Global Traveler’s annual Wines on the Wing International Business Class Airline Wine Competition always turns up surprises and ironies. And so it did during the 2007 event at the Millennium Broadway in New York City, which supplied, among our many requests, 1,600 wine glasses and 400 Champagne flutes. It was a seamless event where 36 professional judges tasted and evaluated 120 wines. A somewhat ironic outcome this year was that of the three highest scoring winners, two are airlines from countries not associated with winemaking and the third airline represents a country that produces a relatively small amount of wine, little of which is exported. Another interesting outcome is that of the Top 10 White Wines, seven are from Burgundy, a first for Wines on the Wing. The remaining three include two from Germany and one from Austria. A third surprise was that after years in which the Top 10 Red Wines represented almost as many countries as there were winners, this year, the category was dominated by France, garnering eight of the 11 spots (the Top 10 plus one tie). California won two places and South Africa won one.

A fourth outcome, however, is not a surprise. And that is the very fact that offering passengers outstanding wines that achieve high scores against strong competition is not happenchance. It takes effort and dedication. And it takes money.

Of the three highest scoring winners, two are airlines from countries not associated with winemaking.

It was in this setting, in competition with 24 other airlines, that EVA Airways amassed the highest overall score to win our Wines on the Wing award. The largest privately owned airline in Taiwan, EVA Airways spends $2.5 million on its wine program annually and almost half of that — $1.2 million — is allotted to its international business class program. Quality does not come cheaply. But then, quality pays.

EVA Airways also tied for second place among Top 10 Red Wines with its Château du Tertre 2001. Among Top 10 White Wines, it won fifth place for its C. von Schubertsche Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 2003 and seventh place for its Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru “Blanchot” 2002. It placed sixth among Champagnes with its Pommery Cuvée Louise 1996.

“It’s an honor for EVA Airways to be recognized for ‘Best Wines on the Wing,’” said Robert Yang, executive vice president of the airline’s Cabin Service division. “We take our wine selections very seriously. Now we have confirmation from a panel of leading wine experts that our palate meets the highest standards.”

EVA Airways’ wines are chosen by Evergreen Laurel Collection and the airline’s own wine consultant, Jason Liu.

The airline with the second highest score was Thai Airways International, the national carrier of Thailand. The country does have a small winemaking industry, although the airline’s five entries are all from France.

As well as its high second place showing, Thai Airways took first place among red wines with its Gevrey-Chambertin 2003 from Albert Bichot. “Good cherry flavors, nice backbone,” judge Felicia Sherbert wrote. “Elegant, a classic profile,” W. R. Tish added. The airline also took ninth place among winning whites with its Macon-Villages 2004, again from Albert Bichot.

Third place among all airlines went to Gulf Air, the national carrier for the Kingdom of Bahrain. Along with this honor, Gulf Air secured two places among Top 10 Red Wines: fourth place with Château Reysson 2002 and 10th place with Delheim Shiraz 2003 from South Africa. And it came in ninth among Champagnes with Beaumont des Crayéres, Grand Réserve, NV. To choose its wines, Gulf Air depends on a team of onboard sommeliers, its chefs and members of its executive management staff.

Of all the white wines entered this year, the highest scorer was American Airlines’ J. Wegeler- Erben Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 2004. “It is a wine that is extremely consistent,” the airline’s wine consultant, Diane Teitelbaum, said. “It is well-made and balanced year after year which is why we’ll be serving it again next year. We use the slightly drier version so it will complement more foods. I chose it because it fits my primary criteria for selecting any wine — it is delicious.”

The judges agreed. “Lovely with lingering fruit,” Mary Taylor noted. “Elegant, lush, great balance,” winemaker Roman Roth wrote. And, Moriya Bodie added, “Good acidity, lemony, surprisingly long finish.”

The Top 10 Champagnes category was led by Air Tahiti Nui’s entry, Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particuliére, NV, which David Frieser judged to be “rich, toasty, expansive with a nice biscuity finish.” Mary Gorman felt it had “good acidity, lively bubbles and good fruit finish.” And Eric Zillier commented on its “extraordinary length and balance.”

The same Champagne, submitted by SN Brussels Airlines, finished in second place just a quarter of one point behind (so that they are almost tied). Patrick Séré found it “refined and elegant with a long finish.” And yet another airline, Aer Lingus, submitted the same Champagne. This one scored only about a point and a fraction behind the two top winners (Perhaps there was a slight bottle variation?), high enough to secure eighth place on the Top 10 Champagnes list. Pol Roger Extra Cuvée Réserve, NV, from United Airlines, finished in third place.

In all categories, the distance between first and second place among winners was usually less than a point. Second place white wine winner, Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner 2005 from Aer Lingus was deemed “a good wine for food” by Patrick Séré, with “lovely fruit that resonates on the tongue” (David Frieser) and “lots of savory notes” (Mary Gorman).

Second place among red wines was a tie. American Airlines’ Château Batailly 2002 won praise for its “delicious nose, lovely Bordeaux fruit” from Darrin Siegfried; for “its very deep color and spiciness and balance” from Harriet Lembeck; and what Eric White described as its “aroma of dark currants with earth and mint and its good length and structure.” Also in second place was EVA Airways’ Château du Tertre 2001. Karen King liked its “suppleness”; winemaker Gilles Martin admired its “structure”; and Katherine Moore noted its “beautiful balance.”

We could say the same for our 36 judges — professionals all who, taking their task seriously, were balanced, structured, refined and elegant.

PARTICIPATING AIRLINES

Aer Lingus
Air Canada
Air New Zealand
Air Tahiti Nui
Alitalia
American Airlines
Asiana Airlines
Continental Airlines
Czech Airlines
Eos Airlines
EVA Airways
Gulf Air
Iberia Airlines
Japan Airlines
LAN Airlines
Lufthansa
Malaysia Airlines
Northwest Airlines
Qantas
SN Brussels Airlines
South African Airways
TAP
Thai Airways
Turkish Airlines
United Airlines

TOP 10 OVERALL

EVA AIRWAYS
THAI AIRWAYS
GULF AIR
EOS AIRLINES
SN BRUSSELS AIRLINES
AMERICAN AIRLINES
ASIANA AIRLINES
NORTHWEST AIRLINES
LUFTHANSA
AIR CANADA

TOP 10 RED WINES

Gevrey-Chambertin 2003,
Albert Bichot (Thai Airways)
Château Batailley 2002,
Pauillac, Grand Cru Classé (American Airlines)
TIE
Château du Tertre 2001,
Margaux, Grand Cru Classé (EVA Airways)
La Cauviniére 2003,
Vin de Pays du Gard (Air Tahiti Nui)
Château Reysson 2002,
Haut-Médoc (Gulf Air)
Château Plagnac 2002,
Médoc Lufthansa)
Château Greysac 2003,
Médoc Thai Airways)
Murrieta’s Well 2002,
Red Meritage, Livermore Valley, California (Northwest Airlines)
Château Lynch-Moussas 2003,
Pauillac, Grand Cru Classé (Eos Airlines)
Lincourt Cabernet Sauvignon 2002,
Santa Ynez Valley, California (Eos Airlines)
Delheim Shiraz 2003,
South Africa (Gulf Air)

TOP 10 WHITE WINES

J. Wegeler-Erben Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 2004,
Germany (American Airlines)
Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner 2005,
Austria (Aer Lingus)
Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran 2005,
Burgundy (Continental Airlines)
La Chapelle aux Loups, Saint-Véran 2005,
Louis Jadot, Burgundy (SN Brussels Airlines)
C. von Schubertsche Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling, Spatlese 2003,
Germany (EVA Airwa ys)
Saint-Romain 2004,
Maison Champy, Burgundy (Asiana Airlines)
Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis, Grand Cru “Blanchot” 2002,
Albert Bichot, Burgundy (EVA Airways)
Château de Marsannay 2002,
Burgundy (Czech Airlines)
Macon-Villages 2004,
Albert Bichot, Burgundy (Thai Airways)
Château de Mercey 2002,
Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy (Malaysia Airlines)

TOP 10 CHAMPAGNES

Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particuliére, NV*
Air Tahiti Nui)
Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particuliére, NV*
(SN Brussels Airlines)
Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve, NV*
United Airlines)
Gosset Excellence Brut, NV*
Turkish Airlines)
TIE
Joseph Perrier Brut 1999
Cuvée Royale (Malaysia Airlines)
Taittinger Brut, NV*
Eos Airlines)
Pommery Cuvée Louise 1996
EVA Airways)
Laurent-Perrier Brut L.P., NV*
(Air New Zealand)
Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particuliére, NV*
(Aer Lingus)
Beaumont des Crayéres Brut, Grand Réserve, NV*
(Gulf Air)
Jacquart Brut Mosaïque, NV*
Lufthansa)

* Non-vintage

JUDGING PROCESS

Participating airlines were asked to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or sparkling wine currently on their international business class wine lists, along with the lists themselves. The wines were coded, divided into flights, or categories, according to their type — such as Bordeaux or California Chardonnay — and served in numbered glasses. Judges were told only the type of wine, its place of origin and when appropriate, the vintage. If judges felt a wine was flawed, a reserve bottle was served. The tasting was monitored by Global Traveler staff and aides.

Each wine was judged on a 20-point scale. The judges’ individual scores for each wine were added and averaged, and the averaged scores of an airline’s submissions were totaled. The airlines with the highest totals won the Wines on the Wing awards.

THE JUDGES

Cesar Baeza is winemaster and co-owner of Brotherhood Winery in New York State. A native of Chile, he studied winemaking there as well as in France, Spain and California, and worked at several California wineries before moving to New York.

Moriya Bodie is wine director of Lever House Restaurant in Manhattan.

Molly Choi is senior vice president of Cape Classics, a South African wine importer, where she is responsible for the marketing of more than 20 wine estates. She has been with Cape Classics for 10 years.

Don Dombrosky is sommelier at the River Café, Brooklyn, N.Y. In 1995, he opened the wine bar Casbah in Pittsburgh, and earlier, was a representative for Gateway Wines & Spirits. He often organizes wine dinners and tastings.

John Fanning is currently establishing the Accademia di Vino, an Italian restaurant/wine bar. He has been general manager and/or wine director of top Italian restaurants including Beppe, Felidia, Coco Pazzo, Le Madri and Palio in New York and Bramante and San Michele in Rome.

Michael Feuerstein is owner of Selections Pas Mal, a wine importer and distributor whose portfolio includes fine and rare wines from Burgundy, the Loire Valley, the Rhône Valley and Languedoc.

Barbara Frank is consulting winemaker and regional marketing representative for Dr. Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars and Chateau Frank Winery. A graduate winemaker, she has worked at S. Anderson, Schramsberg, Navarro and Domaine Mumm.

David Frieser is president of Beekman Liquors, Inc., a 49-year-old wine shop in Manhattan, and is a frequent wine lecturer for clients. He has been professionally involved in the wine trade for 25 years.

Mary Gorman is account director of Cornerstone Communications, New York, specialists in wine, spirits and food. She teaches at the Wine and Spirits Education Trust and is a candidate for Master of Wine.

David Gross is restaurant wine specialist for Southern Wine & Spirits, in the southern Hudson Valley of New York State. Prior to taking that position, he worked as a caterer. In all, he has been in the wine trade for over 20 years.

Nancy Hedeen is general manager/wine director of Colors Restaurant, New York. A certified sommelier, she was wine director at fresh. in TriBeCa and worked at the Ryland Inn, New Jersey. She is a candidate for Master of Wine.

Karen King is sales manager for Winebow, Inc., a wine importer. For 20 years she was a beverage director with the Union Square Hospitality Group. In addition, she teaches at the French Culinary Institute.

Mariko Kobayashi is wine director of Esca Restaurant. She has served as sommelier to the Japanese ambassador to the United Nations and has worked in retail at Italian Wine Merchants, Sherry Lehmann and winesby.com.

Harriet Lembeck is president of the Wine and Spirits Program, where she has taught both wine trade personnel and consumers for the past 26 years. She also is wine director of the New School University Culinary Arts Program.

Jennifer Malone-Seixas is sommelier and wine buyer for Fleur de Sel, a French restaurant in New York’s Flatiron District. Previously, she was the assistant sommelier at Alain Ducasse, also in Manhattan.

Gilles Martin is winemaker and consultant for Sherwood House Vineyards and Martha Clark Vineyards, Long Island, N.Y. Born in France, he studied winemaking at Montpellier and previously worked for Champagne Louis Roederer and Delas Frères.

Mark Mazur is director of Vinconsult where he consults for the industry and individual clients and conducts tastings for corporations, organizations and consumers. Previously, he was tasting director for Wine Enthusiast magazine.

David Milligan is president of David Milligan Selections, which represents top French producers. He has been in the wine trade for more than 40 years, beginning with his training in England. He also served as president of Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines.

Katherine Moore is general manager of Union Square Wines & Spirits, a New York City wine retailer.

Robin Kelley O’Connor has been trade liaison for the Bordeaux Wine Bureau for the past 18 years. During his tenure he has conducted more than 1,600 wine seminars in the United States, Canada and Mexico.

Thomas Pellechia is a wine lecturer and author of two wine books. He has been professionally involved in the wine trade for 25 years, as a winemaker, retailer and salesman.

Roman Roth is winemaker/general manager of Wölffer Estate, Long Island, N.Y., a winery he helped create in 1992. He is also a consultant to other wineries. He studied winemaking in his native Germany and worked in wineries there, as well as in Australia and California.

Patrick Séré is executive vice president of Dreyfus Ashby, a wine importer based in New York with which he has been associated for 27 years and where he is the chief liaison with the company’s suppliers.

André Shearer is chief executive of Cape Classics, importers of fine South African wines since 1992. A native of South Africa, in 1991, he arranged the first post-embargo tasting of his country’s wines in the United States three weeks after the ban was lifted.

John Sheldon is wine representative of Artisan and Pas Mal, two fine-wine importers and distributors; founder and director of the 34- year-old New York Wine Tasting School; and consultant to restaurants and private clubs.

Felicia Sherbert is president of What’s My Wine? LLC, a consulting and communications firm specializing in wine and spirits; and a member of the International Food and Beverage Forum and the Distinguished Advisory Board at Johnson & Wales University.

Darrin Siegfried is owner of Red, White & Bubbly, a wine shop, and wine director of Cucina, a restaurant, both in Brooklyn, N.Y. Previously, he was sommelier at Claude Troisgros’ CT restaurant and manager of several New York City restaurants.

Brendan Slaven is executive chef of the Millennium Broadway Hotel.

James Stahl is wine buyer and dining room manager of The Old Inn On The Green, New Marlborough, Mass., formerly wine consultant to Vintage Imports and Berkshire Wine Imports and beverage manager of John Andrews Restaurant Group.

Mary Taylor is chief of operations at Pasanella & Son Vintners, a wine shop at the South Street Seaport in Manhattan. Before that, she worked at Sotheby’s and Acker wine auctions.

W. R. Tish is creator of a series of “Wine + Food Comedy” dinners in New York City and developer of private and corporate wine events through his web site, wineforall.com. He is the former editor of Wine Enthusiast.

Eric White is sales manager of Food & Wine Associates where his specialty is the wines of South Africa. He was previously cellar master of Chelsea Wine Storage, a professional storage facility for premier restaurants and collectors.

Eric Woods is co-owner of Harlem Vintage, the first boutique wine shop in New York’s Harlem neighborhood, specializing in artisan wines from around the world.

Michael Yurch is president of Sherry-Lehmann in Manhattan. Before joining the retail wine firm in 1985, he was managing director of The Wine Cart in New York and he worked for The Wine Imports of America Corp.

Eric Zillier is wine director at Alto Restaurant in Manhattan. Prior to that, he spent four years as a sommelier at Veritas, also in New York.

Eva Wassemiller Zorad is manager and wine buyer for September Wines & Spirits, an artisan wine boutique in lower Manhattan.