Founded in 2000 B.C., Ankara became Turkey’s capital almost 4,000 years later, in 1923, under the Republic’s founder, Ataturk. Located far inland in central Anatolia, Ankara is Turkey’s political center, a cosmopolitan city with theaters, universities and major museums.

Ankara is also a place of extraordinary historical sites. The ruins of the ancient castle — Kale, or the Citadel — overlook modern Ankara. The Citadel is encircled by an immense inner and outer wall. Scores of carpet sellers, leather workers and antiques dealers still circulate here, as well as in its covered market. The Citadel is part of Ankara’s old town district, Ulus, and it is a delight to stroll. Its steep, winding lanes were once frequented by a series of conquerors, including the Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Seljuk Turks. The gates to the Citadel’s Kaleici Square date from the period of Suleiman the Magnificent.

The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, Turkey’s finest archaeological collection, sets out the relics of Asia Minor in order, from the Stone and Bronze ages through the earliest periods of civilization as the Assyrians, the Hittites and even the Phrygians under King Midas crossed the steppes of Anatolia.

Roman ruins abound, too, including those of a theater, a bath, the column of Emperor Julian (A.D. 362) and the Temple of Augustus, now undergoing restoration. On a more modern but already historical note, the mausoleum of Ataturk and a museum devoted to this founder of modern Turkey are located high above the city’s Anittepe quarter.

With a population of more than 4 million, Ankara serves as the gateway to Anatolia’s more remote attractions, including the traditional village of Baypazan, uncanny Cappadocia and the coast of the Black Sea.

Info To Know

Ankara Esenboga International Airport (ESB), about 18 miles northeast of city center, is served by Turkish Airlines as well as several European airlines. This is a new facility, opened in 2007. Airport buses cost about $6.

In Ankara, the red and blue public buses require a five-ride electronic ticket. The same ticket works on the convenient Metro through the heart of the city and on the “light metro,” or Ankaray. Metered taxis and shared taxis (dolmus) on fixed routes are both inexpensive as well.

Numbers To Know

U.S. Embassy Ankara
110 Ataturk Blvd., Ankara 6100 tel 90 312 455 5555
http://turkey.usembassy.gov
Emergency tel 115
Ambulance tel 112
Fire tel 110
Police tel 155

Dining

Kale Washington
For traditional Anatolian fare, this venerable restaurant in two 400-year-old houses tops everyone’s list, including Bill Clinton’s. Doyran Sok 5–7, tel 90 312 311 4344.

Loca Restaurant
International and Mediterranean cuisine at their freshest make this the place to meet and dine. Istikla Cad 20, Ulus District, tel 90 312 310 4848.

Zenger Pasa Konagi
With flatbread from a brick oven, kebabs on a hot tile, views of Ankara and live guitar music, this Citadel restaurant puts on a real show. Doyran Sok 13, tel 90 312 311 7070.

Lodging

Ankara Hilton
Renovated in 2004, the Hilton is efficient and teeming with useful amenities, including a business center. Tahran Cad 12, Kavaklidere, tel 90 312 455 0000.

Sheraton Ankara
From its plush executive-floor rooms to the rooftop sundeck, this is the city’s top international hotel. Noktali Sok, Kavaklidere District, tel 90 312 468 5454.

Swissôtel Ankara
With rooms designed for the business traveler, this is Ankara’s best new addition. Yildizevler Mahallesi, Jose Marti Cad 2, Cankaya District, tel 90 312 409 3000.