An 11-year-old boy exclaims, “Wow! Cool!” His response is not to a video game or the latest viral meme on social media. This is his reaction to a view, to a city and to an assemblage of 1950s architecture.
Fifty-five years after Brazil unveiled its new capital on a site which, just four and a half years earlier, had been highland scrub, this sleek, spacious city remains strikingly futuristic (albeit in a retro, Jetsons kind of way). Brasília retains the capacity to capture the imagination and to prompt visitors young and old to gaze in amazement and exclaim, “Wow! Cool!”
From 246 feet up, we gaze the length of Eixo Monumental, the long, broad, grass park that forms the main downtown axis. The ministerial buildings, sternly regimented on each side, are flanked by the glossy skyscrapers of the commercial districts.
At face value, this is a serious, government city — a place for high-level meetings and conventions and a place to do business and lobby for political influence. Yes, it’s all that. But as we discover on our after-business stay, it’s also one of the most family-friendly cities in Brazil.
We perch on the observation deck of the Torre de TV, accessed for free by elevator. From here we gain a sense of the city’s unique layout. The technological optimism of the jet age inspired Brasília with a layout that deliberately mimics an airplane.
The Eixo Monumental represents the fuselage. Stretching away from us on both sides we see the curved, swept-back wings, inlaid with avenues and highways. Behind us, the Convention Center serves as the tailplane. Two miles in front of us, shimmering in the heat-hazed distance, the Praça dos Três Poderes (Plaza of Three Powers) represents the cockpit, with the Congresso Nacional (Parliament), the Supremo Tribunal Federal (Supreme Federal Court) and the Palácio do Planalto (the Presidential Office).
We return to ground level, stock up on drinks and snacks at the food court at the base of the tower, then set off to walk the length of the axis. The first stop lies within sight to our right: the Complexo Cultural da República (Cultural Complex of the Republic), one of the last masterpieces (opened in 2006) of the man responsible for many of Brasília’s incredible buildings, the architect Oscar Niemeyer.
Of the two buildings in the cultural complex, the Museu Nacional exhibits the most breathtaking exterior, painted dazzling white with a shape that resembles a half-sunken planet Saturn; an external ramp echoes the planet’s famous rings. Unfortunately, the contents of the museum (mainly exhibitions of contemporary art) don’t live up to the venue.
Immediately beyond the museum sits one of Niemeyer’s most iconic buildings — indeed, one of the most iconic buildings of the 20th century — the Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida, or the Cathedral of Brasília.
We approach the cathedral between imposing statues of the four evangelists. Inspired by the crown of thorns, the building features 16 white concrete columns sweeping up and then curving out at the top.
Initially we don’t see the entrance, but then we abruptly find ourselves descending a ramp directly into the circular nave. A luminous canopy of stained glass drapes above us in swirling patterns of blue and turquoise and light brown. We are immersed in colorful light. The inevitable refrain: “Wow! Cool!”
Back outside, we walk the remainder of the axis to the Congresso Nacional, another spectacular Niemeyer ensemble. When it first opened, before the advent of health and safety regulations, the public could walk up a ramp directly onto the building’s roof. However, with no safety barriers around the edge, it is now deemed too dangerous, and access is restricted. There are guided tours of the interior, and one can pre-book admission to the public gallery for parliamentary sessions.
Our walk culminates at the vast plaza behind the parliament building. Again the works of Oscar Niemeyer surround us — the Supreme Federal Court and the Presidential Office. All of his buildings reveal his predilection for curves. (He said he was inspired by Brazil’s shapely women.) A 330-foot pylon towers above it all bearing the national flag, languidly flapping in the midday breeze.
This entire city serves as a monument to Brazilian national pride. Brasília, conceived as a utopia, until recently was insulated from many of the problems, especially rampant crime, blighting other Brazilian cities.
Sadly, that is no longer the case. Pickpocketing is rife in the popular tourist areas, and visitors should use ATMs with extreme caution; skimming and mugging are common. Ideally, only use ATMs inside banks during business hours.
Be especially alert when traveling with your family. Distractions such as child tantrums or stopping to read a map can provide opportunities for pickpockets. Throughout our stay, we try to remain vigilant without being paranoid.
But we don’t allow security concerns to prevent us from mingling with ordinary Brazilians. In the afternoon, we head to the Parque Nacional de Brasília, close to downtown, a 69,000-acre remnant of the woodland and tropical savannah that cloaked the high plateau before the city was built.
From the forest trails we spot howler monkeys bouncing through the canopy. After working up a sweat on our short hike, we cool off in one of the park’s natural mineral pools, immensely popular with local families. Though be warned: Brazilian women often favor barely-there bikinis that Oscar Niemeyer would certainly have approved but can render a usually talkative 11-year-old boy goggle-eyed and dumbstruck.
Besides the Parque Nacional, Brasília’s other great natural attraction is not actually natural. Lake Paranoá, forming a spidery crescent around the eastern side of the city, results from a dam created during the city’s construction. As well as helping supply the city with water, it provides a range of leisure activities, including kayaking and windsurfing.
We enjoy the lake more sedately, boarding a catamaran in late afternoon for a sundowner cruise. As so often in this beautifully designed city, there is no sense of being in the middle of a major metropolis. Tranquility reigns.
The sun declines and the sky ignites with the vibrant colors of a tropical sunset. We watch spellbound, inevitably resorting to the two words that have defined our visit to Brasília: “Wow! Cool!”
Brasília Info to Go
A small number of international flights arrive at Brasília–Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek International Airport, located seven miles south of downtown. Most international visitors arrive on domestic flights via São Paulo-Guarulhos International Airport, Brazil’s main international hub.
Where to Stay in Brasília
Brasília Palace Hotel The Oscar Niemeyer-designed hotel offers 156 rooms on the shore of Lake Paranoá, part of a three-hotel complex neighboring the Brazilian president’s official residence. SHTN – Trecho 01, Lote 01 $$$$
Cullinan Hplus Premium Enjoy convenience and personalized service in these compact, apartment-style rooms in a good downtown location within walking distance of many main attractions. SHN Quadra 04, Bloco E $$$
Royal Tulip Brasília Alvorada The second of the three hotels in the lakeside complex (the third is the Golden Tulip) boasts a horseshoe design, facing the lake. A courtesy shuttle bus connects to downtown (10 minutes) and the airport (15 minutes). SHTN – Trecho 01, Conjunto 1B, Bloco C $$$$
Restaurants in Brasília
Brazilian American Burgers This friendly, family-run establishment not far from downtown serves prime Brazilian beef American-style and free ice cream for dessert. CLSW 301, Bloco C, Loja 98, ED. Dakota Shopping $$
Churrascaria Pampa You’ll want to sample at least one churrascaria (barbecue steakhouse) while in Brazil, and this huge 800-seat eatery, between the airport and downtown, is one of the most popular. Industry Workshops in South Carrefour beside ParkShopping $$
Restaurante Aquavit A little out of the way but worth the effort. Under the direction of Danish chef Lau Cederholm, the menu fuses traditional and contemporary, Brazilian and international, in an attractive lakeside setting. SML – Trecho 12, Conjunto 01, Casa 5 $$$$
Read This Next
Scottsdale Combines Tourism and Big Business
2015
Jan 1, 2016All Reads on This Topic
Read Them All
Introducing
FX Excursions
FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.
#globility
Insta FeedDaily
Dec 13, 2024The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota Launches Holiday Programming
The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota invites travelers to experience the magic of the holiday season with a full lineup of festive programming.
Sponsored Content
Pick Your Paradise: Experience Bali at 3 Incredible Hotels
Bali is a name synonymous with island bliss. But there is more than just one side to this incredible place. Get a sense for the variety of experiences Bali offers by learning about three hotels participating in Marriott Bonvoy® with distinctive opportunities for adventure and relaxation. With the Marriott Bonvoy Boundless® Card, earn points for free nights at each of these properties.
Daily
Dec 13, 2024Rediscover Bambu Indah: Transformative Luxury and Green Beauty in Ubud’s Agrarian Riverside
Bambu Indah is a one-of-a-kind boutique hotel high on the Sayan Ridge, 15 minutes from the town of Ubud on the island of Bali in Indonesia. Surrounded by rice paddies, nestled among jungle trees and situated along the great Ayung River, Bambu Indah is an authentic nature sanctuary.
Daily
Dec 13, 2024Taste Your Way Through Japan with These Unique Experiences
Ever wanted to embark on an udon-tasting journey around one of Japan’s prefectures? How about a soy-sauce tasting on an island? Up your trip to Japan with these unique, culinary-inspired experiences, sure to leave you with a full belly and some good stories.
Sponsored Content
Madrid: The Charm of an Authentic City
They say Madrid is in vogue for many reasons: its lifestyle, its heritage, its cuisine and all of its new attractions. And it’s true, because Madrid is on the radar of travelers looking for a cutting-edge destination that still holds onto its essence. Join us as we explore its charms.
Daily
Dec 12, 2024Indulge in Holiday Decadence at London’s St. James’s Hotel & Club, an Althoff Collection Hotel
The elegant, 5-star St. James’s Hotel & Club, an Althoff Collection Hotel, rolls out the Yule Tide welcome log this season with holiday treats that include special menus, caroling, a Festive Afternoon Tea, and views from its roof gardens and private suite terraces of New Year’s Eve fireworks bursting over the city. Decorated Christmas trees and baskets of clementines adorn guestrooms and suites, and this year’s Nutcracker theme will be evident in tree ornaments, banister decorations and red-and-green nutcracker figurines greeting guests as they arrive at the hotel.
6 Raffles Hotels & Resorts for Holiday Experiences
Daily
Dec 12, 2024Orient Express Announces First-Ever Hotel
Daily
Dec 12, 2024Canne Bianche Lifestyle & Hotel Review
eFlyer Reviews
Dec 11, 2024eFlyer News
Dec 11, 2024Air France & KLM Royal Dutch Airlines Partner with Kolet for Mobile Connectivity
Air France and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines announced a new partnership with Kolet, a French eSIM technology specialist, to offer reliable mobile connectivity in more than 190 countries.
Sponsored Content
United Airlines First to Purchase Sustainable Aviation Fuel for ORD
Chicago O’Hare International Airport will soon receive sustainable aviation fuel, all thanks to United Airlines, which became the first airline to purchase SAF for use at the airport, one of the largest in the United States. Neste, a producer of SAF, will provide up to 1 million gallons of its Neste MY Sustainable Aviation Fuel. The first supply arrived in August.
eFlyer News
Dec 11, 2024Viking Names and Delivers Newest Ship in Italy
It’s been a month to remember for Viking, with the luxury cruise line announcing the name and delivery of its newest ocean ship, Viking Vela. The new boat joins Viking’s growing fleet of award-winning ocean ships and will spend her inaugural season sailing in the Mediterranean and Northern Europe.
ShareThis