The laid-back demeanor of Mexico’s dreamy coastal retreats often lulls me into contemplating little more than the flavor of my next umbrella drink. Yet with each new south-of-the-border journey, I find myself seduced by diversions that prevent kicking back as much as I had planned.

Both nostalgic and splashy, Mexico’s pearly strands swarm the senses with sights, sounds, scents and flavors reflecting the country’s distinctive landscapes and history. From ancient Mayan ruins of the Yucatán to cobblestone streets of colorful fishing villages, each destination stirs its own signature flavor into the mix. Toss in lavish beachfront resorts, championship golf and posh spas, and you’ll have a recipe for a delectable balance of relaxation and recreation.

Debating which region to hit? It’s all a matter of taste. For a blend of traditional and modern high-end hideaways, you’ll find a slew of beauties lining the Pacific. If you’re drawn to warm Caribbean water and cool ecotourism, you can’t beat the Yucatán. Bent on reeling in a marlin or teeing off along the beach? Then pack your bags for Baja.

Pacific Coast Jewels

Sprawling 1,000 miles from Mazatlán to Huatulco, Mexico’s Pacific shore is a treasure trove of blissful beach escapes. Known as the Mexican Riviera, the country’s central coast is backed by sweeping jungles that crawl to golden sands. Miles of swaying palms, picturesque bays, sumptuous dining, exuberant nightlife and multifarious accommodations boost the appeal.

The matriarch of this celebrated roster is Acapulco, an urban beach resort that shot into the spotlight during the 1950s as a playground for Hollywood celebrities and jet-setting playboys. Fringing a crescent bay sparkling with private yachts and cruise ships, the legendary town is terraced into a hillside that unfolds to incredible views.

By day, sun worshippers frolic in front of luxuriant hotels that range from modest to palatial. At night, however, it’s all about Avenida Costera Miguel Aleman’s chic eateries and upbeat discos coaxing night owls to party until dawn.

Well before I ever visited Mexico, I was drawn to Acapulco’s most recognizable symbol, La Quebrada. There’s such intensity to the sound of crashing waves that both beckon and threaten brave cliff divers. Most visitors tuck into the mirador (viewpoint) close to the cliffs to watch in awe as these fearless men launch themselves into the rocky cove below.

While La Quebrada isn’t a recreational option for visitors, those seeking thrills can bungee-jump, swim with dolphins at Condesa Beach or rip across the Papagayo River on a Shotover Jet speedboat.

Once considered a bit worn, Acapulco is seeing a renaissance these days thanks to what’s being billed as the most ambitious tourism development in Mexico’s Pacific Coast history. Rolling out in phases through March 2009 in the ultra-exclusive Punta Diamante district, the mega Il Duomo Convention, Exhibition and Entertainment Center at Mundo Imperial Resort is already pumping fresh energy into the destination.

Indulging well-heeled travelers is an 805-room hotel that’s full of frills; a 4,000-person special events center; the posh Sol Imperial Spa & Wellness Center and an outdoor pedestrian plaza lined with shops, cafés and gourmet restaurants.

Another Hollywood hotbed — famous for the headline-grabbing affair of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor during the 1963 filming of The Night of the Iguana — the once-mellow fishing village of Puerto Vallarta still retains provincial charm and rhythm.

Set on Banderas Bay, the resort is defined by its active malecon (promenade) that’s dotted with benches, statues, seaside cafés, boutiques and trendy nightclubs. It’s also a vibrant artist community that thrives with galleries showcasing unique creations.

With such a storied past, Puerto Vallarta demands exploration. My favorite city tour heads up the narrow cobblestone streets past whitewashed homes to the “Gringo Gulch” neighborhood and Casa Kimberly — the infamous love nest once shared by Liz and Dick. Today, it’s a bed and breakfast of another type, allowing visitors to experience firsthand the ambience of that golden era.

Natural attractions here are as wild as was The Night of the Iguana filming, with tour operators offering everything from jungle waterfall hikes and scuba diving to zip-lining through a jungle canopy.

While many beachfront hotels near downtown are being revamped, Puerto Vallarta’s enduring appeal has sparked expansion further north. Posturing itself as the region’s fresh face, Riviera Nayarit is steadily unfolding with a new breed of sumptuous trappings.

Hugging 100 miles of pristine shore, this newcomer stretches from Nuevo Vallarta to Punta Mita and on to the historic colonial town of San Blas. Thanks to its attractive ensemble of sophisticated lodgings, it’s having no problem living up to its newfound reputation as one of the hottest upscale vacation spots in Mexico.

What I relish most about Riviera Nayarit is that it’s immune to Puerto Vallarta’s bustle yet still offers convenient access to the neighboring resort. As a well-conceived master plan falls into place, however, guests are finding there’s really little reason to leave.

Taking full advantage of its magnificent setting, Riviera Nayarit has three well-equipped marinas and three more in the works. One is the splashy anchor of Paradise Village Beach Resort and Spa, an oasis that’s also home to the popular El Tigre Golf Course.

Vallarta Adventures (tel 52 322 297 1212, www.vallarta-adventures.com) makes it a logistical breeze to swim with dolphins, day-trip deep into the Sierra Madre or catch a cruise to the secluded tropical sanctuary of Las Caletas. The operator also runs aquatic adventures to the Marietas Islands, recently declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO.

Upscale lodgings seem endless, with the new St. Regis and Four Seasons resorts in Punta Mita crowning the list. The region is also grabbing attention as one of Mexico’s foremost golf destinations, with four courses currently in full swing and a pair set to open by 2011.

Upping the ante as an extension to Punta Mita is Litibu, a posh development that will add eight new hotels, private residences, an onsite dolphinarium, a swank shopping center and a Greg Norman 18-hole masterpiece.

Caribbean Charmers

While posh properties lining sugarwhite sandy beaches lure most visitors to Mexico’s stunning Caribbean paradise, others are drawn by the region’s emerging eco-tourism focus.

Mellow travelers tend to shy away from highly developed Cancun, considering it little more than a boomtown on the beach. Yet, as ultra-chic boutique properties like the ME Cancun spring up amid the usual players, accommodations are palatable to almost every type of traveler.

I recall my first Cancun afternoon among the most pleasant aquatic memories I have. Like a buoy bobbing up and down with the waves, I was swept away by the magical feel of being swaddled in turquoise. As hard as it is to break from the sea, those who do discover that daytripping is a dream here. You can trek to the walled Mayan settlement of Tulum, swim in the nearby labyrinthine underwater cave system, enjoy seasonal swimming with whale sharks at Isla Holbox and splash the day away at the water parks of Xcaret and Xel-Ha.

I opted to explore Cozumel, an understated island that caters to serious divers seeking little beyond belowthe- surface encounters. It’s mostly dominated by less splashy properties planted near top scuba areas, with dive operators onsite. Kiteboarding is also taking off here, thanks to Cozumel’s steady offshore winds.

On my return to Cancun, I ferried to Playa del Carmen to check out the hoopla. It’s easy to see why Mexico’s Caribbean tourism tide is turning toward the Riviera Maya. This festive town is an international melting pot with a distinguished Mexican flair.

The Riviera Maya runs south from Playa del Carmen and ends at the village of Tulum. The stretch is famous for its large-scale, all-inclusive resorts and a historical tourism base of smaller designer hotels along Highway 307, a coastal route taking off from Cancun.

In my book, the ancient Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza truly seal the deal for visiting this region. One of the Seven Wonders of the World, this archaeological site is a “wow” experience regardless of how often you’re able to trek topside to soak in the inspiring views. Flanking El Castillo, the majestic ruin perched atop a 40-foothigh cliff, is a pair of beaches inviting you to cool off during exploration. To me, this is the quintessential experience that defines the Riviera Maya and why it tends to retain its exotic allure despite a steady influx of visitors.

The Beautiful Baja

Once little more than a well-kept secret among the rich and famous, Los Cabos has propelled to the most dynamic vacation spot in Mexico — especially among a new generation of jet-setters who board private planes in the morning and bask on Baja sand in the afternoon.

To clear the confusion, Los Cabos is actually home to three distinctive vacation areas. San José del Cabo is an 18th-century mission town that relies more on the colonial charm than glitzy resorts. Some 20 miles southwest, Cabo San Lucas is the hotspot considered by many as “Newport Beach South” thanks to its “SoCal” influences. Connecting the two is The Corridor, which has blossomed into an elite retreat for those with big budgets and a passion for posh properties.

With an impressive collection of eight premier golf courses and exclusive spas adding to its mix, Los Cabos has evolved into a high-end escape that’s burgeoned far beyond its former status as a hangout for boisterous merry-makers.

Anglers and divers gravitate to its wealthy waters brimming with aquatic treasures. Dramatic rock formations and desert landscapes also render it the preferred playground for eco-tourism. Operators have buffed up an already formidable line-up with Baja Outback Hummer Tours (tel 52 624 142 9200, www.bajaoutback.com), sailing on Cabo Adventures’ (tel 52 624 173 9500, www.cabo-adventures.com) three-hour America’s Cup contender yachts, zip-lining with the UNESCOprotected Boca de Sierra National Park as a backdrop and interacting with the friendly mammals at the new Cabo Dolphins (tel 52 624 173 9500, www.cabodolphins.com).

Los Cabos’ setting is considered one of the most recognized among Mexico’s coastal resorts. El Arco, a natural stone arch formed where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean, stands as a monument to the breathtaking contrasts.

No matter how often I visit, I always make it a point to venture out to Land’s End either via kayak or by hopping onto a water taxi from Playa Medano. Add in fishing and sunset charters from Cabos’ sparkling new marina, and this destination offers it all with a fun, feisty attitude.

LODGING

One&Only Palmilla
Once a tropical hideaway for the likes of Harlow and Hemingway, One&Only Palmilla has unveiled 13 new beachfront casitas that continue to perpetuate its quintessential elegance. The grande dame of Los Cabos’ resorts sprawls along The Corridor, gracefully tucked within a 900- acre master-planned community that’s crowned by an opulent spa and the 27- hole Jack Nicklaus-designed Palmilla Golf Club. Appointed with handcrafted Mexican accents, each of the 172 guestrooms faces the sea with expansive views from private patios and balconies.
One&Only Palmilla
Km 7.5, Carretera Transpeninsular, San José del Cabo,
Baja California Sur,
tel 52 624 146 7000. $$$$
www.oneandonlyresorts.com

The St. Regis Punta Mita Resort
In its captivating 22-acre setting on one of the world’s most alluring beaches, the new St. Regis Punta Mita features 120 lavishly appointed guestrooms and suites that define luxury. Amenities are just as lush with Punta Mita’s second Jack Nicklaus signature golf course meandering through the resort grounds, a 10,000-square-foot Remède Spa Spa, three infinity pools and three premier restaurants. Guests are also pampered with St. Regis signature room amenities like personal butler service and 24-hour private dining.
The St. Regis Punta Mita Resort
Lote H-4, Carretera Federal 200,
Km 19.5, Punta de Mita, Nayarit,
tel 52 329 291 5800. $$$$
www.starwoodhotels.com

The Tides Riviera Maya
Nestled in a tropical forest along talcumwhite sands just beyond Playa del Carmen, The Tides Riviera Maya (formerly Ikal Del Mar) exudes the ambience of an opulent residential compound. The epitome of unpretentious luxury, the 30-villa seaside refuge shines with a full-service luxury spa and the award-winning “Mayaterranean” cuisine of La Marea. Its eco-conscious focus is free of motorized vehicles and cell phones, and a simple guest book serves for check-in. Each private villa features over 1,000 square feet of secluded space.
The Tides Riviera Maya
Riviera Maya Playa Xcalacoco Frac 7, Quintana Roo,
tel 52 984 877 3000. $$$$
www.tidesrivieramaya.com

DINING

Azur
Chef Franco Maddalozzo presides over this little slice of paradise tucked poolside at the sprawling Aqua Cancun. A native of Milan, Maddalozzo has created a menu that combines the best of Mediterranean and Asian culinary traditions while playing up fresh local ingredients. The result is an international dining experience that tickles the palate with tantalizing ceviches and tapas. Glazed rib-eye tacos and Mediterranean hogfish sashimi with truffle essence star among Maddalozzo’s signature fusion dishes.
Azur
Blvd. Kukulcán 12.5, Cancun,
tel 52 998 881 7600. $$$
www.feel-aqua.com

Café des Artistes
Situated in a century-old hillside home overlooking Puerto Vallarta’s malecon, Café des Artistes has earned a distinguished reputation as one of the finest restaurants in the country. This 212-seat gourmet establishment showcases the culinary artistry of Chef Thierry Blouet, known for his extensive French training. Among the most requested specialties on his changing menu of three-course bistro fare are the sea bass filet served with polenta and the roasted duck glazed with honey, soy, ginger and lime sauce, served with a pumpkin risotto.
Café des Artistes
Guadalupe Sanchez 740, Centro, Puerto Vallarta,
tel 52 322 222 3228. $$$$
www.cafedesartistes.com

The Restaurant
Simply called “The Restaurant,” this extraordinary eatery at Las Ventanas al Paraiso escalates the dining experience with a mixture of Mediterranean and Mexican cuisine as remarkable as its setting. For a tantalizing starter, try the Ensenada steamed mussels served in coconut milk with a hint of chile arbol. Within a constantly changing menu, two sumptuous selections are the prime filet mignon in cabernet sauce and grilled rack of lamb with garlic potatoes. The Baja- Mediterranean-inspired décor showcases a hand-painted wall mural reflecting the essence of the local area.
The Restaurant
Km 19.5, Carretera Transpeninsular,
San José del Cabo, Baja California Sur,
tel 52 624 144 2800. $$$$
www.lasventanas.com

INFO TO GO

Both Acapulco (ACA) and Puerto Vallarta (PVR) are home to international airports that welcome nonstop flights from U.S. gateways, as well as connecting flights from Mexico City (MEX). The Riviera Nayarit is also serviced by Portoviejo Airport (PVO). The Yucatán’s primary airport is Cancun International Airport (CUN), with smaller airports at Cozumel (CZM) and Playa del Carmen (PCM). Visitors can also travel on Highway 370 via bus or rental car from Cancun to Playa del Carmen and ferry to the island of Cozumel. In the Baja, Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) is situated between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo.