You don’t have to read many of my blog posts before you realize that 1) I enjoy eating out and trying new restaurants and 2) I do a lot of No. 1 in Portland, Ore. My life and work don’t take me around the world (though I love to travel), so, except for a major trip once a year or so and regular trips to visit family in Chicago, most of my shorter jaunts are within the confines of the Pacific Northwest. (Not a small chunk of territory, actually.) Recently I’ve been fortunate to get up to Portland several times, and each visit provided opportunities to dine at just a few of the hundreds of restaurants within the metro area, and not one has disappointed. (See here, here and here for reports on those experiences.) I think that what I enjoy about so many of these great little places is that they may be found all over the city in a host of inviting neighborhoods, each with a unique character but all places where the residents fully invest in their corner of town and support their neighborhood businesses. True, some of these restaurants and their chefs have garnered buzz from critics and foodies beyond their local borders, bringing customers from all over town and beyond. Nevertheless, they retain that feel of a gathering place for the locals, and I’d be willing to bet that even without the outside attention, most would survive quite well on the patronage of their neighbors alone. And, honestly, the food really is great, the prices more than reasonable, and menus accommodate those with special dietary needs or restrictions while drawing upon the bounty of local, sustainably grown or harvested products. Earlier this week my husband and I met daughter Jenny and her boyfriend, Josh, at Firehouse Restaurant in the Northeast Portland neighborhood of Woodlawn. The building, Firehouse 29, served at the center of its community from the early 20th century until the early 1950s, when the newer, larger fire engines made its compact size obsolete. It housed a number of businesses (legal and not-so-much) until the restaurant opened there in 2008. It presents a lovely ediface and, inside, the exposed brick walls and large wooden timbers provide a warm ambience. The downstairs seating looks directly in to the kitchen, dominated by a wood-fired pizza oven, rotisserie and grill, while a large dining room upstairs can accommodate groups and special events. A circular, stone-paved courtyard outside promises pleasant alfresco dining during warm weather,
and out front the original engine opening, fitted with an overhead garage door, brings the outside indoors. The menu, influenced by “the simple, straightforward approach to the food of southern Italy” offers small plates, pizzas, salads, mains and sides along with house cocktails, wines by the glass, beer on tap and bottled or canned. House-made sodas and iced teas vary from week to week (I enjoyed my huckleberry soda very much), or one can order from a select list of liquors. We opted for the three-course dinner option. For about $30, one gets a small plate item, a salad and either any pizza or any entrée. I opted for the fried cauliflower (salty, firm, not at all greasy) with a lovely, creamy lemon crème fraîche; the house salad with fresh greens, currants, hazelnuts and Humboldt Fog blue cheese dressed in a light vinaigrette; and the handmade ricotta gnudi with nettles, leek scapes, mint and walnuts with a ricotta “salata”
— wonderfully light on the stomach but extraordinarily satisfying. Harry and Josh both ordered the bruschetta with a delectable country pork paté, apple jelly and wild watercress as their first course, while Jenny chose lighter-than-air arancini filled with salami, basil and mozzarella. All three chose pizza for their main course; Harry’s house-made fennel sausage with onion and fresh mozzarella, which I also tried, offered great taste on a crispy, perfectly baked crust.
Service was prompt, friendly but unobtrusive, and we enjoyed the relaxed, cozy atmosphere. Yes, another pleasant evening in one of Portland’s many great neighborhood spots. — Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
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