peek at the stalactites and stalagmites. The 575 acres of jungle are also home to jaguar, ocelot and jaguarundi as well as more than 200 bird species.

LOCAL FLAVOR

Like the population itself, the cuisine of Belize boasts a mixed heritage with traces of Caribbean, Mayan, Spanish, Mexican and other cultures. Fresh seafood is tops on most menus, with favorites such as conch and lobster appearing alongside the traditional rice and beans. Many dishes are seasoned with red recardo, a paste primarily made from anato, the fruit of a local tree, and seasoned with ground garlic, black pepper, cumin, onion and vinegar.

INFO TO GO

Flights from the United States arrive at Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE), about 10 miles from Belize City. The ride into town by taxi takes about 20 minutes and costs about $20 (you might have to negotiate fares in advance). There is also a bus that runs between the airport and the city center. From Belize City you can board water taxis to the cayes (http://www.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com). The water taxi trip to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye takes 1-1⁄2 hours and costs $10 each way.