If the idea of Dublin as a romantic destination seems like an oxymoron, chances are you haven’t been here lately. This stately city, famous for its Georgian architecture and emerald green parks, has undergone a transformation in recent years, morphing into one of Europe’s chicest urban centers. Trendy hotels are the norm, along with uptown restaurants offering nouvelle cuisine and serious wine lists. Ireland’s capital also boasts cutting-edge fashion and a booming cultural scene.

Of course, the more traditional charms of Dublin — friendly pubs with sawdust on the floor, shops full of sturdy Irish knit sweaters and world-class museums — also exist, making this a multilayered ideally suited for business travelers who want to extend their stay with a spouse or special companion. Because there’s so much to see and, we presume, so little time, we’ve mapped out a sampling of some of the best the city has to offer.

DIVERSIONS

Dublin was made for walking, and travelers have the choice of going it alone or joining one of the city’s many guided walking tours focused on a variety of subjects, from poetry to beer. Actors and minstrels lead the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl (9 Duke St., tel 353 1 87 263 0270, http://www.dublinpubcrawl.com) stopping at some of the city’s most storied pubs. For only about $15, the guides dispense anecdotes and perform scenes from such literary giants as George Bernard Shaw, James Joyce and Brendan Behan. The two-plus-hour tour also includes plenty of opportunities for participants to sample some fine Irish whiskey. During the Walk Macabre (Trapeze Theatre Company, Stephen’s Green, tel 353 1 87 677 1512), guides dramatize works of Oscar Wilde and Bram Stoker and others while leading patrons to spooky sites ofmurder and mayhem.

Don’t miss the Gravity Bar at the Guinness Storehouse (St James’s Gate, tel 353 1 408 4800, http://www.guinness-storehouse.com) for some of the best views of the city. Be sure to stay for a frothy mug of brew — free with admission to the tour. Billed as the top tourist attraction in the city, the Storehouse offers visitors a guided walk through the brewing process via a series of displays and narration. If you prefer visiting pubs on your own, favorites include The Stags Head (Dame Court, tel 353 1 679 3701), a Victorian pub that offers open-mike night as well as professional entertainment; O’Donoghue’s (15 Merrion Row, tel 353 1676 2087) for a spot of Irish music; and the newly revamped Slattery’s (Capel Street, tel 353 1 874 6844).

Art and romance go hand in hand in Dublin. On Sunday mornings, local artists display their work in Merrion Square. Visit Trinity College (College Green, tel 353 1 896 1661, http://www.tcd.ie) for a look at the beautifully intricate Book of Kells and the eye-popping Old Library with its thousands of old and rare books. Dublin Castle (tel 353 1 677 7129, http://www.dublincastle.ie) is a 13th century fortress that overlooks the River Liffey. The castle has seen its share of drama during its long history, from the ysterious theft of the Irish crown jewels to the prisoners holed up in its imposing medieval tower. Those with more modern sensibilities should visit the Irish Museum of Modern Art (Military Road, Kilmainham, tel 353 1 612 9900 http://www.modernart.ie) situated in the lovingly restored Royal Hospital or take in the National Museum Decorative Arts and History (Collins Barracks, tel 353 1 648 6453, http://www.museum.ie) which displays everything from costumes to furniture.

No romantic sojourn to Dublin is complete without at least one visit to the theater. The Abbey Theatre (26 Lower Abbey St., tel 353 1 878 7222, http://www.abbeytheatre.ie) has been staging works by Ireland’s favorite sons since the beginning of the 20th century. Productions also include the classics. Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar is on the docket beginning this month. Newer works are performed in the smaller Peacock Theatre downstairs. Or opt for a lighter tone at the Olympia Theatre (72 Dame St., tel 353 1 679 3323) where events range from comedy to rock music.

Buy your special someone a souvenir on Grafton Street, a pedestrian-only district in the city center. Stop in at the Dublin Bookshop (24 Grafton St., tel 353 1 677 5568) where entire sections are devoted to Irish writers. Warm up with a cup of tea at Bewley’s Oriental Café (78-79 Grafton St., tel 353 1 677 6761). For traditional Irish wares — knits, pottery, crystal and jewelry — try Kilkenny Design Workshop (5/6 Nassau St., tel 353 1 677 7066).

Nothing says romance like a horse and buggy ride, and in Dublin you can enjoy the sights and get a little local history from the driver at the same time. Buggies can be found along St. Stephen’s Green. Prices vary by the length of the tour. Or navigate the city like a local. Rent a bike at Cycleways Ltd. (185/186 Parnell St., tel 353 1 873 4748, http://www.cycleways.com).

LODGING

THE CLARENCE

The Clarence — owned by U2’s Bono and The Edge — exudes hip charm. This 43-room, five-suite boutique property situated in the trendy Temple Bar area overlooks the River Liffey and is within walking distance of the shops, art galleries and restaurants. The property is located in a historic building and features a spare, contemporary decor and an onsite museum with a celebrity-filled autograph book. $$$$
THE CLARENCE
6-8 Wellington Quay
tel 353 1 407 0800, fax 353 1 407 0820
http://www.theclarence.ie

THE MERRION HOTEL

Don’t let its unprepossessing exterior fool you. The understated facade of this Georgian hotel — which actually comprises four 18th century townhouses restored and joined together — belies a surprisingly quirky and playful interior. The common rooms feature a more traditional look complete with sumptuously decorated drawing rooms where guests indulge in high tea by a roaring fireplace. $$$$
THE MERRION HOTEL
Upper Merrion Street
tel 353 1 603 0600, fax 353 1 603 0700
http://www.merrionhotel.com

THE MORRISON HOTEL

This newly refurbished property features 138 rooms studded with original art and antiques, as well as the latest in high-tech gear including complimentary broadband Internet, an Apple Mac with LCD screen, keyboard and wireless mouse, and an iPod docking station. Beds are topped with Frette linens and cozy duvets. Located in the city center, the property also offers the Halo restaurant and, set to open this spring, a spa with six wet and dry treatment rooms and a Turkish bath. $$$$
THE MORRISON HOTEL
Ormond Quay
tel 353 1 887 2400, fax 353 1 878 3185
http://www.morrisonhotel.ie

DINING

BROWNES RESTAURANT

If you harbor any lingering doubts about whether Dublin has arrived on the culinary scene, dinner at Brownes Restaurant will put them to rest. Situated in Brownes Townhouse — a 12-room hotel famous for having a bed that once belonged to Marilyn Monroe — the restaurant offers Irish specialties prepared with a modern flair, such as tartare of Irish salmon with créme fraiche and chargrilled beef with parsnip puree. $$$$
BROWNES RESTAURANT
22 St. Stephen’s Green
tel 353 1 638 3939
http://www.brownesrestaurant.com

TOWN BAR & GRILL

A taste of New York in Dublin, this new Italian eatery is located in the old cellars of a wine merchant. As such, the wine list is miles long, and the menu is varied from soup to nuts — or in this case, from the fritti di mare to the tiramisu. Wait staff help pair the right wine with each meal, which is served in a dining room featuring understated, muted colors and furnishings. $$$$
TOWN BAR & GRILL
21 Kildare St.
tel 353 1 6624724
http://www.townbarandgrill.com

TROCADERO RESTAURANT

The perfect place to dine when you also want to take in a play, this restaurant features a prix fixe pre-theater menu 5 p.m.-7 p.m. Choose from such starters as fried brie with cranberry sauce or pate, followed by cannelloni, aubergine timbale or roast breast of Barbary duck. Stop by after the show for an a la carte menu, and don’t be surprised to find some of the South End’s actors dining at the next table. $$
TROCADERO RESTAURANT
3 St. Andrews St.
tel 353 1 677 5545
fax 353 1 679 2385
http://www.trocadero.ie

BEYOND DUBLIN

Dirty Boots Treks This colorfully named company guides small groups on mountain hikes. Don your most comfortable footwear and explore the scenic Wicklow mountains south of Dublin, or venture farther afield to Donegal, Kerry and the picturesque Dingle peninsula. Hikes are graded by difficulty, and guides will pick you up and drop you off in Dublin. (tel 353 86 387 4111, http://www.dirtybootshikes.com)

Dalkey A beautiful medieval village on the south side of Dublin, Dalkey is the perfect spot for a walk along the coast. In addition to great scenery, reminiscent of the Bay of Biscay between France and Spain, you’ll spot the trophy homes of such Irish superstars as Bono and Enya. Poke along the village streets lined with antique shops, galleries and old book shops. Enjoy a pint in The Queens, a traditional pub on Castle Street, followed by a meal at the Guinea Pig Fish restaurant. (http://www.dalkeyvillage.com)

Druids Glen Golf Course Convenient to Dublin, Druids Glen Golf Course in County Wicklow hosted the Irish Open for four consecutive years and won the European Golf Course of the Year award from the International Association of Golf Tour Operators in 2002.Visitors are welcome, but book ahead to reserve tee times. (tel 353 1 287 3600, http://www.druidsglen.ie)

INFO TO GO

Dublin Airport (DUB), the only airport serving Ireland’s capital, is situated about seven miles from the city center. Transfer to the city via taxi or Airlink bus, which also connects to train and bus stations. The new Aerdart Shuttle Bus Service links the airport to the Dublin Area Rapid Transport system. Visitors who purchase a Dublin Pass, available from http://www.visitdublin.ie recei,ve free transportation by Aircoach bus from the airport to the city, as well as free admission to more than 30 top attractions.

In the city, it’s a good idea to avoid driving — traffic is heavy and parking is scarce. There are 30 DART stations and trains are frequent. The Dublin Bus also runs often, but doesn’t adhere as strictly to timetables. Taxis are metered with a minimum charge of about $5, but the city is so compact you may be tempted to forgo the ride in favor of a stroll.