Montenegro only became an independent nation some 20 years ago, but the territory has been a crossroads of civilizations for millennia. Its coastal cities rank among Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements; and in its culture, cuisine and genetics, Montenegro bears the imprints of Illyrian tribes, Greeks, Romans, Ottomans and many others. Though the Bond film Casino Royale sparked an uptick in tourism, Montenegro remains a hidden gem: a laid-back land of seaside villages, pristine mountains and the Adriatic dolce vita. From sipping wine at a cliffside vineyard to horseback riding through highland meadows, Montenegro promises grown-up indulgence alongside family-friendly adventures.

If departing from the United States, you’ll likely have to connect through a European hub such as Frankfurt, Vienna or Zürich to reach Podgorica. Podgorica is a minor hub for Turkish Airlines, and flights from the Montenegrin capital to İstanbul or Athens are quick and affordable. Roughly the size of Connecticut, Montenegro packs an astonishing diversity of cultures and landscapes into a compact territory. With four or five days and a rental car — easily arranged in Podgorica — you can explore both the Adriatic coast and inland mountains. The coastal sea cliffs, fjord-like bays and ancient stone villages draw the most tourists, but inland Montenegro charms with horse ranches, family-run vineyards and breathtaking byways.

Over its storied history, the Adriatic entrepôt of Kotor dwelt under the banners of Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and a succession of other empires. Like the ancient Dalmatian ports of Dubrovnik and Zadar, Kotor lies behind a towering stone wall, its ramparts punctuated by ornate gates once opened for traders from the far corners of the known world. Its Old Town — a labyrinth of polished limestone alleys, Gothic churches and sun-drenched piazzas — is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

Perast © Milacroft | Dreamstime.com

After wandering the medieval lanes, head to Konoba Ćatovića Mlini to toast the sunset with a glass of Krstač and a plate of seafood crudo. Book a boat tour with Captain Ivan to explore the Bay of Kotor in all its splendor. A lifelong fishing guide, Ivan ferries guests to off-the-beaten-path villages, islands and waterfront restaurants. Cast a line into the bay or kick back on the aft deck to lounge in the sun and savor the dazzling views and cold beers from Ivan’s onboard cooler.

An old proverb says, “When you touch the waters of Perast Harbor, you touch the entire world.” Like Kotor, Perast was once a thriving port — a stepping stone along the Silk Road from Europe to China. Today this stone-clad jewel perches on a watery finger of the Bay of Kotor. Spend a morning wandering its cobblestone alleys and ducking into a local bakery for coffee and Perast cake, an almond-flour pastry enlivened with citrus zest.

For lunch, snag a table beside the harbor at Dardin, a restaurant famed for seafood crudo and delicacies like black risotto and grilled octopus. After relishing the catch of the day, order a sweet treat off the menu or stroll to one of the gelaterias along the waterfront promenade. Just across the bay in the town of Kumbor, One&Only Portonovi proves a playground for Europe’s rich, famous and beautiful. Rooms are as sumptuously decorated as a Venetian doge’s palace, and the property boasts three acclaimed restaurants: Italian, traditional Montenegrin and Japanese. Make sure to check out the hotel’s Olympic gym and beautiful swimming pools.

From the coast, take a two-hour drive to Kolašin, an alpine hamlet in the Bjelasica Mountains of northern Montenegro. With warm days and crisp evenings, Kolašin ranks among the Balkans’ most coveted skiing destinations; and in warmer months, it’s a haven for hiking, camping and rock climbing. Nearby Biogradska Gora National Park encompasses pristine old-growth forests laced with hiking trails. While away the afternoon in a kayak on one of the park’s crystalline lakes after a morning on the trails.

For dinner, savor hearty mountain fare like lamb cooked with wild berries or kačamak — a mash of cornmeal, potatoes and cheese — at Konoba Amanet. When sweet sleep beckons after a full day of outdoor adventures, retire to Swissôtel Resort Kolašin, a hotel inspired by the elegance of a Swiss Alpine chalet. Don’t miss the breakfast spread of artisanal jams, fresh cheeses and peganice — fluffy balls of fried dough that practically beg for smears of butter and jam. If you’re up for a nightcap, grab a seat at the hotel’s buzzy lobby bar or walk down the road to one of Kolašin’s colorful pubs.

Venture deeper into the mountains to Vranjak for horseback rides and home-cooked mountain fare. Led by a local rancher, horseback rides follow a two-hour circuit through wild highland terrain. At the halfway point, atop a windswept peak, the views stretch so clear and panoramic you’d swear you could see all the way to Italy. After an equestrian odyssey, settle into the rustic ranch house for a spread of jet-fuel Montenegrin coffee paired with oven-fresh bread and jams.

Consider a post-prandial tipple of rakija — Montenegrin moonshine infused with wild fruits. Montenegro is one of Europe’s hidden gems of viticulture, with grape cultivation stretching back more than two millennia. While the country’s flagship wines are Vranac and Krstač — an earthy red and a crisp, aromatic white — Montenegrin vintners grow dozens of varietals, some tracing their roots to Illyrian tribes and Roman settlers. If you’ve ever dined at an Aman resort and perused the wine list, you might recognize the label of Radević Estate Winery. The Radević family has tended vines in the Montenegrin highlands for 28 generations and has deep ties to the region’s Orthodox Christian monasteries. Tours wind through trellised hills and olive groves, culminating in a tasting in a handsome subterranean barrel room.

Lake Biograd, Biogradska Gora National Park © Dvrcan | Dreamstime.com

Beyond masterful expressions of Vranac and Malvasia, head vintner Goran Radević also crafts exceptional brandy — grape spirits aged in bespoke Slavonian oak barrels. The vineyard is a haven of birds; look for playful Eurasian pygmy owls among the vines and groves.

Tourists often pass over Podgorica in favor of the coast and mountains, but the capital city is full of quirky charm. Founded by Illyrian tribes and expanded by later Roman and Ottoman settlers, Podgorica brims with architectural wonders. A stroll through the city reveals intact Roman forums and walls juxtaposed with Ottoman bazaars and mosques. Podgorica lies within striking distance of Montenegro’s most famous vineyards, and the city brims with thoughtfully curated wine bars. Chock-full of acclaimed restaurants, the capital is quickly emerging as a Balkan hot spot for gourmands. For traditional Montenegrin dishes prepared with refined finesse, book a dinner table at Tavern Lanterna. In a stone-walled salon, patrons sip treasures from an extensive wine cellar and savor Montenegrin charcuterie, cheeses and pastas.

LODGING
OBLUN ECO RESORT

Wake up in luxury tents to panoramic lake views and farm-fresh breakfasts. Only an hour from the airport in Podgorica, Oblun offers an excellent launching point for excursions to Montenegro’s coast and inland mountains.
Oblun, Podgorica,
Montenegro
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ONE&ONLY PORTONOVI
The epitome of Mediterranean dolce vita, One&Only offers one of the most luxurious re- sorts in the Balkans. The hotel’s restaurants prove as refined and opulent as its rooms.
Vojna Kasarna, Portonovi,
Herceg Novi, Montenegro
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SWISSÔTEL RESORT KOLAŠIN
Nestled in the mountains of northern Montenegro, this hotel evokes the grandeur of Swiss Alpine ski chalets and makes an ideal base camp for outdoor excursions in the Bjelasica Mountains and Biogradska Gora National Park.

Ski Centar 1600, Kolašin,
Montenegro
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DINING
KONOBA AMANET
Enjoy hearty mountain fare washed down with craft beer and shots of rakija at this charmingly rustic restaurant outside Kolašin. After working up an appetite on the hiking trails, indulge in a plate of kačamak — mashed potatoes fortified with mountain cheese.
Bijeli Potok, Kolašin,
Montenegro
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RESTAURANT DARDIN

Set on the breathtaking waterfront of Perast, this upscale restaurant is renowned for its seafood. Try the crudo platter — a briny bonanza of raw tuna, oysters and other frutti di mare.
Obala Marka Martinovića,
Perast, Montenegro
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TAVERN LANTERNA

Sip Vranac and savor Montenegrin charcuterie at Tavern Lanterna in Podgorica’s Old Town. The menu features traditional Montenegrin cuisine prepared with gourmet finesse, delicacies paired with expertly curated wines.
Kralja Nikole 36, Podgorica,
Montenegro
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INFO TO GO
Getting around Montenegro is relatively straightforward, though it helps to plan ahead. Most international travelers arrive via Podgorica Airport, and some shorter flights arrive at the smaller Tivat Airport. Taxis are readily available outside both airports, but agree on a fare in advance or insist the driver use the meter. It’s best to rent a car if you plan to explore mountain towns or remote beaches. Rental agencies operate at both airports, and the roads in Montenegro are both beautiful and well-maintained. A two-lane coastal highway links seaside towns such as Kotor, Budva and Herceg Novi. If you don’t have a set of wheels, take advantage of the inexpensive and reliable bus service between coastal cities.