I was in the lobby of Grootbos Nature Reserve when Jan (the resort’s marketing manager) asked me if I wanted to go shark cage diving. Without hesitation, I said sure! I had heard about the great whites that pass through Walker Bay and off the coast near Kleinbaai Harbour in Gansbaai, South Africa. Boats ferry their excited passengers over to Shark Alley, near Dyer Island and Geyser Rock. Dyer is loaded with a re-growing population of African penguins. The penguin population was decimated in the 19th century as penguin guano was in demand for fertilizer. Penguins laid their eggs in the guano. Geyser Rock is another island and the real reason great whites swing by for snacks. About 60,000 Cape fur seals call this island home, and they are tasty to the sharks. Jan and I took the boat out to Shark Alley with the rest of the adventure seekers — a mixture of Germans, Americans, Italians and South Africans. Two girls on the boat were making their third sharking trip (they had tried others around the Cape) and were determined to see a great white. The other trips had brought them nothing, but this was Shark Alley. And they were with master sharkers — me and Jan! As soon as we anchored the boats, we saw a shark. I thought it would take an hour or so to attract them with chum, but no. Jan and I wasted no time getting into our wet suits. The others were in a daze, and we wanted to be in the water first. Into the cage I went. It was tied to the side of the boat and you had to climb in. The instructor was telling me how to get in, but then she said, “Or you can do it that way.” I was in. Jan next, and soon we were in. The others soon followed, and graceful great whites were soon swimming by the cage.
Once we were all in, the “baiter” and the “chummer” began their magic, drawing the sharks closer. The baiter tossed a fish head on a rope and brought it closer to the cage. Of course, the sharks followed. “Divers down right,” the captain would say. The cage divers held their breath and viewed the sharks — no tanks or snorkels needed, just a mask, wet suit and a weight to help keep you down. When you were out of breath, you bounced back up for air.
Jan and I smiled and gave the thumbs up when a 20-foot and a 15-foot great white swam by and tried for the bait. A great experience and just one of many things you can do at Grootbos! — Fran Gallagher, publisher and CEO
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