Once upon a time, on an island far, far away, Waikiki was just the way you saw it in the Elvis films screened at your local movie theater. Outrigger canoes filled with lovely lei-bearing hula dancers greeted arriving cruise ships; the pristine white-sand beach was graced with the architectural splendor of only two hotels, the Royal Hawaiian and the Sheraton Moana Surfrider; buff beach boys taught visitors how to surf, with the legendary Duke Kahanamoku leading the pack; the unblemished silhouette of Diamond Head crater beckoned in the distance.

Even after Elvis had left the building, Waikiki still had a lot of charm and an irresistible lifestyle that drew millions of visitors and hundreds of thousands of adventurous newcomers set on relocating to paradise on a permanent basis.

But then a wave of development that began in the 1970s and surged through the ’80s and ’90s left in its wake a poorly designed, overcrowded, over-commercialized concrete jungle that overwhelmed what had been, not so long ago, one of the most beautiful places on earth. I know because I stopped going to Waikiki sometime around 1991. It just wasn’t worth the stress of warding off hand-billers, finding affordable parking and dodging the guy dressed in the chicken suit handing out free samples of macadamia nuts (don’t ask).

I, like many longtime Oahu residents, thought we had lost Waikiki forever.

And like many longtime Oahu residents, I was wrong. Look out Monaco — Waikiki is back and better than ever. It may no longer be that quaint seaside gathering place; the atmospheric watering hotel beloved by Jack London, who wrote about his adventures surfing in Waikiki back in 1907. Instead Waikiki has re-emerged as a dynamic beachfront city with fabulous shopping, fine dining, a great line-up of entertainment — and it’s done it all while carefully maintaining its Hawaiian sense of place.

The road to recovery hasn’t been easy. Spearheading the makeover, Outrigger Enterprises is the muscle behind the Waikiki Beach Walk Project. To date, Outrigger has invested $553 million to update its Waikiki properties. The largest private development projec tever undertaken in Waikiki, this facelift has transformed a once-tired 7.9 acres into what many are hoping will become the cornerstone of the visitor district. Aging concrete structures have made way for a more open, pedestrianfriendly marketplace. New hotels, shops and restaurants have revitalized the city. The Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center, just down the road on Kalakaua, has joined in with a remodel that turned what was once a huge slab of concrete confusion into a great place to stroll, shop and dine. Today, this is where you’ll find Cartier, Louis Vuitton and Chanel among other highend boutiques — and there’s even free daily entertainment in the waterfall courtyard.

Directly behind the shiny new Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center is the Royal Hawaiian Hotel or “Pink Palace.” An icon of luxury since 1926, it is still home to the celebrated Surf Room, a favorite with visitors and locals alike. Situated smack on top of Waikiki Beach, just steps away from sunbathers, I could spend hours people- watching from this open-air restaurant (and I do at Sunday brunch). The pink canopies make for magical lighting and the view of Diamond Head isn’t bad either. Not to be outdone, the Sheraton Moana Surfrider — widely regarded as the “grande dame” of the original Hawaii hotels — still offers up old-world charm and legendary service. The property faces the beach and is built surrounding a huge courtyard where musicians perform Hawaiian music each evening just before sunset.

Afternoon tea at the Sheraton Moana Surfrider is a little-known delight that transports you back to a time when life in Waikiki set a slower pace.

Not too far away, just off Kalakaua, The Halekulani is an elegant beachfront hotel with stunning decor and world-class restaurants including the internationally acclaimed La Mer. Even cocktail service at The Halekulani goes above and beyond. House Without a Key (al fresco dining) and Lewers Lounge (a wood-paneled “gentleman’s club”) offer original creations by master mixologist Dale DeGroff, formerly of the Rainbow Room in New York.

A statue of legendary surfer Duke Kahanamoku stands at the Diamond Head end of Waikiki in Kuhio Beach Park. It’s a great place for a photo op. When friends are in town, we usually head here first then take in the free movies shown Saturdays and Sundays at sunset on the beach. I also plan a stop at the Hau Tree Lanai in the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. The menu is fabulous (Portuguese bean soup is a specialty) and all tables offer great views of Sans Souci Beach. The Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium, also located at the Diamond Head end of Waikiki, near lovely Kapiolani Park, are great places to while away the day.

The newly polished Waikiki is a wonderful place to explore. Each time I’m here I discover new favorites and rediscover oldies-but-goodies. Waikiki today is, for all intents and purposes, as it was in its heyday. It’s no longer a tourist trap. Instead, it’s a destination worthy of tourism.