The National Trust owns more than 500 historic buildings across the United Kingdom, each offering a vivid sense of its particular era. In common with many visitors, I often find myself wondering what it would be like to actually live in such a place. Imagine sitting, for instance, in one of those ancient oak-paneled drawing rooms at night, with the fire roaring and the wind rattling the ancient mullioned windows. I didn’t have to imagine it. Here I was, immersed in history in 17^th-century Bodysgallen Hall in North Wales.

Bodysgallen Hall is one of three National Trust properties run as a luxury hotel and spa by Historic House Hotels. For the duration of a stay, visitors don’t just get to enjoy the house and its extensive grounds, but they also get free entry to any National Trust property in the vicinity (which, in this part of Wales, includes magnificent Penrhyn Castle). American citizens also have the option of joining Royal Oak Foundation, which, for $80 per year, provides free entry to all National Trust attractions across the United Kingdom.

© Historic House Hotels

As with most British country houses, the history of Bodysgallen Hall is entwined with a particular family, in this case the Mostyn family, who owned it from Elizabethan times until 1969. The connection persists. When we arrived at our room, a plaque on the door proclaimed it to be the Mostyn Suite. We entered into the living room. A corridor connected to the gentleman’s bathroom, complete with a shower. Another door led from the living room through to the spacious bedroom and en-suite bathroom. Leaded windows provided different angles on to some of the hall’s 200 acres of parkland and formal gardens.

There would be plenty of time to explore outside during our stay, but our first task was to smarten up for dinner. The restaurant, which boasts two Automobile Association rosettes (denoting it to be a regional standout), is overseen by head chef Abdalla El Shershaby.

© Historic House Hotels

Disconcertingly, when we entered, I saw a familiar face on the wall: a plaque dedicated to the former speaker of the House of Commons, Lord Tonypandy (1909–1997), a proud Welshman, whom I had met in Africa in the early 1990s.

I chose a starter of cured duck breast with wasabi mayonnaise followed by Welsh lamb. My wife opted for seared tuna and sirloin steak. Every table was occupied; the place hummed with hushed conversation. But by the time we reached dessert — Eton mess for me (crushed meringue, cream and strawberries) and passion fruit panna cotta for my wife — we realized we were the only ones left. Where had everyone gone?

We found out when we left the restaurant. The Elizabethan public rooms were full of erstwhile diners drinking coffee while playing board games. Never had a hotel felt quite so homey.

© Historic House Hotels

At breakfast, we sat at the same table as the night before, but with a breathtaking daytime view now, looking across parkland to Conwy Castle. We spent the day touring the spectacular North Wales coastline. The combination of sudden squalls followed by bright sunshine displayed the scenery at its best, often beneath double rainbows. The beautiful light persisted on return. We explored Bodysgallen’s formal gardens with their manicured hedges and walled enclosures.

We took afternoon tea beside the fire. The Times has rated Bodysgallen’s afternoon tea as one of the top 10 in the country. We were served a selection of sandwiches, cakes and scones, and our choice from the menu of teas and fruit infusions. Then our itineraries divided. My wife made use of the spa, a short downhill walk from the hotel. As well as a range of treatments, the spa offers a gym, swimming pool, sauna and steam room. I retreated to our suite to engage in the typical routine of the males of Britain on a weekend afternoon: a nap followed by a soccer match on TV.

© Historic House Hotels

After two nights, we reluctantly vacated our suite and left Wales. It was a two-hour drive to Blists Hill Victorian Town near Telford, a National Trust attraction that requires pre-booking. Visitors find themselves immersed in the past in recreations of 19^th-century streets, complete with functioning pub, fish and chip shop, and school. Having spent our nights in a fine Elizabethan country house, we were suddenly in a working-class industrial town surrounded by people in period dress. We had managed to travel in time twice in a single weekend.

Bodysgallen Hall
The Royal Welsh Way
Llandudno, North Wales, LL30 1RS, United Kingdom
tel 44 1492 584466