Enclosed by walls, hilltop Laguardia, Spain, is a travel-poster model of a medieval town. Below spread the vineyards of Rioja, Spain’s northern wine region, and the maze of ancient tunnels built for escape in case of attack now cellar its wines. No cars are permitted through the massive gates, so visitors need to climb the steep main street to reach the medieval church of Santa María de los Reyes at the top. Inside the vestibule built to protect it are perhaps Spain’s finest Gothic portals, delicately carved stone images of the Virgin, saints, prophets and angels created in the 14^th century. These and relief carvings on the tympanum over the door and on the pillars at either side still show the polychrome painting that once brightened them. Stroll along the walls behind the church for sweeping views of the valley and the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range, then descend through narrow stone lanes to sample Rioja wines in the coolness of an ancient tunnel. The passages beneath the charming little hotel and restaurant Los Parajes now contain a wine bar, a tiny shop of local food products and a viniculture spa.