Executive chef Ingrid Funes of Cusp Dining & Drinks in La Jolla, Calif., knows a thing or two about cooking: Her mother was a restaurateur in El Salvador, and Funes grew up honing kitchen skills that first caught the attention of famed chef Thomas Keller, and today form the solid basis for brilliant menus featuring Southern California’s freshest coastal ingredients at Cusp.

Wildly creative and stunningly plated favorites include apricot glazed crispy cauliflower with marinated charred vegetable couscous and chimichurri yogurt; pan-seared scallop with coconut black rice, edamame, grilled corn and Thai red curry sauce; and seafood options that include Chef’s Choice Fish served with udon noodles, baby bok choy, hon shimeji mushrooms and creamy roasted garlic soy sauce.

The restaurant offers breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner menus, along with a heady selection of artisan cocktails such as the Peach & Sprig with rosemary-infused Fugu Vodka, lillet and peach liqueur; and the Never Forget, made with Milagro Reposado, fresh lime, agave, Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur and fresh basil.

Sommelier Dawn Schnitzer can help you choose from the cocktail menu or the impressive wine list. We caught up with her during a recent meal at Cusp to ask about pairings, and the stigma some diners fear might be associated with choosing the “wrong” wine.

Global Traveler: What’s a white wine-with-steak lover to do in the face of possible raised eyebrows from fellow diners or restaurant staff?

Dawn Schnitzer: Traditional wine-pairing “rules” have lost their place in [today’s] wonderfully unique culinary scene. The purpose of pairing is to create a complementary balance with food and wine, and there are many ways to do so. First and foremost, eat and drink what you like!

GT: Any guidelines you can share?

Schnitzer: Feeling like fish, but you only like red wine? Getting a grilled NY Strip, but red wines give you a headache? You have plenty of options. Here’s what to consider:

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Focus on the preparation. Is your fish grilled? Is your meat marinated? What sauce is served with your selection? How much fat and spice will be in your entrée? These are the questions you should ask in determining the dominant flavor and weight of your meal. Generally, the weight of your wine should match the weight of your meal.

GT: Can you offer an example?

Schnitzer: A grilled or pan-seared fish has more weight and body than one delicately poached. Light-bodied, low tannin Pinot Noir would be complimentary to most grilled fish, depending on sauce. The richness of a well-marbled cut of prime beef is paired well with a Chardonnay of a similar flavor profile. The creamy and buttery styles of most California-produced Chardonnays, coupled with their natural acidity to mirror the fat, makes it a wonderful option.

GT: Any absolute does or don’ts?

Schnitzer: The exception to most basic notions of wine and food pairing is spicy foods. This pairing should be treated cautiously. A high-alcohol, tannic wine will amplify spice as well as add bitterness and astringency — overwhelming both the food and your tongue. Sweeter, fruitier whites like Riesling and Gewürztraminer tend to be the fail-safe. If you’re only a fan of reds, opt for a low-alcohol, low-tannin, fruit-forward red. Beaujolais and Merlot are great alternatives, especially if you’re looking to branch out from Pinot Noir.