An itinerary chock-full of sightseeing, some of it with a heavily emotional historical bent, may not immediately spring to mind when one thinks of a leisure trip. However, when one opts to travel via a river cruise, as I did, with all the logistics handled, from flights to and from to transfers between every destination, it gives a traveler the chance to kick back and still get in plenty of sightseeing and relaxation.

My husband and I set sail on France’s Seine River aboard Viking Fjorgyn, a longship specifically designed to ply these waters. Our eight-day itinerary, Paris & the Heart of Normandy, visited six destinations and boasted six guided tours, traveling from Paris through Normandy. With flights, airport transfers, excursions, transport between the destinations, all meals and more coordinated for us, all we needed to focus on was immersing ourselves in our incredible surroundings and making sure we got back to the ship on time.

PARIS
Upon arrival and groggy from the flight, we were thrilled our boat’s docking position afforded us stellar views of the Eiffel Tower, allowing us to take in our first sight without going too far. Luckily, our cabin was ready quickly — and early — so we took a few hours to settle in and recharge before a late lunch and a provided walking tour of the neighborhood surrounding the docking location. The first evening on board acquainted us with many of our shipmates and the flow of the week ahead and gave us a chance to walk the approximately one mile to take in Lady Eiffel from a closer angle.

Day Two was spent exploring more of the City of Lights, but both of us agree we need to plan a return visit to the city with a few days to really enjoy the many exceptional museums and cultural sites. But the included Panoramic Paris excursion provided us with the city’s highlights, helping us build our bucket list for a return visit. In the afternoon we booked the Flavors of Paris experience, taking us into the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood to sample macarons, chocolate, olive oils, breads, cheese and all the Parisian delights.

LA ROCHE-GUYON AND VERNON
We sailed into our first picturesque French village, La Roche-Guyon, taking a morning stroll through the narrow streets and wood-paneled facades. Each small village we visited conjured all the fantasies I’d had of quaint French towns, lined with cafés and bakeries and half-timbered houses. For a panorama of the area, we climbed the hundreds of steps to the top of the Castle of La Roche-Guyon, once the headquarters and strategic stronghold of German officer Erwin Rommel. I stopped into my first French village bakery here, needing to sample the fresh-made croissants.

Docking in Vernon, we’d only take in views of the city from the ship. Due to the November timing of our cruise, Giverny, home of Claude Monet, was closed for the season, so our destination for the afternoon was the equally fascinating village of Auvers- sur-Oise, final resting place of Vincent Van Gogh. While he lived there only from May to July 1890, he produced a tremendous amount of work before his suicide. We saw the room where he lived his last days, his and his brother’s graves, and several locations that inspired some of his most famous works.

ROUEN
We remained docked in Rouen for two days; despite rain, we spent one afternoon touring the city. The cathedral literally takes your breath away, the streets feel pulled from a fairy tale, and the legend of Joan of Arc still lives.

© WESSEL CIRKEL | DREAMSTIME

The following day, from Rouen, we boarded motor coaches to the city of Caen and the beaches of Normandy. The heaviness of this day was handled beautifully and is one I will never forget. Normandy is a must-visit for any American, and Viking executed the moments better than I could have imagined. In Caen, Caen Memorial Museum should be included on any Normandy itinerary. At the stunningly beautiful Normandy American Cemetery, a rainbow greeted us over the perfectly aligned graves marked with white crosses and Stars of David. A special ceremony for longship guests included the playing of “The Star Spangled Banner” as we looked over the gravesites before we turned toward The Spirit of the American Youth Rising From the Waves statue for a rendition of “Taps.” A sobering moment indeed, without a dry eye to be seen, especially as we considered most of those graves honored fallen soldiers 18–22 years of age. The brothers who inspired Saving Private Ryan are also buried here. Everyone then honored all those on the cruise who had served in the U.S. military in any conflict with applause and recognition. The last stop of the day was to walk the sands of Omaha Beach.

LES ANDELYS
Rainbows started to become a theme as another one greeted us as we walked the hill to Château-Gaillard, the former castle of Richard the Lionheart, in the commune of Les Andelys. By this point of the sailing, friendships had formed among passengers, and several of us headed to the local pub for a couple rounds of Richard’s namesake beer. Of course, I sought out the local bakery once again to sample the croissants. The camaraderie continued that evening with a game in the ship’s common area and dancing and live music.

PHOTO: © ANNA PAKUTINA | DREAMSTIME

LE PECQ
Docking in Le Pecq, a suburb of Paris, our last jam-packed day included a morning visit to Château de Malmaison, the home of Napoléon Bonaparte and his first wife, Josephine, who, as I learned, was quite the strong female inspiration.

In the afternoon we opted to add on a visit to the Palace of Versailles, opulent and extravagant but quite busy, even in the off-season. Prepare for crowds and bring your patience. Despite nothing in bloom, we still found ourselves getting a bit lost in the extensive gardens.

LODGING

Clos Saint-Martin
In Caen check out the upscale bed and breakfast of Clos Saint-Martin, housed in an old mansion from the 16th to the 18th centuries and featuring a courtyard and terrace.
18 Bis Pl. Saint-Martin, 14000 Caen
$$$$

Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, Autograph Collection
Conveniently located to all of Rouen’s attractions, Hotel de Bourgtheroulde resides in a 15th-century historic property and boasts a spa, fine-dining restaurant and more.
15 Pl. de la Pucelle, 76000 Rouen
$$$$

Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain
Opened in April 2022, this boutique luxury hotel puts travelers in the heart of the Saint-Germain neighborhood, perfect for foodies.
5 Rue du Pré aux Clercs, 75007 Paris
$$$$

DINING

Boeuf & Cow
In the heart of Caen, with a view of St. Pierre Church, enjoy 100 percent homemade dishes embodying the specialties of Normandy with ingredients from the region.
6 Blvd. des Alliés, 14000 Caen
$$$

La Couronne
La Couronne holds a number of accolades, among them France’s oldest restaurant — since 1345 — and as the spot where Julia Child enjoyed her first meal in France.
31 Pl. du Vieux Marché, 76000 Rouen
$$$

Prunier
Dating back to 1872, dine at the restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe now helmed by three-Michelin-starred Chef Yannick Alleno.
16 Av. Victor Hugo, 75116 Paris
$$$$$

INFO TO GO
Paris boasts two international airports: Orly Airport, about 11 miles outside of city center with mostly intra-European flights, and Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, around 19 miles northeast. U.S. citizens need a valid passport to enter for stays up to 90 days. If you’re traveling with a river cruise company, other logistics will likely be arranged for you; the Paris metro divides the city and its suburbs into five travel zones.