Business and leisure visitors to my old hometown of Portland, Oregon, generally spend most of their time in the downtown core, located on the west side of the Willamette River in the southwest quadrant of the city. They may venture into Northwest Portland to the Pearl District for its eclectic shopping, dining and clubs and brewpubs; or they may cross one of several bridges to reach the Convention Center or perhaps the Rose Garden or Memorial Coliseum for a game or concert, just on the other side of the river. Public transportation or even just a short stroll make these areas readily accessible for visitors, but one of the pleasures of Portland is that there are numerous neighborhoods throughout town which offer more of what this city has become known for: great dining and unique galleries and shops.

I’ve written recently about Ciao Vito, for instance, located in the Alberta Arts District, close by to North Mississippi Avenue — both great neighborhoods which offer commercial and retail businesses surrounded by well-kept and restored residences ranging from the Victorian era through the 1950s. This past weekend we discovered another such corridor along Clinton Street in Southeast Portland. We arrived at St. Jack for a late lunch on a warm and sunny early spring afternoon and were greeted by its bright yellow door right at the corner of Clinton and 21st. Located in what was a 19th-century home, the Lyons bouchon-inspired establishment is both patisserie and restaurant, open seven days a week. One can order a cup of coffee and a croissant at 8 a.m., select something from the deli case for a quick lunch, or stop in for Happy Hour and choose from an extensive wine list offering French and Northwest vintages or perhaps a Belgian ale or cocktail accompanied by a platter of house charcuterie. One can end the day indulging in a late dinner inspired by the “humble excellence of rustic French cuisine.”

Our group opted for a simple lunch, with some of us ordering a bowl of creamy, citrus-tangy asparagus soup accompanied by the housemade crispy baguette. A few others ordered the decadent and delicious Croque Monsieur, a warm ham and gruyère brioche sandwich with bechamel. We enjoyed a bit of a floor show while we ate: Pastry chef Alissa Rozos frosted a multilayered cake at the nearby zinc-topped counter, and later Chef/owner Aaron Barnett cleaned and chopped calamari for the evening’s menu (to be used in both a salad and a fisherman’s stew). Menus change seasonally and may vary day to day, depending on the availability of local ingredients, but I know I must return to St. Jack — soon — to sample more of the fabulous food in such a warm and relaxed environment. Trouble is, there are so many great little places in funky little neighborhoods like this all over Portland, and just so much time to visit them!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor