It is late afternoon on the streets of Nadi, Fiji’s third-largest city, and horns are blaring. A long line of traffic waits impatiently as a barefoot boy in a Nike shirt leads a fat, brown cow by a rope through an intersection.
Taxi drivers tap their fingers against the sides of canary-yellow cabs, feigning profound irritation with both boy and cow even as smiles play at their lips. Teenagers openly grin as they dodge cars to watch the action, and stout dark-skinned women in brightly colored skirts roll their eyes good-naturedly at the hectic scene as they patrol the sidewalks, beckoning passersby to come away from it all. “Come,” they say in perfect English, “Come eat at my restaurant. Come shop in my store. You want a necklace? A dress? I have the perfect thing for you, right this way. Come with me.”
This is hardly the scene most people imagine when they picture a remote island getaway to the tropical shores of Fiji. Where are the glittering beaches? The crystal-clear waters? The perfectly manicured resorts? The white sand that feels like flour when it squishes between your bare toes?
That’s all here, too. But part of what makes Fiji so special is its unique bula spirit — a fervent, friendly energy that exudes from the diverse people who populate this tiny nation’s cities and shores. Whether you seek pampering, partying, shopping or adventure, there is something for everyone in Fiji, and the locals are more than happy to help you find it.
Admit it: You’ve dreamed at least once of jetting to this small South Pacific paradise. The sandy beaches are a vacation home to countless celebrities, the site of films from Blue Lagoon to Cast Away and even played host to a season of Survivor. There’s a reason Fiji is considered the ultimate heaven on Earth.
Legend has it that Fiji was discovered when the great chief Lutunasobasoba led his people across the oceans to this far-off land. Once known as the Cannibal Isles, early Fiji soon gained a reputation for savagery and barbaric practices. By the early 19th century, however, Fiji was home to an increasing number of shipwrecked sailors, escaped convicts from the Australian penal settlements, missionaries and traders. With the growth in the European population naturally came a growth in European influence, and Christianity soon spread, rapidly ending the cannibalism for which Fiji had become known.
In 1874, Great Britain took control of Fiji. Soon after, Indian immigrants began arriving en masse as indentured servants brought by British settlers to work on sugar plantations. Today, ethnic Indians make up nearly 40 percent of the Fijian population, and their presence is strongly felt. Walking down the sidewalks of Lautoka, just outside of Nadi, visitors passing by rows of sari shops and vendors frying samosas might have to blink a few times to remind themselves they are in the South Pacific, not South Asia.
Fiji entered the new millennium with a booming sugar industry and half a million tourists per year coming from across the globe to enjoy its many treasures. Still, the fledgling nation, which only gained independence from Great Britain in 1970, continues to struggle with its own autonomy. Military coups have not been uncommon in recent decades, but they tend to erupt in major cities, far from the peaceful beaches most heavily frequented by tourists.
Despite its intricate and sometimes turbulent history, visitors from all walks of life show no signs of wiping Fiji from their dream travel itineraries. Whether it’s starry-eyed couples imagining the perfect honeymoon, families pining for a vacation to a tropical resort or frenzied business executives looking to get away from it all, Fiji is the ultimate backdrop to their fantasies.
Get Pampered
Picture this: You’re on a beach, lying facedown on a massage table, draped in a soft, silky sheet. Your masseuse’s strong hands knead into your shoulders — and somehow his trained fingers seem to know exactly which muscles have been aching the most. The sun is shining and a warm breeze laps at your skin. Palm trees sway and swish in the distance, and you feel your troubles floating away as you take a slow, deep breath of salty ocean air.
Fiji is world renowned for its relaxing, even artful, spa treatments in some of the world’s most tranquil settings. As you enter the Pure Fiji Spa in Suva, for example, you are invited to step over a stream of running water, symbolically leaving your worries behind as you arrive on Fiji’s shore.
Once inside, you give yourself over to true bliss as you soak your feet in a coconut milk bath or treat your body to a detoxifying dilo butter treatment all wrapped up in freshly cut banana leaves.
At the Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Resort on the island of Vanua Levu, you can sample a range of unique Fijian massage treatments such as the four-handed Duavata massage, which features two synchronized massage therapists at once, or the traditional Bobo healing massage, which is designed to release stress through a combination of tropical oils and percussive strokes. At the end of this luxurious session, the therapist bids your anxieties to lako tani, go away.
Get Wet
No trip to Fiji is complete until you’ve dipped your toes tentatively into the clear aquamarine waters to test the temperature,
then sighed in pleasure as you discover it’s just warm enough to be inviting but just cool enough to be refreshing — the perfect combination.
Year-round warm temperatures make Fiji a prime destination for swimming, diving, boating and water sports. You may be content just to laze peacefully in a shallow lagoon, but visitors wishing to probe the deeper depths of the ocean have ample opportunities to do so.
Strap on a snorkel mask or — better yet — a dive tank, and a whole new world opens before your very eyes. Underwater visibility in the water surrounding Fiji soars past 90 feet, giving aqua-explorers a panoramic glimpse at the dazzling marine life and intricate geometric patterns that make Fiji the Soft Coral Capital of the World. Uncrowded shorelines and stellar surf breaks make Fiji a world-class surfing destination, too.
Want to really ramp up your water adventure? Learn to sail, or give waterskiing or whitewater rafting a try. For less adrenaline but equal fun, feel like tropical royalty as you glide down the river in a bilibili bamboo raft — a long, flat boat piloted by a standing rower, much like a gondola in Venice.
Soak Up the Sun
What could be better than sitting on a cushioned chaise longue by the beach with a mai tai in one hand and coconut-oil tanning lotion in the other? A friendly Fijian man strumming a guitar in the distance and a woman humming as she picks huge, fragrant orchids couldn’t hurt.
But before your waiter can ask you how you like your beachside cocktail, you first have to ask yourself how you like your beach: Are you looking for pure white sand and crystal waters? Head to one of the Mamanucas, Fiji’s most popular island group. Prefer fluffy golden sand on a family-friendly shore where the kids can build sandcastles? Stick to one of the all-inclusive resorts on the ever-popular Denarau Island, located on the mainland of Viti Levu. Are volcanic black sand and dramatic, sweeping panoramas your thing? Try one of the Yasawas, known for their ruggedly breathtaking landscapes.
Whatever your beach pleasure, one of Fiji’s more than 300 islands is sure to meet your needs — it just takes a little bit of research to find your perfect match.
Experience the Local Culture
Don’t leave Fiji without participating in a kava ceremony, a traditional welcoming ritual where visitors and hosts bond over a tingly, mildly narcotic herbal drink made from the pulverized root of Piper methysticum. Traditionally served in wooden bowls while you sit cross-legged on the floor of a bure, or thatched-roof hut, it’s best to get the watery mixture down in one gulp — but when you’re finished, give a spirited shout of “Bula!” — cheers — to assure your host you enjoyed this wildly popular Fijian experience. If kava isn’t your thing, you can still taste the local ambrosia by swigging down Fiji Bitter, a locally brewed beer, at the end of a traditional feast of coconut, seafood, rice, cassava, breadfruit and sweet potatoes.
To get a real feel for modern Fijian life, stash your beach towel in your hotel room for the day and board a bus for the nearest city. Overwhelm your senses with the spices and colors on display at the many open-air markets which take place year-round, and be sure to indulge a few of the zealous vendors who will employ every trick imaginable to lure you into their stores. To glimpse Fijian life the way it was hundreds of years ago, journey into the highlands of Viti Levu and pay a visit to Navala Village, one of the most pristinely authentic bure hut communities.
Wherever you roam in Fiji, good times are sure to follow — just make sure to venture off of your chaise longue at least once if you want to truly soak up the essence of this versatile and vibrant archipelago.
Info to Go
Nadi International Airport (NAN) handles close to 96 percent of all international tourists coming to Fiji. The trip to Nadi Town from the airport is about five miles and should take 10–15 minutes by taxi. Word of advice: Be sure the driver uses the meter. Travel between Fiji’s islands is best achieved by small charter flights or sea catamarans, which can be arranged by your hotel. Visit www.fijitourism.com.
Diversions
Home to Christians, Hindus and Muslims as well as Polynesians, Melanesians, Indo-Fijians, Asians and Europeans, Fiji boasts a multifaceted tapestry of religions, races and ethnicities. As a result of this unique cultural make-up, visits to Fiji at any time of year are likely to coincide with some local group’s annual festival or holiday.
New Year’s processions begin Jan. 1 but can last anywhere from a week to a month. The Hindu Festival of Colors, Holi, falls in February or March, based on the Hindu calendar. One of the least religious of the Hindu holidays, Holi is essentially a color-war — a day where members of all castes spray colored powders and paints at each other in the streets. Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Lights, is celebrated in October or November of each year by lighting candles and small oil lamps.
Oct. 10 heralds Fiji Day, a major holiday that commemorates Fiji’s independence. The week leading up to Fiji Day is aptly titled Fiji Week and features numerous cultural mini-festivals celebrating the diverse heritages of the Fijian population.
In the summer months, late May brings Ratu Sukuna Day for all Fijians, which commemorates Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna, a former politician and chief who is largely considered the father of modern Fiji. On June 15, Fiji joins its former brothers and sisters of the Commonwealth in celebrating Queen Elizabeth II’s birthday.
Muslim holidays in Fiji follow the lunar calendar and therefore fall on different dates every year. Fijian Muslims celebrate Eid-al-Adha, Eid-al-Fitr, Ramadan and other holy days by praying at grand communal mosques and visiting the homes of friends and family. The Prophet Muhammad’s birthday is
a public holiday in Fiji.
Lodging
Radisson Resort
Fiji Denarau Island Convenient, luxurious ocean-side location just minutes from the Nadi airport. A perfect starting point for island-hopping excursions. Resort Drive, Denarau Island, tel 679 675 6677, $$$$
Turtle Island Resort
An exclusive romantic hideout that hosts only 14 couples at any given time. Breathtaking vistas, secret coves and a highly personalized experience. Turtle Island, tel 360 256 4347, $$$$
Vatulele Island Resort
An elegant paradise with stunning scenery and world-class diving. All-inclusive, so you can focus on relaxing, not reaching for your wallet. Vatulele Island, tel 679 672 0300, $$$$
Dining
Banyan Restaurant
A sophisticated European and Pacific Rim fusion menu changes daily to reflect the freshest local ingredients. Royal Davui, Beqa Island, tel 679 336 1624, $$$
Daikoku
Succulent Japanese cuisine featuring fresh-caught fish. Try the famous creamy teppanyaki shrimp. FNPF Place, Victoria Parade, Suva, tel 679 330 8968 $$$
Saffron Tandoori
See if you can spot Bollywood stars among the clientele of this popular Indo-Fijian hot spot. Queens Road, Nadi Town, tel 679 670 1233, $$
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