Riyadh has seen its share of turmoil over the years. The capital city of Saudi Arabia is often subject to the actions of extremists trying to topple the government by attacking the Westerners who represent the majority of the kingdom’s workforce – individuals who keep the infrastructure running, make up the majority of the region’s medical staff (Saudi citizens are entitled to free medical care), and plan and implement major construction projects. The number of Western workers in Saudi Arabia is estimated at 5 million (out of almost 26 million residents), approximately 35,000 of whom are American citizens.

It’s important to note, though, that these figures date from before the recent wave of attacks against and executions of Western workers. Even in light of attractive pay and incentive packages, including 30 days of vacation annually, free housing and free transportation, recent estimates suggest approximately 40 percent of Western workers have left the kingdom since the attacks began.

One of the kingdom’s major problems is the culture clash, a by-product of the enormous wealth held by those with interests in the oil reserves. Imagine for a minute a traditional culture based on values and a social code more common at the turn of the last century suddenly volleyed into the realm of almost incomprehensible wealth and all the issues associated with that vast spending power. The Gulf War in 1991 opened Saudi Arabia to Western interests and led to the clash between progressive Saudis and those like Osama bin Laden who demand adherence to an extreme view of Islamic law.

It’s still unclear how that story is going to end. For those who do business in Riyadh, what follows is simply a review of the current climate and some information about the region’s attractions. Just keep in mind that, as in many places around the world, there are safety issues to consider.

A one-time oasis-like caravan stop — its name means “a place of gardens and trees” — Riyadh became the capital of Saudi Arabia in 1932. Today, the city boasts a population of 3.3 million. In the intervening years, Riyadh experienced an economic boom and an explosion of construction that brought the city towering office buildings and megaluxe hotels like those at the Kingdom Centre and at Al-Faisaliah Tower. A thriving commercial center, Riyadh is teeming with specialty shops and expansive malls. What Riyadh lacks in appearance and charm (Jeddah holds the title in those categories), it makes up for with interesting attractions, world-class shopping and renowned dining.

Exploring Riyadh on your own is difficult. Many of the signs are in Arabic, and locals often refer to places and street names long since changed. I strongly suggest hiring a driver. Major construction projects during the last decade have dramatically changed the face of the city. Two new city centers already mentioned, Al-Faisaliah Tower and Kingdom Centre, boast attention-grabbing designs that stand out from the stoic functional styles of earlier structures. The impressive Al-Faisaliah Hotel presides over the city with a 30-story tower topped with a steel crescent. A popular focal point, it’s been dubbed the “Eiffel Tower of Riyadh.”

Another of Riyadh’s highly acclaimed hotels, Four Seasons Riyadh, features a tower with a needle-like hole at its pinnacle. The 342-room hotel is on the top 10 floors of the Kingdom Centre. The balance of the property consists of a mix of office, meeting, retail and restaurant space. A separate “ladies-only” shopping mall is on the drawing board.

Doing business in Saudi Arabia is very different from doing business in other destinations you may have visited. Social interaction among business associates is common. You may even be invited to dinner or tea at the home of your Saudi host. A few years ago, a colleague had an interesting encounter in Riyadh. He was among a group of eight or 10 associates touring the city when a local businessman invited the entire group to lunch at his home. They enjoyed coffee, lunch (served by the gentleman’s wife, whom they never actually saw), pipe-smoking and even some traditional music performed by their host.

When in doubt regarding business protocol, follow your host’s lead. For example, while it’s customary to shake hands at the start and end of a meeting, a traditionally American John Wayne-style handshake is shunned as overly aggressive. A gentle handshake is preferred. It’s also a good idea to have your business cards translated into Arabic and printed on the back. Clean, professionally printed copies of business presentations, in Arabic, are also appreciated. Casual dress in business settings is frowned upon. Stick with proper business attire. And always accept the offer of coffee or tea. It’s considered rude to decline the symbolic gesture. If you smoke, be sure to offer cigarettes to others in the room.

When dealing with members of the ruling family (this is quite possible as there are many in the business sector), address senior princes and princesses as “His (or Her) Royal Highness.” Junior princes and princesses are addressed as “Your Royal Highness.” It’s important to be friendly and respectful. Speaking about your family or asking about your associates’ families is usually well received. It’s tricky, though. While asking about family is acceptable, never ask directly about an associate’s wife.

Saudi Tee

Saudi Arabia’s first and only 18-hole championship grass golf course,
Dirab Golf and Recreation Center, is located in the beautiful valley below the Tuwaiq Mountain Escarpment, about 30 to 40 minutes from Riyadh. It’s an adventure well worth undertaking even if your sole purpose is to be able to recall the experience with your golf buddies back home.

The “grass course” description is of particular note since golf in the kingdom used to mean carrying your own Astroturf mat to lay on the sand before hitting your ball. Happily, that’s quickly changing as the sport continues to gain an appreciative following. A bit of history: In 1940, employees of American-owned Aramco located in the kingdom’s eastern province laid out Saudi Arabia’s first golf course. Rather than build “greens,” the resourceful group mixed oil and sand to create “browns” and the process was quickly adopted throughout the kingdom. While some courses still feature “browns,” they’re losing favor to the more traditional courses being built throughout the country.

Since Dirab Golf and Recreation Centre is a private course, it’s necessary to make arrangements with the pro (Jim Christie, tel 966 1 4593686, fax 966 1 4583017).

Women in Business

The U.S. Department of State advises Americans visiting Saudi Arabia to be aware that norms for public behavior in that country are extremely conservative, and religious police, known as Mutawwa, are charged with enforcing these standards. Mutawwa are required to carry special identification and usually are accompanied by uniformed
police. However, in some cases they have detained people even without police presence.

The Saudi Embassy in Washington advises women traveling to Saudi Arabia to dress in a conservative fashion, wearing ankle-length dresses with long sleeves, and not to wear trousers in public. In many areas of Saudi Arabia, particularly Riyadh and the central part of the kingdom, Mutawwa pressure women to wear full-length black coverings known as abayas and to cover their heads. Most women in these areas therefore wear abayas and carry headscarves to avoid being accosted. Women who appear to be of Arab or Asian origin, especially those presumed to be Muslims, face a greater risk of being confronted.

Some Mutawwa try to enforce the rule that men and women who are beyond childhood years may not mingle in public, unless they are family or close relatives. Mutawwa may ask to see proof that a couple is married or related. A woman who is arrested for socializing with a man who is not a relative may be charged with prostitution. Some restaurants, particularly fast-food outlets, have refused to serve women who are not accompanied by a close male relative. In addition,  many restaurants no longer have a “family section” in which women are permitted to eat. These restrictions are not always posted, and in some cases women violating this policy have been arrested. This is more common in Riyadh and in the more conservative central Nejd region.

Day Trip

The ruins of the ancient city of Dir’iyyah lie about 45 minutes from Riyadh.Well worth the trip, they offer modern-day travelers a glimpse into the time when camels were the primary mode of transportation here and oases dotted the desert. Founded in 1446 by Maani Al-Muraidi, Dir’iyyah was the first capital of Saudi Arabia. The entire complex sits on a plateau surrounded by mud walls (restored) and flanked by imposing watch towers (all accessible for your inspection). The city covers about 5 square miles and is a photographer’s dream-come-true. (See “Dos and Don’ts.”)

Highlights

Palace of Salwa—Said to be where Mohammed ibn Abd al-Wahhab lived and ruled, the massive structure at one time towered four stories — a skyscraper in its day. Palace of Thunayyan Bin Saud—This was Saud the Great’s brother’s palace. Check out the well in back. Palace of Mishaari—Ruins are worth exploring. Al-Turaif Bath—Restored bathhouse offers a sense of daily life in the city.
Palace of Saad bin Saud—Noted for it many turrets, this fortresslike structure has been restored. Today’s royal family often holds ceremonies here in honor of the site’s historic significance.

LODGING

SHERATON RIYADH HOTEL AND TOWERS

Elegantly crafted of Italian marble inlayed with Islamic motifs,
Sheraton Riyadh Hotel and Towers is designed to complement the architecture and atmosphere of its location. Strategically situated in the heart of the city center and the modern business district, Sheraton Riyadh Hotel and Towers is less than 20 miles from King Khalid International Airport (KKA). Nonsmoking rooms are available.
Services and amenities include a business center, an indoor swimming
pool, a fitness center, Internet access in the business center and
three dining venues.
SHERATON RIYADH HOTEL AND TOWERS
Olaya and Mecca Road
P.O. Box 90807
Riyadh, 11623 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 4543300, fax 966 1 4541889
www.starwood.com

RIYADH MARRIOTT HOTEL

The Michelin five-star Riyadh Marriott Hotel is conveniently located in the heart of Riyadh’s corporate, financial and governmental sectors, just minutes from the city’s major shopping malls and the city center. Guestrooms are wired for high-speed Internet, and wireless connections can be accessed in the hotel lobby, restaurants, convention center and health club. Nonsmoking rooms are available.
RIAYDH MARRIOTT HOTEL
Al Ma’ather Street
Riyadh, 11464 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 4779300, fax 966 1 4779089

INTERCONTINENTAL RIYADH
Situated amid 100 acres of mature gardens in the very heart of the city, InterContinental Riyadh features a nine-hole golf course just five minutes from the business district and 30 minutes from the airport. Services and amenities include 24-hour room service, laundry and valet, TV with satellite channels, voicemail, modem connections, in-room fax, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, squash courts and a 12-lane bowling alley.
INTERCONTINETNAL RIYADH
Maazar Street
Riyadh, 11481 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 4655000, fax 966 1 4657833
www.ichotels.com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RIYADH AT KINGDOM CENTRE

Priding itself on the distinctive service associated with Four
Seasons, this luxurious hotel located in Riyadh’s Kingdom Centre is
convenient to the city’s business, arts, cultural and shopping venues. Dining options include a poolside grill as well as restaurants serving Middle Eastern, Asian and Mediterranean cuisine.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RIYADH AT KINGDOM CENTRE
P.O. Box 231000
Riyadh, 11321 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 2115000, fax 966 1 2115001
www.fourseasonshotels.com

AL FAISALIAH HOTEL

Al Faisaliah Hotel boasts an elegant atmosphere that reflects the
tradition and style of Riyadh. Services and a menities at the stunning
hotel include dedicated 24-hour butler service, spacious accommodations, technologically advanced in-room communications systems, five culinary venues and a state-of-the-art health club.
AL FAISALIAH HOTEL
P.O. Box 4148
King Fahad Road
Riyadh, 11491 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 2732000, fax 966 1 2732001
www.alfaisaliahhotel.com

Day Trip

The ruins of the ancient city of Dir’iyyah lie about 45 minutes from Riyadh.Well worth the trip, they offer modern-day travelers a glimpse into the time when camels were the primary mode of transportation here and oases dotted the desert. Founded in 1446 by Maani Al-Muraidi, Dir’iyyah was the first capital of Saudi Arabia. The entire complex sits on a plateau surrounded by mud walls (restored) and flanked by imposing watch towers (all accessible for your inspection). The city covers about 5 square miles and is a photographer’s dream-come-true. (See “Dos and Don’ts.”)

Highlights

Palace of Salwa—Said to be where Mohammed ibn Abd al-Wahhab lived and ruled, the massive structure at one time towered four stories — a skyscraper in its day. Palace of Thunayyan Bin Saud—This was Saud the Great’s brother’s palace. Check out the well in back. Palace of Mishaari—Ruins are worth exploring. Al-Turaif Bath—Restored bathhouse offers a sense of daily life in the city.
Palace of Saad bin Saud—Noted for it many turrets, this fortresslike structure has been restored. Today’s royal family often holds ceremonies here in honor of the site’s historic significance.

DINING

Dining options abound in Riyadh hotels, so many business travelers
venture from their accommodations only to attend meetings or explore the city. If, however, you do want to find local flavor, here are a few suggestions.

AVADH

Priding itself on its Mogul design and Tandoori-style cooking, Avadh is an Indian restaurant that caters to business travelers. Try the chicken shahi masala, boneless cubes of chicken marinated in yogurt,
cashews and almond sauce, or bhuna mutton, a colorful lamb delicacy
flavored generously with cashews, tomatoes, cream and Indian spices, cooked in an oven and served sizzling hot.
AVADH
P.O. Box 19661
Olaya Tahlia Street
Riyadh, 11445 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 4654109, fax 966 1 4620509
www.avadh.com

GLOBE

Housed in a spherical glass structure, Globe offers a great panorama
of the city. The food is continental in style and not cheap, but like so many other destination restaurants, it is worth treating yourself for the experience.
GLOBE
Faisaliah Tower
King Fahad Road
Riyadh, 11491 Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 2733000, fax 966 1 2732590

GULF ROYAL CHINESE RESTAURANT

Be sure to try a fish dish at what many of my colleagues say is the
best Chinese restaurant in the kingdom. Dine amid Chinese artwork
and aquariums stocked with fresh lobster and shrimp (soon to become dinner), while sampling signature dishes like chicken with cashew nuts or Sichuan beef.
GULF ROYAL CHINESE RESTAURANT
Olaya Street
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 4640121

NAJD VILLAGE

A great place to sample the relaxed ambience of Bedouin-style dining
amid oversized cushions and Oriental rugs, Najd Village specializes
in jareesh (meat with yogurt), marqooq (soft flatbread) and kabsa
(savory chicken and rice casserole).
NAJD VILLAGE
Takhasussi Road
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
tel 966 1 4646530

NIGHTLIFE

If you are looking for nightlife, get on a plane and fly to Egypt —
Riyadh has very little to offer on this front. Of course, the consumption of alcoholic beverages is forbidden in the kingdom. Unlike the United Arab Emirates and Qatar, which have fairly liberal regulations by Middle Eastern standards, the only way you’ll enjoy a cocktail here is to get yourself invited to a function at the U.S. (or other foreign) Embassy. Still, you can relax with a cup of coffee and a good cigar. One of the best venues for that is at the
top of the Al-Faisaliah Tower, where you can choose from a comprehensive selection in the humidor. This is also one of the only places where Saudis mingle with members of the opposite sex.

Dos and Don’ts

Suits are appropriate for men. Women should wear the traditional
black abaya over their clothing (see “Women in Business”). The
conservative dress rule applies to leisure time, too. Stay away from T-shirts, tank tops or sleeveless shirts. Golf shirts are acceptable when worn with long pants.

Taking photos can be tricky. Always ask locals if it’s OK before snapping a picture. Never take pictures of government buildings, desalination plants, oil refineries or mosques.

Women and men are segregated in the kingdom, which means restaurants are either for men only, or have separate entrances for men and families.

Muslims pray five times a day. A call to prayer is sounded, and each prayer session lasts 10 to 15 minutes during which meetings, shopping transactions and other activities are suspended.