As I round a corner along the sandy oceanside path, clumps of candelabra cactus and wild lavender give way, unexpectedly revealing a doorway just visible in a half-submerged rock formation. There’s a moment of disconnect: The doorway belongs to a sloping stone house built into a cluster of natural rock and bears a painted door. I consider the possibility this is some sort of Alice moment, and I’ve stumbled upon the entrance to an imaginary underground world.

My guide, Dario, breaks the spell, pointing to an enormous lizard scuttling by in the rocky thicket and explaining this is just one of many stone houses which track to the aboriginal Guanche people, who were early inhabitants of Tenerife. The Guanche dwelled on the Canary Islands long before the arrival of early Europeans and utilized cave homes. Many of these ancient structures — scattered throughout Tenerife and the other Canary Islands — are still occupied, albeit retrofitted with modern comforts and conveniences.

Geologic features, including volcanoes, natural swimming pools and deep caves, are endemic to Tenerife’s landscape, from the colossal Cueva del Viento lava tube and its interior lava lakes to the underground waterfalls and rock formations of Cueva de las Palomas. Curiously, enormous manmade stone structures coexist with these natural features in the form of the enigmatic Pirámides de Güímar. This collection of step pyramids was constructed of small stones that were somehow fitted together without the use of a binding agent to hold them in place.

Cueva de Los Pilares © Philip Stewart | Dreamstime.com

Who built them — and why — remains an enduring mystery. At Pyramids of Güímar Ethnographic Park, I met with museum director David Valcárcel Ortiz to see the structures for myself.

“The pyramids were ignored until the Norwegian explorer and anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl of the famed Kon-Tiki expedition showed up on Tenerife,” explained Ortiz. “Heyerdahl had spent time working on a Peruvian pyramid site and was intrigued.”

While no one has definitively determined the reason for their existence here on Tenerife, Heyerdahl was quick to dispel a theory posited by others that the intricate stone structures were merely the result of fields being cleared of stones by local farmers. While others have suggested the pyramids were built by Freemasons, the uncertainty of their origin only adds to their allure. Today the pyramids are surrounded by lush botanical gardens; a layout, according to Ortiz, that invites visitors to wander around the site and see the structures from different angles.

I’m particularly adept at wandering and spend some time following tidy paths leading to the well-tended flowering botanical arrays. There’s also a Poison Garden, where an assemblage of toxic plants grows in the shadow of the pyramids. In the mood for a little more nature exploration, I find my way from the pyramids to The Palmetum, not too far from the Santa Cruz cruise terminal. Once a landfill, this corner of the island has been transformed into a gorgeous parkland devoted to a multitude of palm species and claims the largest collection of palms in Europe.

Passing through a massive rock tunnel entrance, I follow a path bordered by unfamiliar trees. There’s a fabulous flame tree and
a rare delonix velutina, one of only three in the world cultivated from a seed. Informative signs explain how palms and palm fibers have been essential components in island products including rope, baskets and even vessels.

© Karol Kozlowski | Dreamstime.com

Tenerife’s trees include deep forests home to species dating to the Tertiary Period. But there are dramatic, barren stretches as well.

The island has more than 300 volcanoes, with the last recorded eruption occurring in 1909. Teide National Park, the location of
Spain’s highest peak, proves an excellent place to get an overview of the forces responsible for shaping the land, including the positive ones: The acidic volcanic soil contributes to the distinctive tastes of the wines grown here, including the delicious Malmsey wine produced from regional Malvasia grapes. As legend has it, the dukes of Plantagenet grew intoxicated by soaking in Malmsey, which was shipped in huge quantities to London and dispersed to Britain’s aristocracy. Malmsey also repeatedly appears in the works of Shakespeare, who was allegedly a fan.

Dario retrieves me after my tour of The Palmetum. As we head for the center of town, he regales me with bits of island history: Among its many events, Tenerife is where Admiral Horatio Nelson lost his right arm in a brutal naval battle that raged in the summer of 1797. Coveted for its deep ports, position close to the African coast and strong currents passing by enroute to the Americas, Tenerife became an essential stop on burgeoning European trade routes. This led to the island’s attraction for pirates, including the infamous Berber Pirates of Lanzarote.

We pass the Auditorio de Tenerife, an enormous, swooping concert hall designed by celebrated architect Santiago Calatrava. Its white arc seems to leap from the sea in a gravity-defying design, creating the sensation of hovering. While Tenerife is a wildly popular stop for major cruise lines, its roughly 785 square miles of Atlantic Ocean real estate offers far more to see and do than can be managed in a single port call or daytrip. I wave to Dario as he pulls away, already looking forward to my next visit.

LODGING
Gran Hotel Taoro 
Founded 134 years ago as Spain’s first grand luxury hotel and closed for 40 years, elegance remains the theme in 199 newly reopened guestrooms and suites. Indulgent treatments at Sandára Wellness Center feature Anne Semonin body care products.
Ctra. Taoro 9, Puerto de la Cruz,
Santa Cruz de Tenerife
$$$–$$$$

Sir Anthony Hotel
Slick, modern and providing views of both the ocean and El Teide volcano, the newly reopened Sir Anthony Hotel’s culinary program includes Canarian Soul Nights celebrating the island’s traditional cuisine.
Av. de las Américas s/n, Playa de las Américas, Arona, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
$$$$

Tivoli Caleta Tenerife Resort 
Located in an exclusive coastal area with a kitchen team led by celebrity chef Olivier da Costa, leisure options include SEEN Beach Club, a gym, golf, surfing, sailing, multiple swimming pools and Anantara Spa.
Calle la Enramada 9, Adeje, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
$$$$

DINING
La Hierbita 
This local institution dishes up tasty, traditional fare in an atmospheric, historic setting with plenty of kitschy touches. The menu offers a dependable selection of local favorites including Almogrote and tarta de la abuela. Enjoy it with a glass of Gran Tehyda D.O. Valle de la Orotava.
Calle Clavel 19, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
$$–$$$

Restaurant Taste 1973 
Housed within Hotel Villa Cortés in Arona and under the capable direction of Diego Schattenhofer, this eatery was recognized in 2024 with both a Michelin star and a Sol Repsol award. Make reservations to experience Schattenhofer’s “emotional, edible” perfumes.

Av. Rafael Puig Lluvina 38, Playa de la Américas, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
$$$–$$$$

Tasquita Lucas 
Fresh, local seafood and shellfish are menu stars in classic Mediterranean dishes at this casual eatery with plenty of vegetarian options. Serves lunch and dinner. Expect crowds when cruise ships are in port.

Av. Pedro Schwartz 13, San Andrés, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
$$

Palmetum of Santa Cruz de Tenerife © Jiri Castka | Dreamstime.com

INFO TO GO
Tenerife is accessible by sea or air. Both the Port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Los Cristianos serve cruise ships, while regular ferry service links the island to mainland Spain and Gran Canaria Island. Two airports provide connections to mainland Europe and other international destinations: Tenerife South–Reina Sofia Airport in the south and Tenerife North–Ciudad de La Laguna Airport in the island’s north region. Taxis, limousines and hotel shuttles serve all points of entry. Rental car agencies are represented at both airports. Minibus connections from the airports to Santa Cruz and other main towns are also available.