Four days into our weeklong voyage around the Galápagos Islands, my brother and I stepped onto Bartolomé Island. The shells of Sally Lightfoot crabs looked like red diamonds bursting through the dark, volcanic rock. Turquoise water stood in shocking contrast.

As we walked along a wooden boardwalk to the high point of the island — 374 feet above sea level — it felt as though we had stepped onto another planet. The reddish-orange dirt, tarnished by iron deposits, bore the scars of craters and avalanche-like paths left behind by flowing lava. From the summit we looked out at Pinnacle Rock. Pockmarked, it leaned toward the water as if some force was pulling it back under sea.

Sea lion on Rabida Island © Seth Singer

Sticky from humidity, we were relieved to put on our wetsuits an hour later for a snorkel through the shallow reef. Galápagos sharks, pufferfish, sea cucumbers, manta rays and other creatures with evocative names like hieroglyphic fish and chocolate chip starfish came into view, one right after another.

You learn quickly: It requires minimal effort to spot wildlife in the Galápagos Islands. A simple glance toward the water might reveal a pair of sea turtles or the fin of a sunfish or a sunbathing penguin. Black marine iguanas lounge together by the thousands, leaving little room to walk. Sea lions greet visitors from under the dock on Baltra Island, one of the main entry points for those boarding boats for multiday excursions.

Giant tortoise © Seth Singer

But it takes a discerning eye to observe some of the islands’ more private residents. It was one of our guides, Soto, who noticed the tentacles of an octopus as we swam around that morning. First appearing purple, it turned blue, then pink as it crawled along the coral.

Sea lion at Urbina Bay © Seth Singer

This tremendous diversity is what brought my brother and me here to this collection of 20 islands off the western coast of Ecuador. The Galápagos Archipelago claims among the highest number of endemic species in the world, meaning the flora and fauna are not found anywhere else on Earth. Almost the entire archipelago was named a national park in 1959, and it became a marine reserve in 1998. We hoped to see creatures like giant tortoises, fur seals, Galápagos penguins and, of course, the iconic blue-footed boobies (which, I learned, are actually not endemic). We didn’t expect to check them off of our lists with such remarkable speed.

Like most visitors, our trip began with a couple of days on the mainland. Quito, Ecuador’s high-elevation capital city (it sits at around 9,300 feet), is a bustling hub of food and culture lying in the shadow of the Andes. Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site where cobblestone streets lead to incredibly preserved Baroque, neo-Gothic and pre-Colombian buildings. Older women sit in their doorways selling potatoes, garlic and citrus fruits such as the orange-like naranjilla. We hired a taxi to take us to the Middle of the World, or 0 degrees latitude, so we could stand with one foot in each hemisphere.

But the center of our universe was Galápagos.

A short flight and a bus and panga (or dinghy) ride brought us to our home base for eight days: Quasar Expeditions’ Evolution yacht. Though it’s possible to stay on one of the main islands and join daylong outings, we felt the only proper way to do this bucket-list trip was to live on the water.

Evolution yacht © Seth Singer

Our boat of choice capped at 32 guests, so we knew we’d get plenty of one-on-one time with the three naturalist guides.

Each one was an encyclopedia of animals and plants. We learned the hundreds of marine iguanas we walked by on Fernandina Island — with their intimidating spines and bony, Bowser-like heads — were warming up after foraging for food in the water because they cannot regulate their own body temperatures. They also explained how to tell the difference between a fur seal and a sea lion (fur seals are smaller and have a thicker coat that turns black when wet). Sea lions are also much more playful, as we discovered when a few nipped at the shoes of a fellow yachtie during a panga excursion.

It’s these unpredictable encounters and the sheer volume of sightings and interactions that make the Galápagos so unforgettable. One afternoon you’re sifting red sand through your hands and watching flamingos take flight; the next, you’re standing mere feet from Galápagos giant tortoises as they lumber slowly across the grass.

Blue-footed boobies © Seth Singer

Every moment feels exclusive and rare. Some truly are, such as when my brother and I stood shoulder to shoulder on the yacht’s bow as Fernandina Volcano erupted and shot sparks of red into the black sky — a fireworks show just for us.

LODGING

FINCH BAY GALAPAGOS HOTEL
Six contemporary suites — with soaking tubs and expansive balconies — recently debuted at Santa Cruz Island’s only beachfront hotel, which boasts a spa and a 20-person yacht for exploring the archipelago.
Barrio Punta Estrada, Puerto
Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galápagos
$$$$$

MONTEMAR ECO LUXURY VILLAS
Giant tortoises free-roam this hyperlocal, sustainable lodge on Santa Cruz started by naturalist guides. It has its own farm and features just two luxe villas (sleeping four or eight).
Km. 13.7 via Baltra, El Carmen,
Santa Cruz Island, Galápagos
$$$$$

ROYAL PALM GALAPAGOS, CURIO COLLECTION HOTEL BY HILTON
Nestled into the Miconia Highland Forests of Santa Cruz, the private estate features 21 hacienda-style accommodations, an infinity pool and an underground restaurant built into a lava tunnel.
Km. 18 Via Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galápagos
$$$$

DINING
ALMAR
Go for the waterfront views, stay for the fresh seafood (ceviche, whole grilled fish) prepared using traditional recipes and local ingredients.
Charles Darwin Avenue and Marchena Street, Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galápagos
$$$

LA CASA DEL ASADO DE ANÍBAL GARCÍA
A locals’ favorite on Isabela Island, this open-air grill features communal seating and fresh meats and seafood. If lobster is in season, order it.
77 Puerto Villamel, Isabela Island, Galápagos
$$$

FINCH BAY GALAPAGOS RESTAURANT
Elevating this spot to much more than a hotel restaurant, Chef Andrés Orlando serves elegant Ecuadorian-Galapagueño cuisine with an international twist, often featuring vegetables grown in the on-site garden.
Barrio Punta Estrada,
Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galápagos
$$$$

Marine iguana © Seth Singer

INFO TO GO
Because of its protected status, Galápagos has strict rules for entry, including paying a Galápagos National Park entrance fee upon arrival ($200 for adult international visitors, $100 for children under 12). Flights via LATAM Airlines or avianca depart daily from mainland Ecuador — Quito (UIO) or Guayaquil (GYE) — to Galápagos Seymour Ecological Airport on Baltra Island and San Cristóbal Island Airport.