The movie a river runs through it placed flyfishing on many radar screens. And because of that popular Robert Redford-directed film, Montana quickly became an “it” destination. That was 1992. While beautiful Montana remains a go-to spot for many flyfishermen, cutting-edge anglers now dream about casting a line in Patagonia.

In this vast, pristine South American wilderness, the fly-fishing experience makes even incredible destinations pale by comparison. Extending more than a thousand miles through southern Argentina and spilling across Chile as well, Patagonia remains isolated, unspoiled and magnificent; akin to the American West of 100 years ago. On the Argentinean side, this wilderness is about the size of Texas. As seasons are reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, the fishing season runs from mid-November to mid-April.

I arrived in Patagonia early in the season, the end of November. My destination, northern Patagonia’s Tipiliuke Lodge, is in a breathtaking location just outside San Martin de los Andes at the foot of the mountains. While tourists, mostly of the fishing kind, stay at Tipiliuke, it is also an estancia (a working ranch), where the gauchos (cowboys) work as hard as the fishermen. The 48,000-acre estancia, owned by Miguel de Larminat, was founded by his pioneer grandfather, who put down roots after emigrating from France in the early 1900s. De Larminat trekked through many areas of Argentina, settling on this region as the most beautiful of all and a good place to extend the French branch of his family. Today the combination of a working, cattle-breeding ranch and fly-fishing heaven keeps visitors enthralled. Upon arrival, I readily understood why Patagonia lures dedicated fishermen from around the globe.

Two noteworthy rivers, the Chimehuin and Quilquihue, and a private creek offer guests miles of fishing on the property. The cozy lodge’s nine guestrooms and comfortable sitting areas may be supplemented by renting the owners’ three-bedroom home. Even on day one, the attentive service offered by Kevin Tiemersma and his charming wife, Maria Jose, in addition to the wonderful food prepared under the direction of a Frenchtrained chef, made me feel like a welcome guest in a private home.

By 6 p.m. we are in our waders and fishing vests. Packing our rods, reels and flies, we arrive at the river just in time for the evening rise. My host and guide, Kevin, seems to know every inch of the river. By 10 p.m., when there is barely enough light to see our lines, I have landed countless trout.

The next morning we head out around 10 a.m., just as the fish begin to stir on the surface. Both the quality and the quantity of fish are extraordinary. The native trout, divided between rainbow and brown, are healthy and extremely strong. A 16-inch rainbow on a fine leader immediately takes me into my backing. Even in all their abundance, though, the fish remain wary and selective enough to require a good presentation for any chance at hooking one. Somewhat imperious, they seem to scoff at an improper presentation and will ignore you, making a knowledgeable guide a must.

The fish, while not huge (they range from 14 to 24 inches), compensate with extreme feistiness, a characteristic that is most appealing to better fishermen. On a light tackle they do not allow themselves to be horsed in, and strategy becomes paramount. Some fly-fishermen feel that floating is most appropriate on a gorgeous river, but at Tipiliuke wading provides access to deep pools and runs unreachable from a boat. For example, we walked up a hill in one locale and spotted the fish from there. Then we climbed down, stalked and landed them.

Skilled guides and accessible water make it possible even for beginners to have a successful experience, while proficient fishermen will simply have the time of their lives. The Chimehuin offers a challenging spectrum of fishing environments, from small str eams and side channels to ponds and rapid riffles. Most of the fish feed on the surface, but the renowned Patagonia wind offers a constant distraction that Kevin cannily overcomes time after time. He also ensures the fish remain uninjured. (It’s always catch-and-release here.) Distractions easily come via the mind-boggling scenery, which includes rolling land carpeted with golden broom and rugged mountains capped by the famed Lanin Volcano. In this spectacular setting one commonly sees a family of wild boars march close by or the shadow cast by a huge condor soaring overhead.

Rather than lunch streamside, we return to the lodge around 2 p.m., where a table set to please even Martha Stewart awaits under a poplar tree in the gardens. A typical lunch can include wood-grilled Argentine beef or the famed local lamb, accompanied by a Patagonian Pinot Noir. In the evening the fishing turns out to be even better, and as summer is approaching, daylight extends to an almost surreal 10:30 p.m. Taking our cue from the guides, we remain on the river until the last daylight filters across the landscape in order to take advantage of the trouts’ predictable, late feeding frenzy before they retire for the evening. Absoltutely thrilled, we return to the lodge for cocktails and dinner, customarily served around 11 p.m. in this part of the world.

A beautiful day done, another to come.

Fishing is certainly the main attraction here, but guests can explore the property on foot or horseback and participate in daily ranch activities such as branding and cattle drives. Even the most devoted fisherman might be tempted to leave the water temporarily for another challenge, such as a round of golf at the new Jack Nicklaus-designed Chapelco course. (The golf legend stayed and fished here when his course opened.)

Anglers with more time often split their stays between two or more properties. Arroyo Verde, another legendary fishing lodge, is an elegant family-owned estancia outside of Bariloche. Set amid the Andes and offering challenging fishing on 10 miles of the Traful River, it’s a scenic (especially through the mostly unpaved Route of the Seven Lakes) four-hour ride from San Martin de los Andes to Bariloche. At the beginning of the season the Traful runs high and fast, lowering come December but remaining fast until mid-January. Crystal-clear, the river offers challenging pools and rapids. The lodge features well-appointed guestrooms in the main house and a lake-view log cabin that can accommodate two to four guests. Most of the delicious food (from beef to ice cream) is produced on the estancia.

While the rivers around San Martin de los Andes and Bariloche have been familiar to trout fishermen for decades, Esquel, another region to the south, is being touted as the next best “new” place to fish. A day’s drive or 45 minutes by air from Bariloche, this region accommodates fishermen at several comfortable lodges, and its rivers are chock-full of lively trout. If that’s not enough, you can travel to Chile on a one-day boat/bus journey through the Andes between Bariloche and Petrohue. Close by is Fundo el Salto, an old farmhouse overlooking the awesome Orsono Volcano, where you can float the Rio Petrohue for brown and rainbow trout. Nearby Puerto Montt boasts an incredible fish market (with restaurants) that should not be missed. From there you can fly home via Santiago.

Reflecting on those pristine, fishladen waters, I realize one could easily spend a week just at Tipiliuke and never fish the same spot twice. All the more reason to return again and again.

INFO TO GO

Aerolineas Argentinas flies between Buenos Aires and San Martin de los Andes, Bariloche and Esquel. For fly-fishing in Chile, Lan Chile offers flights between Santiago and Puerto Montt. Wherever you stay, your lodge will pick you up at the airport. Frontiers (tel 800 245 1950, http://www.frontierstravel.com) has 40 years of experience arranging fishing trips and will seamlessly arrange a dream visit to several hot spots. Frontiers works with established local outfitters who represent the best lodges and provide well-trained, talented guides. Rates at Tipiliuke (tel 54 11 4806 8877, http://www.tipiliuke.com) and Arroyo Verde (tel 54 11 801 7448) are about $740 per night.