It´s east to understand why Istanbul, a literal and symbolic bridge between Europe and Asia has lured foreign visitors since ancient times. Built on seven hills along the banks of the Bosporus, the waterway that separates Europe and Asia, while connecting the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, this fabled city is an enchanting blend of ancient and modern. Mosques and minarets that house the constant cry of the muezzin, colorful bazaars and sultans’ palaces all add to the magic of one of the world’s most enticing destina- tions for discerning travelers. Yet, while Istanbul is called “the cradle of civilization” for its rich history, this dynamic, sprawling metropolis looks far into its future as well. Turks are understandably proud of both their ancestry and their forward thinking.

Istanbul’s rare mix of rapid modernization and traditional values makes it an attractive market for investment and tourism. For all its history, the Republic of Turkey is a relatively young country, founded in 1922. It is an odd combination: a secular democracy with a predominantly

Muslim population closely aligned with the West. Its leaders are pushing modernization to strengthen that democracy and to globalize its economy while maintaining the utmost respect for its cultural treasures. This openness includes a burgeoning private sector drawn to Istanbul’s strategic location at the northwestern edge of the country, a compelling base for economic growth throughout the region.

The United States and Turkey have a long history as trading partners. More recently, commercial and economic relations between the two nations have developed into a mutually beneficial partnership. It is both a lucrative market for U.S. exports and for joint projects and investments. The two countries are also exploring the possibility of creating industrial zones in Turkey with special investment and trade incentives to expand commercial relations. The United States supports establishment of the strategic Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline, seen as an important component of the Euro-Asian energy transportation network.

While increasing the level of its exports, Turkey has diversified its trade. The world’s second largest clothing producer and third largest exporter of textiles, Turkey exports more than 19,000 different products to 200 countries. Leather processing, jewelry, iron, steel, machinery, and transportation equipment are all significant exports. Turkey is also the world’s largest producer of hardshell nuts, figs and apricots. A recent shift in Turkish exports has seen manufactured goods surpass agricultural products. The result has been an economic surge of more than 7 percent growth between 2002 and 2006. Yet, many observers believe these gains are just a glimmer of Turkey’s trade potential, especially with the United States. Yet, high debt and high unemployment remain impediments to Turkey reaching its full economic potential.

Turkey has long looked west, often with a mix of apprehension and yearning. It has been part of NATO since 1952 and is an associate member of the European Union. But gaining full membership will take some time (probably a decade or more), as important domestic and foreign issues still must be resolved. Last September, for example, it was reported that Turkey had made insufficient progress on freedom of expression, minority rights, corruption and violence against women. As of mid- 2006, only 44 percent of Turkish citizens supported the country’s entry into the European Union, partly because they see E.U. membership adding considerably to the cost of living and adversely affecting tourism. Secular Turks also are concerned with the appointment of Abdullah Gul, an Islamic, as the presidential candidate by the ruling AK party. Moderate in its stance since the party came to power in 2002, AK is responsible for much of Turkey’s economic progress.

LODGING

THE FOUR SEASONS ISTANBUL

Situated in the Old City (now called Sultanahmet), the Four Seasons was transformed from an old prison into a small luxury hotel (there are 65 guestrooms and suites) that has quickly become Istanbul’s hotel of choice. Request a room with a view of the famed Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. There’s also a great view from the roof terrace. Located next door to the famed Topkapi Palace and many more enticing attractions, the Four Seasons enables even the most harried business travelers to see some of the city. $$$$

FOUR SEASONS ISTANBUL
Tevkifhane Sokak 1
tel 800 332 3443, 90 212 638 8200
fax 90 212 638 8210
http://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul

KEMPINSKI CIRAGAN PALACE

This deluxe property along the Bosporus includes part of the last sultan’s palace. Guestrooms in the main tower have balconies overlooking the water and views of the palace, while the all-suite palace rooms have been recently enhanced. The 315-room hotel has beautiful gardens and a swimming pool that make it especially appealing during the warm summer months when it is akin to staying at a resort. Be sure to book time in the hotel’s hammam (Turkish bath) when you arrive. Although the hotel is a distance from the Old City, especially with Istanbul’s chaotic traffic, the lovely setting more than makes up for this inconvenience, especially for those who have seen some of the sights before. $$$$
KEMPINSKI CIRAGAN PALACE
Ciragan Caddesi 32
Besiktas
tel 800 745 8883, 90 212 326 4646
fax 90 212 259 6687
http://www.kempinski.com

YESIL EV (GREEN HOUSE)
For a culturally authentic local experience, check into Yesil Ev. Formerly a 19th century mansion, the 19-room hotel is decorated in late Ottoman style (brass beds, tasseled velvet curtains) and includes a Pasha’s suite with a Turkish-style bath. Located at the edge of a park between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, the hotel has a lovely garden for breakfast and cocktails. $$$
YESIL EV
Kabasakal Sok
tel 90 212 517 6785
fax 90 212 259 6687
http://www.istanbulyesilev.com

DINING

TUGRA RESTAURANT

Located in the luxurious Ciragan Palace Hotel, this elegant restaurant offers the ultimate Ottoman dining experience. Here centuries old recipes for dishes served to the sultans have been culled from outof- print cookbooks and perfected for the 21st century. On a warm evening, request an outdoor table overlooking the Bosporus. $$$
TUGRA RESTAURANT
Ciragan Caddesi 32
Besiktas
tel 90 212 326 4646

KIYI
Fish just out of the sea is what you’ll find at Kiyi, long one of the city’s best fish restaurants. Situated along the Bosporus in Tarayba, an upscale suburb, this informal restaurant is easily reached by taxi or ferryboat. As is customary, waiters will bring out a tray of fish (caught by local fisherman) so discerning diners can make their selection. Along with the perfectly prepared fish are excellent meze (appetizers) and good Turkish wines. $$
KIYI
Kefelikoy Caddesi 126
tel 90 212 262 0002

DEVELI
An outstanding restaurant for meat, this long-time favorite features the tasty, somewhat spicier cooking of southeastern Turkey. After meze, such as Turkish pizza topped with minced lamb, move on to the special kebab with pistachios. Most of the other diners will be regulars and there will be little English spoken, so watch them and order likewise. You won’t be disappointed. $$
DEVELI
Gumusyuzuk Sokak 7
Samatya
tel 90 212 529 0833

TIKE

Tike is a modern upscale kebab house specializing in southeast Anatolian cuisine. All the food is fresh and tasty and, as is expected in a better kebab house, all the meat is hand chopped. At lunch most diners seemed to be doing business, but that hardly stops them from enjoying the delicious assortment of meze and kebabs. If it’s warm, plan to dine in the garden of this charming house. There are now several branches throughout the city. $$
TIKE
Haci Adil Caddesi 4 Aralik 1,2
Levent
tel 90 212 281 8871

Turkish Style

Turkish food is more than worthy of exploration and there is no better place to dive in than Istanbul. The restaurants of the moment — they seem to open daily — such as Reina and 360 Istanbul offer fusion food and great people-watching, which suits most Istanbullus just fine. The Turks are justifiably proud of their wide-ranging cuisine, which they believe to be one of the world’s best (after French and Chinese). The Ottoman kitchen can be traced back over 600 years, when cooking was considered a true art form. When dining, locals first decide whether they want fish or meat (usually lamb), then choose the restaurant accordingly. The most popular dish is sish kebab, which is said to have its origins among Turkish soldiers fighting in the mountains. They used sticks to cook pieces of hunted sheep over an open fire. A typical Turkish meal today begins with meze, a mouthwatering array of hors d’oeuvres and ends with a syrupy dessert, such as baklava. Be sure to try raki, Turkey’s national drink. It is made from anisette mixed with water. Locals tend to dine late, around 9 p.m.

In addition to Istanbul’s many excellent luxury and business hotels, there are a number of atmospheric boutique properties that offer accommodations; many in former private homes and mansions.They include Sumahan on the Water (51 Kuleli Caddesi, Cengelkoy, tel 90 216 422 8000, http://www.sumahan.com), an upscale 20-room waterfront hotel on the Asian side, situated in a former 19th century brewery. Its restaurant, Kordon, has dockside tables where you can enjoy the serenity of the water. Another special hideaway is the very hip, centrally located Gallery Residence (Valikonagi Caddesi Suleyman Nazif Sokak 10, Nisantasi, tel 90 212 291 7710, http://www.galleryresidence.com/en/index.php), where the walls are decorated with art by Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec and Picasso.

DIVERSIONS

Istanbul can be overwhelming, especially for first-time visitors. If it is your first time, hire a guide to see the mandatory sights. The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet, the Old City, tel 90 212 518 1319) is a 17th century architectural masterpiece and Istanbul’s most important landmark. Its Iznik tiles alone are captivating. While most of Istanbul’s mosques have from one to four minarets, the Blue Mosque has six. Another architectural wonder is the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya Meydani, Sultanahmet, tel 90 212 522 1750), built as a Christian church in the 6th century. After the Ottoman conquest it became a mosque and is now a museum.

Topkapi Palace (Babihumayun Caddesi, Sultanahmet, tel 90 212 512 0480), another must,was the original palace of the Ottoman sultans. Don’t miss the huge kitchen, the 400-room harem, the sultan’s private court and the halls of the treasury. Its overthe- top jewelry collection includes an 86-carat diamond and unique jeweled artifacts.

On a sunny day, take the ferry up the Bosporus, past old fortresses, yalis (wooden villas) and fishing villages. At Kanlica, one of the stops on the Anatolyan (Asian) shore, be sure to try the particularly rich yogurt.

Shopping for treasures? Istanbul, a major stop on the ancient Silk Road, has long been a magnet for traders. Today its Grand Bazaar — in Turkish, Kapali Carsi (Carsikapi Caddesi, Beyazit) — consists of 4,000 shops on 80 streets and alleys, yet all within one building. It is located in the Old City along a road that once led to Rome. While the Bazaar is known mostly for its gold jewelry, bargain hunters can also find world-renowned carpets, hand-crafted copper, hand-painted ceramics, leather clothing and antiques. Another good place for jewelry is Candan (Kapalicarsi Zincirli Han 18, tel 90 212 522 6531),where the talented Muzaffer Candan creates beautiful jewels to order.Telephone ahead for directions. Chalabi sells Ottoman silver and jewelry (Sandal Bedesten Sokak 6, tel 90 212 522 8171). For high quality carpets, go to Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery (Kucuk Ayasofya Caddesi,Tavukhane Sodak 7, tel 90 212 517 6808,http://www.cetinkayagallery.com).

Another unique experience is the Spice Bazaar (Cami Meydani Sokak), its air laden with the aroma of cinnamon, saffron and mint. Hospitable Turks in the bazaar will let you taste their specialties, such as pastirma (the original pastrami).

The Istanbul Golf Club, founded in 1895, is one of Europe’s oldest golf courses. A more modern, challenging experience can be had at the Klassis Golf and Country Club and the Kemer Golf and Country Club. Both are about a 25-minute ride from the city.

Just the Facts

Phone Code: Country code 90,city code 212

Currency: Turkish lira (TL)

Entry/Exit Requirements: Visas are required for U.S. citizens. Three-month visas can be obtained at entry points. For longer visits, visas must be obtained in advance (http://www.turkishembassy.org).

Official Language: Turkish (written in the Latin alphabet). English is spoken in hotels and at tourist attractions.

Key Industries: Textiles, clothing, leather, jewelry, agricultural products, mining, machinery and tourism

INFO TO GO

Ataturk International Airport (IST) is located on the European side of Istanbul, about 17 miles from downtown. Delta has daily nonstop flights from New York (JFK) and Turkish Airlines has daily nonstop service from JFK and Chicago (ORD). British Airways flies to Istanbul through London (LHR). It is best to take a taxi or hotel car into the city, which takes about 20 to 30 minutes, depending upon traffic and costs about $15. For travel information, call 212 687 2194 or visit http://www.tourismturkey.org For b.usiness information, visit http://www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov