As a native Angelino I frequently find myself defending my hometown. While it’s true that the city is sprawling and the freeway system can be daunting, there is an energetic, good-natured feeling about this sun-kissed city. Where else can you spend the morning swimming in the Pacific Ocean, the afternoon checking out bubbling tar pits that trapped prehistoric mammals, and the evening salsa-dancing under the stars?

Whether you are staying downtown, at the beach or in between, there will be plenty of interesting things for you and your traveling companions to see and do in the vicinity. Museums run the gamut from fine art to cars, entertainment from opera to mariachis, attractions from famous footprints in cement to tar pits. And thanks to the city’s enviable weather, the active set can hit the trails, the bike paths and the beach almost all year long. In fact, warm weather and casual atmosphere make Los Angeles an ideal place to be outdoors, whether you’re dining al fresco or inline-skating by the sea.

With four entertainment venues, including the striking Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Music Center (135 Grand Ave., tel 213 972 7211) is Los Angeles’ primary performing arts center. Occupying a full city block in the center of downtown, its various theaters’ productions include music, drama and dance.

To see where Los Angeles began, head for Olvera Street. Reminiscent of a Mexican marketplace, this pedestrian street is filled with stalls and shops selling everything from piñatas to huaraches, mariachi music flows out of Mexican restaurants with outdoor patios, and the smell of freshly made tortillas permeates the air.

On Hollywood Boulevard, stargazers can check out hand and foot prints of the early titans of the silver screen at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (6801 Hollywood Blvd., tel 323 464 8111); see modern day entertainers’ stars in the sidewalk on the Hollywood Walk of Fame; eat at Musso & Frank Grill (6667 Hollywood Blvd., tel 323 467 7788), Los Angeles’ oldest restaurant; or hang out at Hollywood & Highland Center, the boulevard’s newest shopping and entertainment center.

If you have small kids in tow, head for the La Brea Tar Pits & Page Museum (5801 Wilshire Blvd., tel 323 934 7243). In Hancock Park on Wilshire Boulevard, bubbling pools of pitch-black tar seem to be sucking in half-submerged, life-sized, concrete statues of long-extinct mammals. The adjoining museum has a “fish bowl” lab where visitors can watch scientists at work on bones found in the latest tar pits digs.

Within walking distance of the tar pits there are two museums that provide an alternative for those not so thrilled with tar pits and sabertoothed-cat bones. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, or LACMA (5905 Wilshire Blvd., tel 323 857 6000), has a large permanent collection and numerous galleries that house traveling exhibits. The patio of the museum’s Plaza Cafe overlooks the park and is a nice place for a light lunch.

Car buffs will be in hog heaven across the street from LACMA at the Petersen Automotive Museum (6060 Wilshire Blvd., tel 323 930 CARS). A testimony to California’s love affair with the car, its dioramas chronicle the history of the automobile, while galleries display rotating exhibits of race cars, classic cars, hot rods, custom cars and motorcycles. Famous movie and celebrity cars include the 1966 and 1989 Batmobiles, Elvis Presley’s 1971 Pantera, and the 1940 Buick Phaeton originally used by Shirley Temple.

Hovering over the 405 Freeway in the Santa Monica Mountains, the architecturally striking Getty Center (1200 Getty Center Drive, tel 310 440 7300) houses one of the world’s richest art collections. Exhibits include pre-20th-century European paintings, drawings, illuminated manuscripts, sculpture and decorative arts, and 19th- and 20th-century American and European photographs. In addition to great art, there are lovely gardens and stunning views.

Santa Monica, Los Angeles County’s largest beach town, calls to the hip and active. On the pier that juts out over the Pacific Ocean, visitors can ride on a Ferris wheel, smash bumper cars, climb onto a hand-painted horse on the vintage merry-go-round, or sip margaritas with an ocean view. Skates and bicycles can be rented beside the bike path that runs along the ocean to the Venice Beach Pier. The Third Street Promenade (Third Street between Wilshire Boulevard and Broadway) is a pedestrian-only street that teems with activity. Besides a slew of restaurants, shops and movie theaters, there are street performers of all description, from Chinese plate-jugglers to rappers. On balmy evenings dancing couples join salsa- or swing-dancing groups that fill the street.

LODGING

BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL

It’s hard to think of the heyday of Hollywood without thinking of the Beverly Hills Hotel. The famous pink landmark, set on 12 acres of prime property, has been the preferred hotel for the rich and famous for over 80 years. Countless famous folks, from royalty to the titans of the movie industry, have stayed and played on the property. Howard Hughes lived in one of the bungalows; Raquel Welch was “discovered” by the pool; and everyone who was anyone had cocktails at the Polo Lounge. After a $100 million renovation in 1995, the hotel is better than ever. 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, tel 310 276 2251, http://www.thebeverlyhillshotel.com $$$$

SHUTTERS ON THE BEACH
Just steps from the sand with sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean, this is a posh beachfront hotel with a light and airy ambiance. Painted pale gray, with white wooden balconies perfect for sunset viewing, the hotel has a white-wicker, Cape Cod feeling about it. Shutters offers visitors a combination of California casual and high-end chic. There’s a spa, fitness center and pool, and for walkers, bicyclists and skaters there’s a miles-long promenade that passes in front of the hotel. 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, tel 310 458 0030, http://www.shuttersonthebeach.com $$$$

MILLENNIUM BILTMORE HOTEL LOS ANGELES

A grande dame of a hotel, the Biltmore opened in 1929, and its public rooms are living testimony to the days when marble, gilt and towering ceilings were the norm. The historic guestrooms might be a bit small by today’s standards; still, its convenient downtown location and attention to detail, not to mention reasonable rates, make it a favorite with business travelers. Onsite amenities include a health club and an indoor Roman-style pool. 506 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, tel 213 624 1011, http://www.millenniumhotels.com $$-$$$$

DINING

THE LOBSTER

For a romantic meal with an ocean view, head for this trendy eatery overlooking the Santa Monica pier. In keeping with its name, the emphasis is on fresh seafood, including its fire-engine-red crustacean namesake. Celebrity spottings are frequent at this noisy, bustling and expensive three-level restaurant, where the 180-degree ocean views and award-winning food make reservations a must. 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, tel 310 458 9294, http://www.thelobster.com $$$$

RED PEARL KITCHEN

This stylish Hollywood restaurant serves creative Asian-inspir ed dishes in an exotic atmosphere. Acrylic and steel combine with rich reds and oranges, whimsical touches such as a chandelier made from authentic kimonos, and glass cases full of Chinese dolls that adorn the wall of an inside dining patio. The chic lounge, as dark as a cave with leather sofas, is just made for romantic trysts. The menu has such intriguing and tasty entrees as shaking Kobe beef with papaya and mint; spicy chicken drunk man noodles; strawberry-cinnamon ribs; and a chocolate soufflé to die for. 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, tel 323 525 1415, http://www.redpearlkitchen.com/losangeles $$$

PHILIPPE

Home of the French-dipped sandwich, this Los Angeles institution, located in a decidedly untrendy downtown neighborhood, has been in business since 1908. It’s always busy; an eclectic clientele line up in front of a long glass-cased counter to order the famous sandwiches, filled with roast beef, roast pork, leg of lamb, turkey or ham, and other old-time comfort foods, such as tapioca pudding, Jell-O and beef stew. There’s sawdust on the floor, and the rambling multi-roomed restaurant is filled with tables that are shared family-style. This could well be the only place in town where a cup of coffee still costs a dime. 1001 North Alameda St., Los Angeles, tel 213 628 3781, http://www.philippes.com $

INFO TO GO

As the country’s fifth busiest airport, estimated to have handled over 60 million passengers in 2006, Los Angeles International (LAX) is the main gateway for travelers to the Greater Los Angeles area. Outside of the baggage claim areas there are a plethora of transportation choices, including shuttles, buses, hotel vans, and taxis. There are no rental car counters at the airport, but vans will pick up customers curbside and deliver them to nearby rental locations. The least expensive transportation option to and from the airport is the LAX Flyaway (tel 866 435 9529). This bus runs every 30 minutes and delivers passengers to one of three locations; Union Station downtown,Westwood Village/UCLA, and Van Nuys in the San Fernando Valley. For more information on LAX check out the airport Web site. Other nearby airports are Bob Hope Airport (BUR) in Burbank; Long Beach Airport (LGB); and Ontario Airport (ONT). Train travelers can take Amtrak (tel 800 USA RAIL) into downtown’s historic Union Station.