FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Come Face-to-Face with Mountain Gorillas on a Trek in Uganda

by Kristy Alpert

Feb 22, 2024

© HEL080808
| DREAMSTIME

Africa / Uganda

Not a word was spoken as I settled into a cozy spot on the outdoor terrace just outside the main lodge at Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge in Uganda. The air was so still the ice in my single malt seemed to echo off the forest in the distance as it clanked against the glass. I sat among a handful of fellow adventurers, each sitting silently beneath the night sky for one collective goal. Moments earlier, we learned a troop of mountain gorillas had made their way down the mountain near our lodge, and we left our meals to instead sit in eager anticipation of hearing the guttural grunts of the primates below. The chills on my arms never left me that night, even as I made my way up a stone pathway to my personal banda (guestroom). Thankfully, sleep came quickly for me that night as I drifted into dreams of what my next day would bring.

© ANDREW DOYLE
| DREAMSTIME

Like many people who venture to this remote southwestern village, I was in Bwindi with the goal of peacefully seeing the elusive mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. I had long dreamed of what it might feel like to sit eye-to-eye with one of the most beautiful and intelligent animals on the planet, and my moment had finally come to trek through Bwindi Impenetrable National Forest in hopes of making my dream a reality. I joined a small group of seven other hikers early that morning as we strapped on ankle gaiters and verified we each held an authentic gorilla trekking permit (purchased for $700 prior to travel from the Uganda Wildlife Authority, or through a reputable tour operator). The permits are intended to help protect the mountain gorillas and fund gorilla conservation efforts, and they allow a small number of visitors to spend one hour in the company of one family of mountain gorillas.

Permits in hand, we entered the impenetrable forest, unsure whether our journey to find our family of mountain gorillas would take us 30 minutes or seven hours. My guide actively encouraged me to hire a local porter to help me on my hike; and despite my insistence I could do it alone, hearing the $20 fee would create employment opportunities for locals, I gladly welcomed Danny to join me on my trek. He handed me a pair of trekking poles, which I also insisted I wouldn’t need, and we made small talk while sludging through a muddy trail at the base of the forest. It was exactly 30 minutes into the hike when I realized Danny was right about the poles, and my guide was right about Danny. He steered me away from a nest of giant biting safari ants, and literally heaved my body up steep rocks and helped me safely navigate as we crossed over dense brush I later learned were treetops.

The excitement grew as we neared a clearing where we believed the gorillas would be, and that same sense of quiet I had experienced the night before was upon me again as the crunch of fallen leaves serenaded the last hour of the hike. It was Danny who helped me spot the first gorilla in a thick bed of vines, the silverback’s kind amber eyes peeking out through the fronds of a fern. I stayed with him for five minutes before he disappeared deeper into the forest. My heart pounded with excitement after our brief encounter as I trudged deeper through the forest.

© KRISTY ALPERT

I continued on until we came across a young mother with two juvenile gorillas, playing and munching in a clearing. I sat down in an open area to watch the young gorillas teasing and tussling each other, and I was so entranced in their game I didn’t notice another member of their family sneaking up to sit right next to me. I was no more than 4 feet from this gorgeous creature, who seemed to mimic how I sat. My heart pounded out of my chest until I caught sight of his face, and we locked eyes. A sense of calm washed over me as I gazed into his iridescent amber eyes. We stared at each other, both unsure what the other would do and yet both curious about the other. After a few minutes together, he exhaled deeply through his nostrils and walked back to his family, which was when I finally looked up at our group to see them all gawking with jaws dropped.

The moment is one I think about often, and my own jaw now drops as I look back on those pictures my fellow hikers took and relive the incredible memory of trekking through such a mysteriously beautiful forest. Spending time with that family of gorillas was one of the best hours of my life, and I’m thankful for the opportunity to be among the few who can describe the air, the smells and the beauty of Bwindi Impenetrable National Forest.

INFO TO GO
Getting to Bwindi proves no easy feat. I came by car, driving roughly three hours from Queen Elizabeth National Park, where I had spent a few days photographing the tree-climbing lions. The easier route is to fly into Entebbe International Airport and then take a domestic flight or book a charter flight to either Kihihi Airport (north of Bwindi) or Kisora Airport (south of Bwindi). Many tour operators will pick you up from the airport to transport you to your hotel and outfit you with what is necessary for your impending trek.

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Explore Excursions

#globility

Insta Feed
Daily
Apr 22, 2024

Meet 5 Women Shaping the Brixen/South Tyrol Travel Experience

Although a destination’s terrain, cuisine and cultural attributes always draw travelers in, it is often the people they meet that make the trip an enduring memory rather than a box to be checked off. It’s a job responsibility that people working around the Plose and adjoining town of Brixen (in Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige region) take seriously. This is even more true for five women dedicated to introducing visitors to new aspects of the time-honored ski, leisure and hiking mountain destination in the Dolomites.

Exclusive Savings: Cruise Along the Danube River with Global Traveler

Exclusive Sailing with Global Traveler

Daily
Apr 22, 2024

Explore The Chatwal Brand from City to Countryside

The Chatwal brand offers guests the opportunity to explore the city or countryside with its properties The Chatwal, New York and The Chatwal Lodge. Part of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, these two hotels feature spring and summer experiences for all types of travelers.

Cruising
Apr 22, 2024

Your Guide to Holland America Line’s “Nieuw Amsterdam”’s Signature Restaurants

Aboard Holland America Line’s Nieuw Amsterdam, which sails to Canada, the Pacific Coast of the United States, Alaska, Mexico, Panama and the Caribbean, you’ll find no shortage of dining options. But with such a limited amount of time on board, why not head to the best of the best on the ship?

Share Your Travel Preferences with Global Traveler in a Short Survey & Win

Learning more about our readers’ travel habits and preferences ensures Global Traveler delivers the content you desire. As the travel industry has adapted and changed over the last few years, it’s more important than ever to connect. To best meet your short- and long-term travel content needs, please help us!

Slideshow
Apr 22, 2024

7 Reasons to Put Curaçao on Your Travel List

It’s time to start dreaming of your next trip. Here’s some destination inspiration for you. Take a visual journey through Curaçao with us.

Bhutan
Apr 17, 2024

Mindfulness City in Kingdom of Bhutan Unveiled as Future Economic Hub

In front of an audience of 30,000 Kingdom of Bhutan residents and officials, His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck presented his vision for a new economic hub in Bhutan. Located between India to the south and China to the north, Bhutan is one of the most beautiful destinations in the world. Bhutan came late to global tourism. It opened its borders to international visitors in 1974 and, while tourism definitely increased, residents are enduring “light” rush-hour traffic in Thimphu, its capital city, as the only Asian capital without traffic lights.

L’Ermitage Beverly Hills: A Discreet Hideaway Awaits

Nestled between the palm-lined boulevards of residential Beverly Hills, L'Ermitage evokes a sense of refined elegance and unparalleled service. This Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five Diamond haven continues to captivate discerning travelers and Angelenos with its unwavering dedication to personalized hospitality.

eFlyer Reviews
Apr 17, 2024

Amansara Review

It was more than a car journey; it was a transition between worlds. At our first hotel in Siem Reap, huge coaches constantly pulled up outside the lobby to deposit or receive international tour groups; we departed in very different style, in a 1965 black Mercedes limousine once owned by King Sihanouk. The mundanities of mass tourism were left behind. We progressed through the chaotic Cambodian streets in regal comfort and soon arrived at a solid gate.