This is the third installment of my blogs about my recent solo trip to Paris.

My wonderful fiancé planned a surprise for me: a guided walking food tour of an area he knew I’d fall in love with: Montmartre. It was the perfect way to yet again immerse myself with locals. I was enchanted by this bohemian neighborhood and the intricate beauty of it all. The cobblestone streets, artistic legacy, the buzz and, of course, the food.

I met my guide across the street from the iconic Moulin Rouge, where I joined a group of 10 fellow travelers — all from the United States. Our guide greeted us warmly and explained that, technically, we weren’t in Montmartre just yet. But as soon as we crossed the street, he excitedly told us, “Welcome to Montmartre!”

Historically, Montmartre was a separate village on a hill outside the city limits of Paris. It wasn’t incorporated into the city until 1860 during Baron Haussmann’s reorganization of Paris. Until this day, the area has maintained its close-knit character, almost village-like, steeped in history, art and tradition.

White Chocolate Merveilleux

Our first stop was the elegant Aux Merveilleux de Fred, famous for its airy, cloud-like meringue confections. I tried Le Merveilleux, a dessert inspired by Marie Antoinette and refined during the Directory Regime I post-revolutionary France. Layers of whipped cream and crushed meringue come together in a light, decadent swirl — utterly regal and, surprisingly, rooted in a period of political chaos and indulgence.

Next, we headed into A La Mére de Famille, the oldest chocolatier in Paris, dating back to 1761. This place is pure magic — think vintage counters, tiled floors and shelves lined with pralines, pâtes de fruits and candied orange peels. I sampled a dark chocolate square with pistachio and praline that melted into rich goodness. I couldn’t resist picking up a few goodies for friends and family back home.

Montmartre’s A La Mére de Famille

The third stop was Alexine Boulangerie. We tried the salmon and spinach quiche and, full disclosure: I usually avoid salmon and eggs in any form. However, this dish surprised me — it was savory, buttery and well-balanced. The crust was flaky perfection!

Salmon and Spinach Quiche from Boulangerie Alexine

Te Quiero (I love you) at Le Mur des Je T’aime

After that, we took time to soak in Montmartre’s quirky character, wandering the narrow streets, admiring the colorful murals, little mosaic tiles and more. This led us to Place des Abbesses, a charming square with a vintage carousel and the beautiful Mur des Je T’aime (I Love You Wall). I made sure to find the Spanish version of “I love you” on the 430-square-foot wall to send to my family. A small moment, but it felt really special.

Next up: the holy grail of French indulgence — cheese and wine. Our group had an exclusive tasting at Titi Graille, which closed its doors just for us. We sampled a variety of cheeses, from creamy brie to pungent blue, paired perfectly with curated wines. I learned about French wine regions, tasting notes and how to properly sniff and swirl like a local.

Wine Tasting at Titi Graille

Re-energized, we set out to the next stop, passing historic apartment buildings such as Le Bateau Lavoir — a space once a piano factory that then served as home to about 20 artists’ studios in the late 1890s. We also stopped at The Moulin de la Galette Restaurant, where one of the two remaining windmills in Montmartre is located. We walked past the Instagram-able La Maison Rose on rue de l’Abreuvoir, a place frequently visited by Picasso, Gertrude Stein and others.

As we climbed higher, we could feel the energy intensify. The closer we got to Sacré-Coeur, the livelier the streets became, with artists sketching portraits and musicians filling the air with jazz.

Just before the basilica, we made a sweet detour to Biscuiterie de Montmartre, where we learned the difference between macarons (a delicate almond meringue cookie with ganache) and macaroons (chewy coconut treats). I prefer the latter but will never decline a good macaron. Interestingly enough, we tried the madeleines, and I opted for a bright lemon one.

Lemon Madeleine from Biscuiterie de Montmartre

Continuing the sweets trend, we headed to our final food stop at Carette, the stylish patisserie where I’d actually been the night before at the Trocadéro location. This time I tried a black currant and violet macaron — fragrant, floral and almost too pretty to eat. The guide shared that Carette is known for having one of the best hot cocoas.

Black Currant and Violet Macaron from Carette

We wrapped up the tour at stunning Sacré-Coeur Basilica just in time for sunset. I sat on the steps, taking in the sweeping view of Paris and resting my feet after all the uphill walking. I stayed there as night fell, savoring every last moment and taking a billion pictures.

Selfie from the Sacré-Coeur Basilica

View from the top of the stairs at Sacré-Coeur Basilica

Famous Moulin Rouge Windmill at Night

It started getting cold, but I wasn’t ready to be indoors just yet. I walked back to our meeting point just so I could see the Moulin Rouge windmill lit up at night. Smelling of alcohol and cigarettes, the area now felt like stepping into a scene from a noir film. I couldn’t help but remember what our guide had said — Moulin Rouge, specifically, was once exclusive to gangsters and mobsters.

That concluded my tour of this bohemian and diverse neighborhood. I ordered an Uber and made my way back to the hotel to freshen up for a late dinner at Thiou — a perfect end to a perfect day. You can read my full review of Thiou here.

— Yasser Ogando, executive director, media