Swimming through one of Mexico’s dimly lit underground rivers, the lyrics of Antonio Carlos Jobim’s famous “Waters of March” get stuck in my head. Over and over: “… and the riverbank talks of the waters of March, it’s the end of all strain, it’s the joy in your heart.” Jobim actually wrote the song about Brazil, but the images it brings to my mind are just as joyful because this water is providing therapeutic relaxation for muscles grown weary during an active family vacation in Cancún.

Despite Mexico’s easy accessibility from the United States, my family usually opts for more exotic destinations for our vacations. Now I ask myself why. After discovering an array of activities (both adventurous and tame), a dizzying number of accommodation options and a noteworthy dining scene, I quickly recognize what has drawn so many visitors here for the past 45 years. And it’s not just the short flight times and tasty guacamole.

Until the late 1960s, Cancún was a mix of small villages composed primarily of coconut farms. Less than a half century later, its hotel zone teems with tourists who spend their days ziplining, rappelling, exploring famous archaeological sites and soaking up the sun on silky, white-sand beaches. Anyone who has been here raves about the mesmerizing Caribbean Sea — clear, warm and radiating multiple shades of blue that make you wonder if you’re seeing it through some invisible filter. I think it’s a lot of hype until I see it myself. Now I’m a believer.

As hard as it is to tear ourselves away from the beach, we venture out to discover what Cancún has to offer. Beyond the zipline adventures my daughter politely declines, one of the more popular activities is swimming with dolphins, and with that we’re all okay.

We take a mid-morning ferry to Isla Mujeres, less than 10 miles off the coast heading east toward Cuba. It’s a 20-minute trip and not too rocky — at least on this day — which is good news for those of us prone to seasickness.

According to Mayan lore, the goddess Ixchel sanctified Isla Mujeres. When the Spanish landed here in the 1500s, they found female-shaped idols on the beach and thus called the land the Island of the Women, or Isla Mujeres. Today it’s a destination in and of itself. Tourists and locals tool around on bicycles or in golf carts, visit Garrafon National Reef Park or snorkel and dive along some of Cancún’s amazing coral reefs.

Our only stop on Isla Mujeres is the Dolphin Discovery Beach Club. One price gets us a package that includes lunch, beverages, towels, lockers and a one-hour swim with the dolphins. We go for the Royal Swim, including a dolphin handshake, hug, kiss and hand touch. But the ultimate thrills are the dorsal tow and foot push.

My brave 8-year-old volunteers first for the dorsal tow. She swims into the distant water and waits, arms stretched wide to either side. Once she’s in place, two dolphin fins emerge from the water next to her, and she grabs a fin in each hand. The dolphins rapidly pull her — all wide eyes, big smiles and giggles — back to us.

I volunteer for the foot push, having no clue what to expect. After swimming out, I extend my arms forward and my legs back, knees locked. Suddenly, I feel a firm push from dolphin snouts on the soles of my feet, and they propel me forward at a good clip. Before I know it, three-quarters of my body is above the water and I’m flying like Super Girl — just before my epic face plant.

Diving at the Cancún Underwater Museum © Nialldunne24 | Dreamstime.com

If swimming with dolphins isn’t your thing, you’ll find plenty of other activities around Cancún, from exploring the ancient archaeological sites of Chichén Itzá and Tulum to snorkeling around the Cancún Underwater Museum. But we decide not to overdo it to ensure we get some much-needed downtime — dining, hitting the spa and hanging out at our hotel beach and pool.

Accommodations vary greatly around Cancún, from the award-winning Ritz-Carlton to all-inclusive mega resorts like Moon Palace. But the one that stands out most to us is Nizuc Resort & Spa, the first luxury hotel in the Las Brisas Hotel Collection.

Built on a natural preserve not far from the airport, Nizuc feels like an escape into heaven. Unlike most of the properties in the hotel zone, Nizuc’s beach is along a protected bay with calm waters and gentle waves. After a swim in the sea and in Nizuc’s gorgeous infinity pool, my daughter agrees to hit the decked-out Winik’s Kids Club, where I’m surprised to learn, unlike most resorts, there’s no extra charge. In other words, free babysitting. I’m definitely okay with that.

A couple of colorful macaws in Xcaret Park © Elena Shirokova | Dreamstime.com

Once she’s settled, I head straight to the spa — the first ESPA-branded spa in Cancún and, from my perspective, Nizuc’s crown jewel. A personal spa concierge greets me and walks me through the hydrotherapy circuit: aromatic steam, cold shower, sauna, ice room with cool mist shower and vitality pool. Later, as I lie on the massage table, I‘m already scheming how to squeeze out time for another treatment.

But spa treatments will have to wait because the next day we’re at Xcaret — an eco-archaeological park just south of Cancún. The park is the brainchild of Miguel Quintana Pali, who was searching for a private beach house location in the mid 1980s when he discovered Mayan ruins, rivers and cenotes (natural swimming holes) as well as rich flora and fauna of the jungle. Pali felt the land should showcase the treasures of the area. “It was too beautiful to be seen by only a lucky few,” he says. This year the park celebrates its 25th year, still going strong.

Xcaret’s underground river © Enrique Gomez | Dreamstime.com

Soon after arrival at Xcaret, my daughter is at it again: swimming with a nurse shark and a stingray, then taking a casual stroll with flamingos before posing with colorful macaws. It’s here at Xcaret I find myself floating down that underground river with a Brazilian tune in my head.

We’re swimming in the Blue River, one of three at Xcaret that are part of the largest network of underground rivers in the world. There’s something ethereal about these subterranean waterways, as if they flow with the memories of ancient Mayans who once tapped these waters as their life source. In most, fresh rainwater seeps through porous limestone into the caverns, but given Xcaret’s proximity to the sea, the rivers here are a mix of fresh water and saltwater, which explains why my muscles are turning to mush.

Xcaret’s 200 acres encompass natural habitats for local wildlife, including spider monkeys, jaguars, flamingos and the otherworldly tapir. The park also hosts macaw and sea turtle conservation programs, the latter being the oldest, most extensive and successful conservation program of its kind.

But the true treasure of Xcaret lies in its storytelling performances including ritual Mayan ceremonies, pre-Hispanic drum and dance shows, equestrian demonstrations and a stunning evening Espectacular. This extravaganza highlights the stories, music and traditions of Mexico from ancient to modern times.

Despite being exhausted from walking all day, we’re riveted by this evening show, and I find myself tearing up witnessing the pride of the Mexican people singing along and chanting for their homeland. “¡Viva México!” they shout. And for a minute, even a little bit of this Irish-American feels Mexican.

Cancún Info to Go

Cancun International Airport (CUN) lies within a 15- to 30-minute drive to the hotel zone (varies by hotel). Contact your hotel in advance to find out if it provides a shuttle service, and book your return taxi through your hotel concierge, if possible.

Where to Stay in Cancún

Moon Palace Golf & Spa Resort One of Cancún’s many all-inclusive resorts, Moon Palace is like three hotels in one. Guests can dine at any of the 25 restaurants and bars at no extra cost. Carretera Cancun-Chetumal Km. 340 $$$$$

Nizuc Resort & Spa Located at the southern tip of Punta Nizuc, this contemporary chic resort, opened in 2013, has quickly gained popularity as the top spot for a private beachfront escape. Blvd. Kukulkan Km 21.26 $$$$$

The Ritz-Carlton, Cancún This seaside property has won numerous awards and is the only AAA Five Diamond Resort in North America with two AAA Five Diamond restaurants. Retorno del Rey 36, Zona Hotelera $$$$$

Restaurants in Cancún

Fantino Considered one of the best restaurants in Mexico, this Mediterraneanthemed restaurant earned AAA Five Diamond designation. The Ritz-Carlton, Cancun, Retorno del Rey 36, Zona Hotelera $$$$$

La Habichuela Sunset With two locations, this authentic restaurant does seafood well. The location in the hotel zone also features a Mayan dance show on weekends. Blvd. Kukulcan Km 12.6, Zona Hotelera $$$$

Ramona This upscale restaurant located at Nizuc Resort & Spa serves traditional but not common Mexican cuisine. Nizuc Resort & Spa, Blvd. Kukulkan Km 21.26 $$$$$